Pipe Notcher -- What To Buy?

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Since I wind up often using pipe for my projects (it seems to be cheaper and more readily available), I would like to know if there is pipe notcher available with dies for 3/4", 1", 1-1/4" for approximately $600 (my economic stimulus rebate) that would give reliable service?  I am a hobby welder/fabricator.......my last project was a farm tractor brush guard which had approximately 18 notched ends of 1-1/4" pipe before welding it together. I don't want a "hole-saw" type, but know most hydraulic units are probably too expensive for me. Is it practical to buy a used hydraulic unit?  Comments and recommendations would be appreciated.
Reply:I have a friend that has one of these and it seems to work well.http://www.lowbucktools.com/notcher.htmlDoesn't seem to do the smaller sizes, but it might work. All I've ever done is use it on tube rather than pipe. I have a cheap hole saw one for what little I have to do and its ok at best. I'd love to get a nice iron worker that notches or a mill style one if I needed to do a large quanity. Most likely if I had to get a tool for a large quanity of tube I'd get the lowbuck one.
Reply:This one is supposed to be good. But I haven't seen it in person. Price seems alright though.http://www.heckind.net/notch/pipenotcher.html
Reply:I usually cut the saddles on that size pipe with a grinder, only takes a minute or less. A little practice and you can do it with out a template. It`s just not worth buying a notcher when it`s so easy with a grinder. Buy templates from your dealer, draw the joint on the pipe and grind to fit.
Reply:Just get the JD squared TN100 ($200), and buy abunch of holesaw bits. The other option is the JMR unit, which is nicer, but also much more expensive. Anything more elaborite than that, you are looking at $3000 to play. I use mine all the time on SS tubing, and chromoly. Bits last a long time with light oiling, and I am happy with the cut quality and speed.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Originally Posted by wokesyThis one is supposed to be good. But I haven't seen it in person. Price seems alright though.http://www.heckind.net/notch/pipenotcher.html
Reply:I bought the cheap Harbor Freight one to try out. I found it to work pretty good and have used it a fair bit. I know their are better ones out their but for now I will keep using this one. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42324The one big thing about any of these types on notchers, use good hole saws. Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:I have one of the Lowbuck notchers, and I think it's a fine tool. I bought mine years ago, but have not used it real hard. It is well built and would be good if you plan on using it alot. All you do is stuff the end of the pipe/tube in and pull the lever(3'pipe), and it takes a bite off one side. Flip and repeat. It takes some practice to get good at angle fitups that are not 90 degrees. You have to bite deeper on one side than the other. It needs a very sturdy mounting point to attach to.I also have one of their tubing benders (for 1.75 od. ), and would be hesitant to recommend it. I think there are better options available now.
Reply:Originally Posted by jamlitI bought the cheap Harbor Freight one to try out. I found it to work pretty good and have used it a fair bit. I know their are better ones out their but for now I will keep using this one. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42324The one big thing about any of these types on notchers, use good hole saws.
Reply:The following was taken from Pirate4x4 and it's wat I use.The chop saw method,if understood , is a science. With known tube size and joint angle, tube can be notched with great accuracy. The notch is acheved by cutting two opposing angles on one end of a peice of tube, to form a point. The cross-section of this cut will be an elipitical cut due to the shape of the tube. Changes in boath of the two angled cuts must be made for the intersection angle and the size of the two tubes being joined. The only real limitation is the max angle of the chop saw.You start with what I call the base angle. This is the angle of boath cuts if the joint was 90*. For an example, I am fitting Two tubes together that are boath 1.75", at an 90* joint. The base angle, or the angle of boath cuts is 28*. These two cuts must meet at a point, and the point must allso be centered on the tube.What if I want an 15* joint with my 1.75" tube???? You must start with your base angle, witch was 28* for 1.75"(remember above), and subtract 15* from one cut, and add 15* to the other cut to form a perfect notch. So now I must make a 13* cut and an 43* cut , with the point centered on the tube. Perfect coped joint, with no grinding.Remember your base angle will change with the tube being cut and the tube that you are fitting to.Here are a few examples of base angles...2.0" to 2.0" tube, base angle of 30*1.75" to 1.75" tube, base angle of 28*1.5" to 1.5" tube, base angle of 26*1.25" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 22.5*1" to 1" tube, Base angle of 20*Now to fit diffrent size tubes together 1.75" to 2" tube, base angle of 25*1.75" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 45*1.25" to 1.75 tube, base angle of 20*1" to 2" tube, base angle of 12*I hope that helpsYou could also use an online template. Link belowhttp://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgiMy Photos on Flickr
Reply:A chop saw works very well for thin wall tubing. For pipe, sch. 40 & 80, I use a torch and cut them freehand. With a little practice it is easy to do and fast. Can I describe how to do it? Not so you could understand it. I could show you in two minutes. It is the same technique for all diameters of pipe, the angle of cut is slightly different between sch. 40 and sch. 80 is all. I do 3/4" to 4" freehand and usually use a 00 tip, just varying the size of the preheat flame. Small flame for the small stuff to keep from making a mess and quite a bit for the 2 thru 4 inch for speed.