Broke tooth on FEL Bucket

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Broke a tiger tooth - Welding help --------------------------------------------------------------------------------Hello all,Kinda bums me a bit. My tractor is only about 6 weeks old. I was trying to turn a trailer back on its upside with my bucket. I must have binded a tooth. This looks to be a cast metal. It is a clean break. I was wondering if I could just weld it with 6011 to get the pentration, then top it with 7018. Should I heat it up with a torch, weld it then cool it slow. Should I anneal it? I need some advice. Nickel rod? I will try to send pics.HH135 MigEverlast PowerUltra 205Century heavy duty 250dc/295ac stickA/O system, victor 450 series gauges w/cutting torch and j100 torch.
Reply:Post a pic of the fracture surface.  The knowledgeable should be able to make a good guess about whether the tooth is really cast iron from the appearance of the fracture surface.  Make the picture a closeup and in good focus.  If the tooth is cast iron, you'll need to preheat the repair, and using nickel rod is the best option.  Some folks get lucky using 7018 to weld cast iron, but my sense is that the odds are against you.  Last thought, slow cooling is key to successful cast iron repairs.  You'll want to cover the weld in an insulating material, like sand or vermiculite, to slow the cooling rate of the material.  This, along with preheating to ~300°F is the most effective way to minimize the chances of the tooth cracking; if it is cast iron.If the tooth is cast steel or machined from billet steel, then welding with standard rods and little or no pre- or post- heat treatment should work.  Again, a picture will help us help you figure out what's best to do.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Pictures are coming.   Thanks for your input.HH135 MigEverlast PowerUltra 205Century heavy duty 250dc/295ac stickA/O system, victor 450 series gauges w/cutting torch and j100 torch.
Reply:99% sure that the tooth is NOT cast iron.Cast iron is usually too brittle for use as a bucket tooth.It is more likely cast steel.  As to -what- cast steel it is, I have no idea other than it is most likely not just a plain low-carbon steel like 1018 or 1020.If in doubt, preheat is usually a good idea.  It the piece is thick or big or there is a size/thickness difference between parts being welded, preheat is usually a good idea.The level of preheat varies depending on the size of the parts and on the specific alloy(s) involved.  Cast iron usually needs LOTS of preheat, various steels usually use less preheat, and some steels are sensitive to too much preheat.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:I'm with moonrise.  I've welded a couple hundred or so teeth on buckets, and NEVER seen one that is Cast iron.  Cast steel is what the tooth would be.  Don't worry about the 6011 roots etc...  Grind the pieces clean put a good bevel on them, and run a fresh 7018 all the way out.  Some pictures would help.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:here is the pics Attached ImagesHH135 MigEverlast PowerUltra 205Century heavy duty 250dc/295ac stickA/O system, victor 450 series gauges w/cutting torch and j100 torch.
Reply:Vee it out, weld with 7018 and smile.  That shank has a tough job.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...hlight=buckets  David Last edited by David R; 09-24-2008 at 09:16 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I'm with David R. If it doesn't hold then I wouldn't waste any more time on it and buy a new adapter and replace the old one.                                                    MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Problem with their design is all the torque on that tooth is on the underside of the bucket. Unless you use the bucket straight on digging any side torque is unsupported causing additional stress on that area your picture shows the break.One of the local farmers had that problem and I resolved it by putting a couple of beads of 7018 along various spots on the tooth assembly.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:My bigger worry is the overall welding on the bucket. The cut edge looks, from the pics, like there is no fusion from the cut edge to the bucket. If that is the case then you may have more problems in the future. Is this a foreign (sp) machine? I would check all of the other welds as well. And was already stated, I would weld the underside of the tooth frame as well.Only my take. Your mileage may very.Tim Beeker.
Reply:You make a good point tnjind. If the mfr of that bucket attaches a tooth in that manner that does raise a few thoughts about overall welds.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:Originally Posted by tnjindMy bigger worry is the overall welding on the bucket. The cut edge looks, from the pics, like there is no fusion from the cut edge to the bucket. If that is the case then you may have more problems in the future. Is this a foreign (sp) machine? I would check all of the other welds as well. And was already stated, I would weld the underside of the tooth frame as well.Only my take. Your mileage may very.
Reply:Thx for the responses.   V-out,  1/8 7018.  What do you think...140amps or so?   Should I heat it first?   I do plan to beef up the back side.   It is a bolt on, and hind sight says I should have taken it off before doing what I did.  Oh well stuff happens!HH135 MigEverlast PowerUltra 205Century heavy duty 250dc/295ac stickA/O system, victor 450 series gauges w/cutting torch and j100 torch.
Reply:Bolt on. Ah, I gotcha, didn't notice that.Tim Beeker.
Reply:Myself, I would just scarf the thing off and put a new one on it. That would be after I took it back to the dealer and pitched a royal fit. It should be warrantied and if you do it yourself first it could very well void the warranty.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Originally Posted by blh1960Thx for the responses.   V-out,  1/8 7018.  What do you think...140amps or so?   Should I heat it first?   I do plan to beef up the back side.   It is a bolt on, and hind sight says I should have taken it off before doing what I did.  Oh well stuff happens!