A couple questions and general thoughts needed

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Me and my dad need to modify a trailer by shortening it. The frame is an I-beam 1/4 thick. As far a rewelding it goes, i'm thinking it'll need to be a v joint with a vertical uphand 6010 root and a 7018 cap and a half inch plate over top to reinforce the seam. should get the job done, right?My dad is worried that the strength of the weld will be compromised if we grind it smooth to allow the plate to sit flat, so he wants to groove out the plate so it fits over the cap of the weld. I think that would weaken the plate too much but i would like to know your guy's opinion on this. Also any input on how we're approaching this would be great.And just for interest sake, we've discussed doing this with Mig but neither of us think it'll be strong enough, I'd like to know the real answer and maybe some facts on how strong Mig welding really can be.
Reply:There is no reason it would not be strong enough w/mig. Sometime I weld quick connect couplings on different implements used on a Cat 928 Loader. I've never had any problems with them not being strong enough. I work for a large garbage company and the loader is used daily and hard at our transfer station. We have a spear that is 14' long and a tamper that is 10' long. Both have been mig welded completely.What type of trailer is it? "Every choice you make will effect at least one other person"
Reply:Shortening the frame should depend on where you are cutting the frame at, what type of frame it is, how many axles you have, and what load is going to be on the trailer. Could you just cut the end off the trailer and reposition the axles. This would remove the needed to have welds near the center on the trailer. Even if it required you to weld a near end plate back on, it should be as strong as the original weld. You could even cut the front and rear bunks off, cut the needed amount off both ends and reweld the ends back on. this would allow you to leave the axle on and in the right position. I would not cut any where near the middle of the trailer.As to welding rods and procedure. Unless you are using dual shielded mig wire, I would go with your original thoughts and use the 7018 rod. I wouldn't bother with the 6010 myself. The reinforcement plate isn't a bad idea either. I would grind the weld down on the I-beam and weld the plate on. I would not grind the plate to allow for the weld on the beam, This would make the reinforcement a total waste.If you could, post some pics of the trailer and a little more info on the plan.Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:If youre gonna v the groove out, mig will handle that no problem.  just make sure to pause at the toes on the vertical up (slight weave)                                                                                    ces before starting.Various GrindersVictor Journeyman torch200cf Acet. 250cf oxygenLincoln 175 plus/alpha2 gunLincoln v205t tigLincoln 350mpEsab 650 plasmaWhen you can get up in the morning, Its a good day.Live each day like its your last.
Reply:As was already said.....7018 all the way, grind and plate. No worries. MIG, would be fine as long as the machine was big enough...no 120v MIGs. If I was having to do this outside, I'd go with stick...in a shop, MIG. Should be an easy deal either way. And never notch out a reinforcing plate....if you do, you may as well leave it off completely.
Reply:Thanks guys, I don't have any pics of the trailer, but its a triple axle 38 foot semi trailer for  hauling shipping containers full of steelAs for a mig welder, we have a lincoln 215 readily avaliable as some ESAB 400 amp welder if nesecary but i doubt they would be.I didn't think notching the plate was a good idea thanks for the input DDA52.I think i might just do a square joint using a 7018 both sides, as my text book says this is ok on material up to 1/4 welded both sides. Anyone have a reason why this might not work?I'll try to get a picture soon if i can.
Reply:how long is the trailer. ?Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:What is the size of the main frame beam? And where do you plan on cutting this?_________________Chris
Reply:Just a few notes.  There was a thread a while ago about adding to a truck frame.   Your idea sounds pretty good.  I too would go with the 7018.  If you have enough of a welder, Mig will do it too.  Plates should NOT be welded fore and aft.  ONLY top and bottom.  If you weld the plate to the frame straight up, it will create a stress point that you didn't have before.  The cut in the frame should be on a 45* angle.  This gives more area to weld and less stress on the frame.  Plates could be cut on a 45* angle too, then welded all the way around.  Plate everything, don't weld the ends if they are square even on the flanges.ONLY MY Opinion.  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RJust a few notes.  There was a thread a while ago about adding to a truck frame.   Your idea sounds pretty good.  I too would go with the 7018.  If you have enough of a welder, Mig will do it too.  Plates should NOT be welded fore and aft.  ONLY top and bottom.  If you weld the plate to the frame straight up, it will create a stress point that you didn't have before.  The cut in the frame should be on a 45* angle.  This gives more area to weld and less stress on the frame.  Plates could be cut on a 45* angle too, then welded all the way around.  Plate everything, don't weld the ends if they are square even on the flanges.ONLY MY Opinion.  David
Reply:Lorenzo,You are correct about the I beam thing.  Thanks for taking the time to find the thread.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.