Newbee welder for sml tractor and shop use

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I am new to welding and have been lurking for quite a few months.  I have read, read, read and asked the local welding supply shops and now have an idea of what I want to get started in welding.  I have some knowledge of welding from a material and engineering point of view but no actual welding experience.  I have a few acres, 1/4 mile long drive, and lots of work around the house.  I have a 33 hp compact utility tractor with loader and attachments to help which has been invaluable.  Being a do it yourself kind of guy and an engineer I like to tinker and have some ideas, some original but mostly from others, about how to improve upon/make some tractor three point hitch attachments and modifications.  So the question, what size welder would be appropriate?  I will be primarily welding 1/8” to ¼” mild steel material with 3/8” at times and most likely ½” max.  I want the ability to weld the ½” when required but multi pass may be acceptable.  The heavier material would be limited but strong welds are a must since this will be for rippers, bucket reinforcement, etc. and will be structurally critical.  I also want the ability to do body repair and fabrication down the road.  I like Lincoln (from an engineering support point of view not welder experience or equipement) and three of the four LWS carry Lincoln and have generally recommended the Power Mig 180C.  Is this enough machine?  I like the portability, continuous voltage control and the ability to tap into a “dryer outlet” if required.  The new machines have a very rugged drive assembly, all components are metal, aluminum for most and a good looking wire support path.  The one remaining LWS carries Miller, ESAB, and Thermal Arc and can get Lincoln has recommended the 210 amp machines.  At this size the portability is more of a factor and most have tapped voltage.  The ESAB Migmaster 203 has 12, the Miller Millermatic 210 has 7, the Lincoln Power Mig 210 has 7, and the Thremal Arc Fabricator 210 has Fine/Course Voltage Output (not sure what that is).  I personally prefer to stay with a major manufacturer so should I consider the Thermal Arc?Note that I have a sub panel in the garage that I can tap into for a 220 volt outlet I need to calc the max amperage but it is for a pool and I believe 40 amp is not a problem and 50 is probable.  If required I can change out the supply line to the sub panel.Recommendations/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks...Derek
Reply:give up on mig if u plan to do 1/2.get a lincoln ac/dc 225 tombstone.about 500 bucks.it will weld anything you have and if you decide later on that yo must have a mig then you still have some money.KISS...KEEP IT SAFE STUPID
Reply:Originally Posted by TIGBOYgive up on mig if u plan to do 1/2.get a lincoln ac/dc 225 tombstone.about 500 bucks.it will weld anything you have and if you decide later on that yo must have a mig then you still have some money.
Reply:Well the bad news is, just about every machine/brand you mentioned will fill the bill for what you want. So now it's boils down to the ugly world of choices  .. You did highlight "critical" welds on 1/2" material, and I agree on the importance of good sound welds. However unless you are welding for hire, pressed into a production environment, or building roofs over day care centers, there are many other ways of achieving "decent" welds on 1/2" minus materials than pure raw power. Doing work for yourself leaves a lot of room in the choice of machines. Breaking a ripper is more of a learning experience than it is a catastrophe. If I had to buy again, it would be in the 210 and up class, rather than the 175, but I believe (opinion only) that I could do everything you've mentioned with a new 180 of any major brand.
Reply:What I think you need are 200 amps.  I would build a ripper with stick, but use the mig for a lot of other things.  You can weld 1/2" with stick multipass, or with  Mig if you have good joint prep and lots of amps.  It seems duty cycle wouldn't be a problem for you.  If you buy either one, being a little creative will get you by.  Both would be the way to go.  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Get the Most power you can afford..You can always turn them down...Little power dont go up very far.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:For 3/8 to 1/2 inch steel a 200 amp mig machine is undersized in my opinion. I would go for a 225-250 amp stick welder, ac/dc prefered, and when you get good with it get  large 120 volt or small 240 volt mig for your thinner work. Again just my opinion I don't like seeing people using a mig welder to learn to weld. Once your good at stick and gas welding learning another process is a piece of cake for most folks.
Reply:Let add one more thing you might want take a course at your local community college before dropping money on a welder. That you'll get to try different processes before send money on something you might not like.
Reply:Originally Posted by Seven GablesI understand that for structural steel applications (>1/4" material) that stick is the way to go but I want to start with MIG.  I may be swayed but most of my welding will be 1/8" to 1/4".  My perception of the relative learning curves, and mostly the ability to do light gauge/body work is why I am leaning towards MIG.  Maybe a Tombstone and a 140 mig is the ticket?Thanks for the input...Derek
Reply:I'm going to put in my vote for the Lincoln PM255C. I have welded everything from body panels to 1/2" plate.As Zap said it. Buy the biggest you can afford. You can turn it down. In the case of the 255C it welds great when turned down or all the way up.Patriot Performance AutoLincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln AC-225 StickVictor Journeyman O/AQuincy QT-5 Compressor
Reply:With no prior welding experience, and very little likely use, I would say that a 175 mig would be fine. You can do multi-pass on 1/2" all day long with that. The price, power requirements, and size associated with something like a 255A welder make this a... retarded choice for part time hobby welding. You can always get a used buzz box for like $100 at a garage sale for really thick, nasty welds. And for dirty steel on farm equipment, the stick would be a better choice.
Reply:Sandy,I think that you have put it very well about breaking a ripper would be part of the learning curve.  I am leaning towards the 210 range, Lincoln or possibly Miller but as I explained the LWS have been stearing me to the 180.  I wonder why as I felt they were light.Thanks...Derek
Reply:Originally Posted by tresiLet add one more thing you might want take a course at your local community college before dropping money on a welder. That you'll get to try different processes before send money on something you might not like.
Reply:Originally Posted by Seven GablesSandy,I think that you have put it very well about breaking a ripper would be part of the learning curve.  I am leaning towards the 210 range, Lincoln or possibly Miller but as I explained the LWS have been stearing me to the 180.  I wonder why as I felt they were light.Thanks...Derek
Reply:I have had a Weldmanpower Lincoln G7 gas for 18 years.  Its 225 amps AC, 210 DC with CV.  I have used it to make part of my living.  Only in the last year when I have picked up more in the welding business (less in the auto truck repair) did I need a bigger machine.  I have a LN-25 wire feeder to go along with it.  I have fixed a lot of stuff, some of it pretty big.  I ran into a snag when I started gouging with it.  Just not enough kahunas.  This is why I said 200 amps should do it.    Multipass with a mig is a touch and go thing.  You can make beautiful welds, but have no penatration.  This is why I recomended stick for the big stuff.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Seven What ya need to do is get a machine with plenty of amps! Like Zap said when you need more a small machine is limited.Also a MIG welder is not just for GMAW like Lorenzo posted you can run other wire's like 71-elite dual shield, We use it inside and outside as well provided not real windy. Also go with the wire welder you won't regret it! and here is an example; I have a Miller Bobcat engine drive 225 amp machine and a Ln-25 wire feeder,Also I can stick weld or make 220 power. The down side is Bobcat 2400.00 and Ln-25 1200.00 which are prices from 7 years ago!Last edited by Dipper Welder64; 03-03-2007 at 11:28 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by lorenzoThis is not necessarily true.... Most structural production shops use some manner of the MIG process for prefabbed assemblies. SMAW..... is designed and used as more of a site process where you can not control the environment conditions, mainly wind. FCAW is and has been used more frequently as a means for welding in the field. I myself will either SMAW or FCAW for site work that is done outside. I like to use dual-shield or inside site work if I'm tying into columns or beams. So don't discount MIG as a up to 1/4" process....
Reply:Zap, Lorenzo, Patriot …Thanks for all of the input.  I truly value the advice given as I feel like a kid in a toy store and have been trying to “settle down” enough to make some intelligent choices.  That said I will explain some of my thoughts.  Please bear with the length of my ramblings.I would love to get the Lincoln Power Mig 255C.  Everything about it looks good, specs and features but I have the dilemma of not necessarily what I can afford but what I can justify.  Like Rojodiablo stated I am going to be a hobby welder.  On the other hand I HATE spending good money for something that is not capable of doing what I need.  I have a shop full of tools and any tool I use/used a lot is professional grade: Skill worm drive circular saw, Milwaukee drill & Sawsall, Bosch miter saw, etc…  On the other hand tools for a one time/very limited use are cheap: Sears, Black and Decker, Skill, etc.  I know, I know, I need to get a handle on how much I am going to be welding…Back to my dilemma, although I have been leaning towards the Lincoln Power Mig 215 (Sandy, I agree about PM 215 over the Millermatic esp. the 115 receptacle, output range, drive roll and support just seem to me to be better on the PM 215), I would be ecstatic if the 180C would be good for my needs since I could save a sizable amount and purchase a good chop saw, etc.  But, I don’t think I will be happy with it in the long run.  So if I go with the PM 215 I am also concerned about the tapped voltage control, the 215 has 7 taps.  Both the 180C and 255C use a continuous voltage control.  How much of an issue is it using a tapped control?  Will it limit the adjustability? Or only be a problem on thin metal?  Or not that big a deal?  I am torn.  I WANT the 255C but I don’t think it is justified.  I am concerned about the tapped voltage being an obstacle for a newbee/perfectionist.Thanks for the advise …Derek
Reply:I got to try out a ESAB MigMaster 253 today.  WOW, MIG welding is definitely cool  (or should I say hot!).  I am completely hooked.  I have been reading the web, books and purchased two instructional videos from Wall Mountain but never expected it to be as smooth as it was to start out.  After some instruction and demonstration of the machine and proper technique I was laying down some OK looking welds.  Unfortunately the penetration was also just OK.  I definitely need lots of practice and instruction.  Only burned back the electrode once.  Got a few good passes on ¼” stock and got to play with the voltage taps and wire speed.  I am beginning to understand the adjustments I had only read about till now.  The ESAB has similar specs to the Lincoln Power Mig 215 that I was considering:ESAB MigMaster 253 40-250 amps12 Tapped Voltage20% Duty - 250 amps30% Duty - 200 amps60% Duty - 140 ampsPower Mig 215: 30 - 250 amps7 Tapped Voltage20% Duty - ?30% Duty - 215 amps40% Duty - 190 amps60% Duty - 170 ampsAfter my play day I have a few more questions.  I would appreciate if you guys could let me know your thoughts.I noticed the difference in the weld when changing just one position of the 12 tap ESAB.  Is the 7 tapped voltage of the Power Mig 215 a concern since it has fewer positions?  The ESAB seemed to be very smooth.  Is this characteristic of all MIG welders in this power range?  Does anyone have experience with the ESAB 253?  How does the ESAB stack up?Again thanks for all of the great advice.…Derek
Reply:I noticed the difference in the weld when changing just one position of the 12 tap ESAB. Is the 7 tapped voltage of the Power Mig 215 a concern since it has fewer positions?
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyJust lookng at the stats there, lincoln looks like a slightly hardier machine. But would you ever get around to pushing the limits of either one? I doubt it. It'll be interesting to see what you come up with.