Gate stuff

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I am going to fab up a gate and was wondering how you go about mounting your gates to posts that may not be square.  The gate is going to be powder coated, so I dont want to do any onsite welding.  Has anyone come up with any tricky ways of some kind of an adjustment mechanism in the hinge works?  The gate will be attached to 6" pipe for the posts.  Also, they want a simple latch assembly that can be locked. I'm not sure what I am going to do there.. Especially if they want it removable.  I dont want to put a temporary lock that takes too much away from the looks of things.  At a later date, they are going to install electric locks.  Something that I have never dealt with before.  Here is a rough drawing.Thanks for any input.-Mike Attached ImagesCommon sense in an uncommon degree is what the world calls wisdom.
Reply:Check King Architectural Metals, they have gate stuff.http://http://www.kingmetals.com/
Reply:For a lock, I use an Eye bolt cut off or a 3/8" chain link.  Weld it to one side, weld a plate with a slot to the other side.  Make the slot plenty big.  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:A sliding tongue latch would be easy to fab.  Just cut through the sid of the tubing and use a piece of flat bar that will slide back and forth through both pieces.  Put a hole for a lock on one end and use a piece of round stock  on the other for a handle.  On the recieving side of the gate, elongate your slot so that when it settles or is out of square, it will still slide into the other gate.As for the addjustment,  two triangular pieces of solid square bar  can be cut so that when they are put together, they form a rectangular block.  One side can be tapped; the other side can have slots so that the blocks can slip somewhat while the gate is leveled.  The gate hinge can have the bolts going through them so that one triangle (wedge) can be slid up and down between them.Hope it helps but if you need,  I can draw and scan it.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/Demo number 138.I made one on of these lock a couple of years ago.  The can be quite simple.  A lathe would make it easier to make a smaller lock.  I got the spring out of a used automotive brake kit.
Reply:We weld out of plumb gates all the time around here.  Never such nice gates though.Simple solution would to be to weld the hinges like on any other gate but maybe carry some scrap light guage tin along that you can wire up to protect the finish on the gate from the spatter.I'm figuring you're using a simple "J" hanger on the post side.  One up, one down.  The hanger would be the only thing heat affected.  Tin scrap properly placed would also act as a pretty good heat sink in addition to being a shield.I'm probably way off, but it's a thought."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:One trick I use a lot is to bolt on, rather than weld on, hinges. And I mill the screw holes in the hinges into slots.I take each hinge, and in one leaf, I mill all the holes into vertical slots.In the other leaf, I mill all the holes into horizontal slots.Got to make sure, when mounting, all the vertical slots are on the post, and all the horizontals on the gate- or vice versa.Then, when adjusting, you can loosen the screws, and slide the gate up or down, in or out, or adjust diagonally.This trick requires pretty hefty hinges- I usually use stainless 4x4 hinges outside anyway, with at least 1/4 x 20 machine head screws- 5/16" or 3/8" screws are better. I have used this trick on some very big, heavy gates, and it works really well- you can dial em in vertical, adjust the gaps between matching gates, and so on.I have had to hang several 500lb or heavier gates outside that needed full width panic bar style door openers- the kind they use in Gyms or Movie theaters- and those things, which have not only a normal spring bolt, but pins going into the floor and ceiling, require the gate to be hung square and true, or they just dont work.The milled slot trick makes it easy to get those to work properly. I usually just use a ball end mill, as it cuts the slot and leaves a countersink at the same time- but sometimes I have to slot, then run a countersink.