Need help with old Lincoln buzz box

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I'm a noobie to the site.  I bought a working old Powercraft (Wards) rebranded Lincoln buzzbox 180 last week.  I don't think I did too bad because I got the welder for $30.  But the leads are in poor shape and need replaced.  When I opened it up this is how the lead was hooked up.  I plan on getting this corrected before use.  My question is when I hook up my new lead do I need a special bolt to connect it.  Like brass or something.  Or should I just use a regular machine bolt.  Also I have seen that the new Lincoln 225 ac have # 4 leads.  Some of the charts I have seen say to use #1 leads.  I can get #2 welding cable for around $1.69 per foot.  If I keep my leads less than 25' would #2 be large enough?   Also is there some type of lube I can use on the range switch?  It is kind of stiff when changing ranges.Thanks!
Reply:I'm fairly certain you can use di-electric grease for the contactor switch. It might also do you well to take some emery cloth to the actual contact points and just clean them up a bit to make sure you're getting positive contact.
Reply:#2 should be fine for that distance. Having the connection clean where you attach the new cable is more important than the type of bolt. Miller just uses steel bolts. About the range switch, I would lube the pivot and clean the contacts as suggested. Just keep the lube off the contacts- and loose that cable clamp! A good crimp on cable end is the way to go.
Reply:I installed a trio of these in my old Hobart buzzbox several years ago.  They really work well.  Just to make sure they never get loose at the conduit nuts I used JB Weld epoxy on the backsides, encapsulating the nuts and plastic and filleted out onto the surrounding metal.  Works great.http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2353...Connector.html
Reply:Are you having trouble with the machine.  Its old but nothing looks that bad.  JohnSMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:If you replace the leads, you should keep the connectors as few as possible and use connectors that have transitional coatings if possible. Most of the connectors designed for these situations are copper and/or coated for bi-metallic use. Having several dissimilar metals only complicates things in the rare event of a loose connection. If the connections stay tight with little to no air gap, no problem. If they are less than ideal then there can be problems.  A little tad of no-ox on the connections can't hurt either. As for coating the contacts on the range selector, there are goods and bads. It's a user call. A light coating of dielectric lube can keep the range selctor moving freely, somewhat isolated from humid air and cuts down on corrosion. On the negative side it (lube) tends to collect dust and grit and turn hard. As long as you know you can deal with it. (for the purposes of this application dielectric means non-conductive/non-insulating  )
Reply:The bulk head connector like Beezer recommended would add a nice touch but it doesn't look like your lead off your transformer is long enough and you would would have to add a jumper.  In this case the proper way to fix it would be to run your new cable through the hole in the case and then crimp the correct size lug for that cable on the end and connect it to the transformer lug. Clean the transformer lug with some emory or sand paper and then connect it up real tight with a bolt a flat and a lock washer and nut. The bolt does not have to be brass because you are dealing with low frequency AC.  A couple wraps of Scotch 88 would not be a bad idea after you get it tight. Electricians have a crimping tool with long handles that will put some serious pressure on the lug if the correct die is installed, and that is what you want. If you have a friend with this tool you are in the money. Your local electricial supply house will be able to supply you with the right size lug and may even let you borrow a crimping tool. In all my years doing electricial work I have never seen anyone use a cable clamp in place of a copper split bolt. I am still laughing about that one
Reply:PS you got a deal on that welder.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldgaultAre you having trouble with the machine.  Its old but nothing looks that bad.  John
Reply:I too would clean the contacts on the back of the selector switch, but I wouldn't lube the contacts.KRS***************************************Lincoln AC225 stick welderLincoln HD100 WeldPak flux core wire feed welderThree of the cheapest grinders money can buy
Reply:Originally Posted by 6010PS you got a deal on that welder.
Reply:I asked the same questions over on the AWS board.  One poster said that I might be able to use smaller leads like #4's because of the duty cycle.  Is it OK to go that small? http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/topic_show.pl?tid=14073
Reply:Originally Posted by whitedogoneI asked the same questions over on the AWS board.  One poster said that I might be able to use smaller leads like #4's because of the duty cycle.  Is it OK to go that small? http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/topic_show.pl?tid=14073
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyHere's one chart. There are a lot out there. Some will vary. Remember the footages include the total loop. http://www.generalcable.com/NR/rdonl...Ty_RHH_RHW.pdf
Reply:scrap out the old copper leads they will probaly pay for half of the new leads. #1 copper is bringing almost $3/pound around here.just a though.you gat a good deal on the welder, there is way more than that in the copper windingsG3miller... 225g, s32p, 250x, 304, 12vs, MSW41     victor o/a thermal dynamics cutmaster 50 lenco panel spotter        hobart hf-boxG3 Farms.....raising cattle, hay, kids and hell, ...oh yeah I'm a fire sprinkler contractor by trade.