It aint pretty but it'll work

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Tooks some advice from my last post and here are the results. Although I could have done a better job so that the gap would not have been a large, I was able to bridge the gaps with small spot welds.  Also, by spot welding and moving down, the metal is not showing any signs of warping.Will this gap close if I continue spot welding between the gaps?Thanks
Reply:Looks like ya got a 1/2" gap there.  You makin metal!If you can get behind it, a strip behind the gap would save you a whole bunch O time.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Agreed, trying to fill that sucker will probably get frustrating friend!Have a Jeep Cherokee?  Click Here!
Reply:I can take it out now that the rould cowl hat is positioned and have an experienced welder show me how to close this gap. I just don't think I'm that skilled and...although it should be frustrating, its was going well untill I ran out of gas. Hmmmm...and here I thought I was getting somewhere.Sigh!
Reply:weld's are what make it stay, grinders are what make it pretty.  A old welder once told me , if both pieces were in the same county, he could make it hold.  you've got a good start, just keep at it , slow and easy, be a good experience  for you. by the time you get done you'll see why you need to make it fit a little closer   papathe gorilla that made it hold Ranger 8  15 yrs old SP150 mig 25 yrs old several Victor sets Snap On 130 mig  25 yrs old Lincoln 225 buzz box SA200  F163  78 mdl they all work just added a Idealarc 250/250
Reply:If you can jump over it you can fill it.  Next time you'll make a better fit.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:i agree... it CAN be done, but it's gonna get the best of you (and probably your consumables) by the time you are done. you may not want to get out the scissors, tin-snips and a chunck of scrap now, but you will wish you did later. take the time and do it right the first time. you can either use your snips to make it right now, or your grinder to make it right later. it's your project, your toys, so you can do it however you want, but i would suggest cutting a piece that will fit inside the gap.Later,Andy
Reply:SO what are we looking at here??
Reply:I'd just turn my welder on down, fill it up, then grind it down.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:Use a TIG filler rod It´ll help you outMy Babies: HF Drill pressHF Pipe Bender3   4.5" Black and Decker angle grindersLincoln Electric PROMIG 175that´s it!
Reply:Decided to follow the suggestions and experience from the board....I cut out most of the bridges that I welded and added more metal. The pic shows the small piece I added on the right and the lower piece is already welded in.The second pic shows both pieced welded with one hole in the middle that needs a small piece also added. Im tired tonight. Closed about 80% of the gap with the small stips and will add the last section tommorrow night. Looks better and is very strong. Also easier to fill any holes...ThanksPic 1 Pic 2Oh, and by the way...its a 66 Ford Mustang I'm working on. I've never done metal work so its been a great experience so far. This is the cowl below the vents where the hood goes for those that may remember. This piece was natorious for rusting due to not being painted by Ford from the facotry and leaves, dirt and water clogging this area causing severe rust. Then water enters the car and the floors begin to rust...These cars rust from the inside out. Glad to see Ford has improve on this design flaw...LOLLast edited by sunpacceo; 11-27-2007 at 08:53 PM.
Reply:I fully feel your pain. My 68 Charger has two air intakes under the dash that bring fresh air in from atop the hood at the base of the windshield.  It was a trap for leaves, dirt and a great path for water.  I had the same issue but was able to seal it up without quite as much damage as what you're dealing with.  I had to replace the floor pans though from years of standing water (prior to my purchase).Good luck.  Glad to see you bringing the ole girl back to life.MichaelMillermatic 25115" Rockwell Drill Press10" Logan Lathe5hp - 2-stage 80 Gallon CompressorHome Made Sand / Soda Blaster
Reply:May I suggest that you get a piece of copper or brass to hold in back of the gap, this will allow you to fill the gap much easier, it's an old body trick.braize or solder a handle to it to hold on to as it will get hot.Life is tuff,so be sharp  lincoln sp 100  cutmaster101  miller bobcat  miller 250 mig  $thousands in snapon
Reply:Here are the before and aftersl...I ground down and cut out the bridge welds and added even more metal to fil the gap.Starting to look pretty and learning alot about working with the metal....its really alot of fun.Im also becomming a grinding fool...any suggestion on what tools are best to grind down these weld and make the job easier? I'm using an Hitachi 4 " angle grinder with the wheels that came with it.
Reply:Im also becomming a grinding fool...any suggestion on what tools are best to grind down these weld and make the job easier? I'm using an Hitachi 4 " angle grinder with the wheels that came with it.
Reply:Originally Posted by asemasterMay I suggest that you get a piece of copper or brass to hold in back of the gap, this will allow you to fill the gap much easier, it's an old body trick.braize or solder a handle to it to hold on to as it will get hot.
Reply:I've got 3 like this that I use from 1" to 3" quick loc pads on; http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...MT4NO=33794006Standard Abrasive and 3M make enough different discs to make you dizzy, there's something for every job. These and die grinders with assorted stones and carbide bits get most of the small stuff and detail work. For everything bigger than 3" I go to a standard 4 1/2" - 7" angle grinder.Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT