Type of Rod

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Greetings,I am a novice welder using a Linoln 225 Buzz Box.  I am also a Jeep enthusiast.  I have a small crack on the frame (which is a box frame-crack is on both sides of the box) of my Jeep which I want to weld up.  My plan is to weld up the crack, then "plate it."  Being a novice welder, I can lay down a great bead on the table using 7014 rod.  Knowing that I will have to weld vertically and even upside down (underside of the 'box'), what type of rod should I use and what power setting is best?Many thanks,Watty
Reply:i would advise you to practice exactly the positions the job willrequire until you are as good as you are with 7014 on a table .... before you try it..........every new position i try is like starting over for me..goodluck..
Reply:What makes it more difficult?  Is it the gravity on the puddle?
Reply:If you weld vertical up gravity will tend to pull you're weld pool down.  If welding vertical down gravity tends to cause the slag to run into you're weld causing slag inclusions.  If you try to out run the slag welding vertical down you get low penetration from moving so fast.So basically weld it vertical up but get some practice first !As far as power setting goes that depends on you, you're machine and length of leads. Heres a neat trick that will get you in the ball park.If you are running a 1/8" rod basically find the decimal point of the rod size and thats a starting point for amperage.1/8" = .125 or 125 amps.Again thats a starting point different rods can tolerate different amperages.  I was doing a vertical up weave bead the other day with 1/8" 7018's at 75 amps.   Vertical up will require a lot less amps than flat same with overhad lower amps.Get some plate the same thickness as the frame and practice on that to get you're heat settings down.Last edited by Newfie_1986; 07-29-2008 at 06:16 PM.
Reply:I was first taught to never weld automotive frames and then taught that should you do it you should always use 7018. If you aren't competent with overhead and uphill don't do it. Both are a long way from flat on the table. You could ruin your frame and anything less than competent skills can endanger your life as well as the lives of others. Use some common sense. If you have to ask all of this you don't have the necessary skills. Your best option is to take it to someone who knows what they are doing.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Take the time to learn to weld out of position....Before you fix your frame.  You WILL need it again.  Its an acquired skill, but once you got it all processes are easier to learn.  The one thing you have going for you out of position is the metal follows the heat.  Keep the heat right and in the right direction, you can get a good weld.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:watty,Before welding the chassis, determine the grade of material, (this could be difficult to obtain from the manufacturer). Most probably a carbon / manganese steel containing about 0.2% C max. I seriously doubt it it to be low alloy etc.For light chassis work on C,Mn steel I would recommend a GP6012 rod, 2.4mm dia. This will weld all positions and vertcally down for positional work. No need to mess with awkward low hydrogen rods for this job. If you purchase small vac packs of E6012 and use them within 8 hours, I can see no issue.After welding, blend all welds smooth, ie toi remove any stress concentrations and cold galv then paint.By the way, consult your owners manual before welding the chassis, and ensure all flammables are clear / protected, best to remove the fuel tank and lines in all cases.Like someone stated before in the thread, if any doubts exist in your ability to correctly and safely repair this problem...consult experts!!! Cheers
Reply:By the way...soldering takes much talent to complete....depends on the critical nature of the joint...