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I am quite familiar with the old process of annealing aluminum where you first soot up the part, then heat it with a neutral flame until the soot goes away. But I was wondering if anyone could tell me at exactly what temp the part will be when the soot disappears?I was trying to come up with a way to measure it, but that's not real easy. An infrared thermometer will not work on the bare aluminum once the soot is gone. My next thought was make a spring clip to hold the tip of a thermocouple tight against the inside wall of the part (I'm doing tubing), but that will be getting the inside wall rather than the outside...I just want to compare to the charts that show how long to soak at a given temp and get a little more scientific about it all...Thanks!
Reply:You can get "Temp Sticks" at your LWS..All diffrent colors that melt at diffrent temps..Why don't the gun work?I used to use one on the intake of the dragster and that's bare alum....I'd go from the headers to the intake after a run and it worked every time.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Some infrared guns don't work well on aluminum because of it's low emissivity. The darker the material, the higher the emissivity. I've got a non adjustable one I use to read the tires on the race car, but it won't read accurately on stainless or aluminum. I have a more expensive adjustable one that works for brighter metals.That stated, Zap is right, Temp Sticks or Tempilaq (paint) are available at your welding distributor. Most alloys of aluminum are fully annealed at between 650 to 775 degrees F at between one and two hours soaking per inch of metal thickness. (i.e., 2" section of 6061 T6 would take 4 hours at 775 degrees to become fully annealed) Ref: "Welding Kaiser Aluminum, First Edition, 1967. (yes, I'm the original owner)I r 2 a perfessional |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:52:16