Restoration project

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I am starting a restoration project on a 66 mustang, and I need a welder to do some small stuff18ga sheet metal 1/8" steeland some tubingI was looking at the Hobart handler 140 until a welder I know told me he could get the Millermatic 140 for only a few buck more.I have taken some classes, but that was 10 years + ago.  I plan on attending a ROP class as a refresher before I start on my car, as well as lots of practice in the garage before I get that welder torch anywhere near my car.  I am pretty sure the Miller will handle the sheet metal, but what would you guys recommend for a project like this:http://www.griggsracing.com/gallery/...er%20to%20.jpghttp://www.griggsracing.com/gallery/...ide%20view.jpgJust curious I may end up having a shop do the suspension work.Last edited by 01ragtop; 04-27-2008 at 08:56 PM.Reason: spelling
Reply:Welcome to the forum, I'm sure you will get a lot of help and learn a lot.There have been a number of threads about the disadvantages of small 110v migs. The sticky at the top of the group lists some and if you do a search you will find a bunch more. Several with in the last 4-6 weeks, in fact.Here's a couple to get you started.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=20812http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=20840Basically for sheetmetal and 1/8" the 110v's are ok. If you try and do much more you will find them somewhat limiting. To do the things that you show in the picts, I would suggest that you look at a 220v machine in the 180amp class as a good general starter mig. The 110v machines just won't have the power for that sort of work. I believe you will quickly find a need for more power even if you don't decide to do the suspension work yourself. Hobart, Miller's and  Lincoln's are all good machines. I would stay away from the cheap import machines.Good luck and keep us posted.Last edited by DSW; 04-27-2008 at 10:14 PM.
Reply:Practice oxy/fuel welding, also.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Thanks for the quick replies.  Sure am glad I posted before I bought.  Tanglediver,Thanks, I need that for sure.  I braze on a pretty regular basis, but haven't welded with oxy/fuel in a long time.
Reply:do you plan to build your own control arms? which i am in the process of doing on my 66...or are you just talking about the tube where the coilovers mount to above the upper control arm?if your just fabbing the mount for the coilover a 110 will probably be ok with some practice.if your making your own control arms, and coilover system that should all be tig welded.my 2 cents, if your welding suspension stuff, on a car, especially thats going to be driven hard (which i assume you will be doing if your putting in coilovers) you better be very comftorable with your welding skills.
Reply:No I am not building my own control arms.  The suspension in the pictures is prefabbed.  All I have to do is weld it to the frame.As far as being comfortable with my welding skill and welding a suspension, well......  I still have about a year or so before this will happen.  If I were doing it today, someone elso would do it.Dan
Reply:thats cool. looks like an nice setup, im kinda curious where where the square tubing ties back to?It looks like it goes to the frame rail in that one picture? never seen a griggs setup in person...
Reply:You have a fun project ahead of you. Personally I don't think a 140 amp machine will give you the range of capabilities you will need for an automotive restoration project. It will become rather limiting at times. The guys are correct. A 180 machine would be more along the lines of what you will want. Do you have 220 power available in your work area?Patriot Performance AutoLincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln AC-225 StickVictor Journeyman O/AQuincy QT-5 Compressor
Reply:Originally Posted by drivethruboy54thats cool. looks like an nice setup, im kinda curious where where the square tubing ties back to?It looks like it goes to the frame rail in that one picture? never seen a griggs setup in person...
Reply:now it makes sense, and your right it is round tubing not square.that is a WAAAAY cool setup.  as far as welding it, i would weld one length at a time, then move around.  Let it cool.By stich welding, i think your talking about just laying tack over each other, one spot weld at a time, then running over it with another bead?i would just lay one bead along all the seams, but its hard to say how long i would run each weld before moving, the frames on those are not super thick.  I probably wouldnt run more than about 2 inches at a time before moving.
Reply:You'll have to forgive me, my welding vernacular is probably not up to par.  By stitch welding I mean run a one to one and a half inch bead then skip to another section and weld another one to one and a half inch bead, and so one until I have a bead all the way around.  Where the beads would come together I would back-step into the previous weld so they appear seamless, or at least close to it.  The idea is to keep the metal from getting too hot so it won't weaken it.  I wasn't sure if it was necessary though.  There also seem to be holes in the mini tower that have to be plug welded.(I think that is the right term) I have plug welded sheet metal before, and it seem like you would use the same principle.  Any Thoughts?
Reply:you send like you have the right idea.
Reply:Patriot Performanceand Ragtop are right, you can always turn down a 220 machine for thin stuff but  with 110, cranked is cranked.  If you have 220 available at your work site, you'll be happy you bought the bigger welder.
Reply:Remember, this is an investment for the rest of your life. Your hobby is going to take you places a 120v never will. Always 'buy up' with tools, you will never regret it. However, you don't have to buy Snap-On if Craftsman will 'git-er-done'.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250