What is this stuff ??

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Just doing a search on aluminum welding and came accross this web site. I thought I would post it here and see whats said. (Lots of bad Im sure) It may have been talked about before on this site, but the search here did not show me anything. Maybe HF should sell this stuff. HTS-2000 http://www.aluminumrepair.com/aluminum_repair.asp
Reply:I'm not impressed.. Not very often you break just the head off a bolt.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:ya zap and what was that a grade 2 bolt
Reply:hey 40bowtie,I hope to provide some information on this product and other makers of this type welding rod. I have used a similar rod, HTS-735, obtained from Charles Kimbrough in Hurst, Texas, for several years now. It works very well, is strong, and does very nice repairs on aluminum, cast or wrought, and what is often called "pot metal", and is very easy to learn to use. Pot metal is nothing more than zinc, tin, & other associated scrap metals that is cast. In addition, most repairs can be done with propane. As with any aluminum welding, cleanliness of the weld area is priority. I initially tested this rod with many different applications, ie. carburetor baseplate lugs, alum. pump castings, and all "pot metal" repairs. It will perform as advertised, and the best results will be obtained by simply doing some practice on scrap. I weld alum. with MIG & TIG mostly, but there has been occasion, this rod has done what I couldn't do with a TIG or MIG. You would be amazed how much money can be made with repairing all those crappy die cast things people buy. Don't let hearsay affect your thought to try a rod such as this. If you've never done it or used it, don't knock it......DennyComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:Originally Posted by yorkiepaphey 40bowtie,I hope to provide some information on this product and other makers of this type welding rod. I have used a similar rod, HTS-735, obtained from Charles Kimbrough in Hurst, Texas, for several years now. It works very well, is strong, and does very nice repairs on aluminum, cast or wrought, and what is often called "pot metal", and is very easy to learn to use. Pot metal is nothing more than zinc, tin, & other associated scrap metals that is cast. In addition, most repairs can be done with propane. As with any aluminum welding, cleanliness of the weld area is priority. I initially tested this rod with many different applications, ie. carburetor baseplate lugs, alum. pump castings, and all "pot metal" repairs. It will perform as advertised, and the best results will be obtained by simply doing some practice on scrap. I weld alum. with MIG & TIG mostly, but there has been occasion, this rod has done what I couldn't do with a TIG or MIG. You would be amazed how much money can be made with repairing all those crappy die cast things people buy. Don't let hearsay affect your thought to try a rod such as this. If you've never done it or used it, don't knock it......Denny
Reply:Hey Weldordie,You have to do a bit of practicing with some scrap, especially the type of material you want to repair. I can only surmise you had the pulley to its' melting point before the rod was at its' melting point. The method to get the bonding of each is to get the rod to melt just prior to the pulley going soft. It is similar to soldering with flux-core solder on copper. You have to get the rod to begin its melt to flow onto the pulley and it becomes a matter of controlling the flame on both. By moving the flame from the rod to the pulley and vise versa, you will get to the meld of both. I would venture to say that the pulley was a die cast pulley, and it would have a much lower melting point, thus getting the rod to melt first would work properly. An aluminum pulley has a much higher melting point than die cast. Hope that helps a bit....DennyComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:Originally Posted by yorkiepapHey Weldordie,You have to do a bit of practicing with some scrap, especially the type of material you want to repair. I can only surmise you had the pulley to its' melting point before the rod was at its' melting point. The method to get the bonding of each is to get the rod to melt just prior to the pulley going soft. It is similar to soldering with flux-core solder on copper. You have to get the rod to begin its melt to flow onto the pulley and it becomes a matter of controlling the flame on both. By moving the flame from the rod to the pulley and vise versa, you will get to the meld of both. I would venture to say that the pulley was a die cast pulley, and it would have a much lower melting point, thus getting the rod to melt first would work properly. An aluminum pulley has a much higher melting point than die cast. Hope that helps a bit....Denny
Reply:I think that stuff looks great. Those half inch peices didn't break after hammering them in half. I'll have to try it. Thanks for the link.
Reply:The price is not that cheap for me to try. If you have any luck and deeper pockets than me please come back here and let us know your findings.To me it kind of put me in mind of JB weld. Good stuff for some uses, but if you read the back of the JB weld package about Joe Blow fixing his 10 ton bottle jack ... Well you know what I mean.
Reply:Just another note. In a picture on the web side it looks like a guy welding a wing on an airplane ? Maybe thats why the DC-10 had problems. Just kidding.
Reply:ok..... did I read that right 65.00 a pound ?????
Reply:Thats right. Not in my budget.