Stainless or mild steel when building header

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Hey guysI’m planning on putting a turbocharger on my dad’s old David Brown 3cyl tractor from 1957 . He is on vacation right now so it would be a cool surprise when he gets back. Anyway I been wondering what pipes to use when I build the header. I went to the local junkyard and they got tons and tons of stainless steel. I measured some of the pipes and the wall thickness was 2mm. Do you guys think this will hold up or do I need thicker pipes? The alternative I found is 2.6mm mild steel pipes, but those are more expensive.This isn’t intended as a “serious” project but more as a fun way to improve my pipe welding skills. But never the less, I don’t want the turbo to fall off //Erik
Reply:Go with the Stainless..You plan on rebuilding the engine shortly after starting?I see a BIG KABOOM! with O.P.F. happening......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:What size turbo?  And I second the Stainless...
Reply:This sounds like a fun project. I wouldn't even worry so much about messing up a tractor turbo manifold as I would something that would have to have perfect scrutinized TIG beads like every other turbo manifold. Hell I would even stainless stick weld it! I'd love to see the finished product.One thing I would wonder about is if you would have a problem with the flanges trying to pull from the heat and not be completely square after everything is said and done?
Reply:Thanks for the replies! I'll go with stainless now. This is just for fun so I will be almost no boost at all, so I think the engine will hold up (at least for a while)Im going to special order some lasercut exhaust flanges for the cylinder head once I get some CAD drawings done.Im planning on getting either a used Saab or Volvo turbo with internal wastegate, these are suited for 2.3 liter engines so they migth work. Anyone else know a turbo that will work for a 2.8 liter diesel engine?I plan on milling the exhasutflanges flat after everything is welded.Now i'm of to the scrapyard to fine me some fine stainless piping // Erik
Reply:your gona put up some pic's right?ChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:Ok, just got back from the scrap yard. Bought some piping and bends. Paid $16 for all the piping, don't really know if that’s cheap or notThe new piping:Is this good or bad?The old header:Btw, I think I got a little excited my first post. Its not a David Brown, it's even better, a Nuffield 10/42 Visited the junkyard to and they wanted $250 for a old Saab turbo, that’s just ridiculousNow I'm going to do some CAD drawing of the head flanges//Erik
Reply:$16 for all that Stainless?Good Deal!!...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by EjdepalmOk, just got back from the scrap yard. Bought some piping and bends. Paid $16 for all the piping, don't really know if that’s cheap or notThe new piping:Is this good or bad?The old header:Btw, I think I got a little excited my first post. Its not a David Brown, it's even better, a Nuffield 10/42 Visited the junkyard to and they wanted $250 for a old Saab turbo, that’s just ridiculousNow I'm going to do some CAD drawing of the head flanges//Erik
Reply:Originally Posted by EjdepalmHey guysI’m planning on putting a turbocharger on my dad’s old David Brown 3cyl tractor from 1957 . He is on vacation right now so it would be a cool surprise when he gets back. Anyway I been wondering what pipes to use when I build the header. I went to the local junkyard and they got tons and tons of stainless steel. I measured some of the pipes and the wall thickness was 2mm. Do you guys think this will hold up or do I need thicker pipes? The alternative I found is 2.6mm mild steel pipes, but those are more expensive.This isn’t intended as a “serious” project but more as a fun way to improve my pipe welding skills. But never the less, I don’t want the turbo to fall off //Erik
Reply:My first idea was just to simply build an adapter and fit the turbo on the original manifold, but the thing is I have lots and lots of time and nothing to do besides, I think it's going to be a challenge to model all the pipes and bends in cad and assmble the header on the computer and then realise it.Im planing on raising the fueldelivery by adjustin the diesel pump. Apparently these old Simms pump can deliver quite some fuel...I was browsing the web yesterday and found a thread in a Swedish turbo forum where som guys had put a turbo on a Volvo-BM 350 from 1967. This tractor run reliably at 0.6 bar and delivered 100hp compared to the original 65hp. There was also a Ford 3000 which run at 1.8 bar without modifications. These old tractors seems to hold up pretty good when turbocharged, don't know about my Nuffield though, it's English remeberLooks like I've got a turbo for it aswell. Its going to be a Garrett Ta31. Probably to big for the application but it was brand new and costed less than a used turbo would so what the heck...//Erik