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Hi, I have to replace the slip rings on the rotor. They are no longer available, so i'm having the rings made. I bought it with one ring broken in half and the other is still on. Examining the broken ring on the inside there is a bur about the size of a pencil lead tip. I first thought it was a chunk gouged there when the ring broke, however on the insulator where the ring sits there is opening about that size with a wire ending there. ???? Is my ring suppose to have that / are the wires somehow suppose to be attached?? My next question, is how the rings install or remove, are they pressed. Sure would appreciate some ideas if there out there. Thanks Bill
Reply:Since the slip-rings carry such a small current, I'm surprised they could become worn enough to require replacement.The Weldenpower is an alternator; the rotor's slip-rings carry a small field current, enough to induce magnetism in the rotor. Unlike a dc generator's commutator, the slip-rings do not carry output current, only the small field current. An alternator's brushes and rings are normally very low maintenance items.Somehow the rotor windings must have a current path to the slip rings; that could be through a direct wire connection, or through the slip-ring's hub. Seems like I can vaguely recall seeing an obvious wire connection at the rings on a Weldenpower. You'll have to do some up close inspection and find the rotor winding's wire tails. Hope it was some help.Good Luck
Reply:Denrep, Thanks, everything is helpful. The wire I see then must be the rotor winding's wire tails, which does come up through the hub. I'd like to share my understanding and planned repair because I fix cars, not welders. So long as the new slip rings are snug on the insulator, with the wire tails brazed or soldered, I should be fine???? If i have problems attaching the wire to the inside of the ring would it matter if I connect it to the outside edge? And, if I question whether the ring is snug enough to the insulator, I thought of using an epoxy or cement in a couple of places to make sure. I appreciate any feed back. Denrep, thanks again, Bill
Reply:Originally Posted by bishwm...So long as the new slip rings are snug on the insulator, with the wire tails brazed or soldered, I should be fine???? If i have problems attaching the wire to the inside of the ring would it matter if I connect it to the outside edge? And, if I question whether the ring is snug enough to the insulator, I thought of using an epoxy...
Reply:Thanks. It will be a week or two before I get the rings, I'll let you know how it works.
Reply:Good, hope it works out.The slip ring originally probably just had a grove worn in it.Sometimes a groove isn't so detrimental and a brush will wear in and polish up the ring anyway.New idea: Rather than making complete slip rings, is there any chance of tooling up just press-on wear sleeves which wouldn't require breaking the original wire connection? This would avoid having to make the electrical connection to the replacement slip rings, which could be tricky and in tight quarters.
Reply:That's a good option. I already have the rotor out, of course the ring that is broke is the one on the back. I could put the broken ring back with a ware ring over it as there is enough room were the brushes mount. I'll have to check continuity on the unbroken ring. I would only have to re-attach the one wire then. I'll check with my brother inlaw who is going to machine the rings and see what he thinks. A great idea thanks
Reply:I have a similar machine that I have to split the motor from the generator, how do I get the shafts apart. I need to do motor work that requires machining. Is the shaft threaded, if so how and where do I hold the armature shaft. Thanks."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:hey BISHWM, how are you making out with the split slip ring? It is sunday so I cant checking with the local shop parts availability. It sounds like you couldn't find the replacement parts. Let me know if you could get an extra ring made up for me. I havent pulled the rotor out yet. Does the wire lead have any free length to pull out of the rotor cavity for soldering onto the new ring. It is the shaft end slip ring that split on my weldanpower. Glad its not the inside one. I will wait to talk to a guy in anchorage tomorrow who overhauls these things all the time. Sounds like a routine maintenance problem. thanks for the info you guys have posted.
Reply:Originally Posted by bishwmThat's a good option. I already have the rotor out, of course the ring that is broke is the one on the back. I could put the broken ring back with a ware ring over it as there is enough room were the brushes mount. I'll have to check continuity on the unbroken ring. I would only have to re-attach the one wire then. I'll check with my brother inlaw who is going to machine the rings and see what he thinks. A great idea thanks
Reply:Originally Posted by kolotI have a similar machine that I have to split the motor from the generator, how do I get the shafts apart. I need to do motor work that requires machining. Is the shaft threaded, if so how and where do I hold the armature shaft. Thanks.
Reply:Originally Posted by kolotI have a similar machine that I have to split the motor from the generator, how do I get the shafts apart. I need to do motor work that requires machining. Is the shaft threaded, if so how and where do I hold the armature shaft. Thanks.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Look here for the answer on how to seperate the generator from the engine.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=26018
Reply:Originally Posted by cperrythanks duane,the weldanpower doesn't have the bell like the miller. There are 4 bolts up to the back of the engine block from inside the welder chasis. They appear to be the only attachment to the engine besides the front rubber motor mnts. The rotor shaft doesn't seem to have splines or keyway it may be tapered. I was wondering if the rotor will come out the engine end of the generator. I need to replace the broken slip ring and still looking for replacement rings. Thanks for your info and ideas.chris
Reply:Originally Posted by cperrythanks duane,the weldanpower doesn't have the bell like the miller. There are 4 bolts up to the back of the engine block from inside the welder chasis. They appear to be the only attachment to the engine besides the front rubber motor mnts. The rotor shaft doesn't seem to have splines or keyway it may be tapered. I was wondering if the rotor will come out the engine end of the generator. I need to replace the broken slip ring and still looking for replacement rings. Thanks for your info and ideas.chris
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55What's your units code #?
Reply:Originally Posted by cperryHi Duane, the unit code is #8927. I got the engine unbolted today and hoped to pull the rotor and engine together. I couldnt get the fan off the end shaft and not sure how the engine shaft meets the rotor shaft. Are they threaded together ? There is a shoulder on the engine side of the shaft that hides any splines or threads. BISHWM had his rotor out already and wondering how he got it. I think I found some slip rings for the unit but need to get the rotor out first. thanks for your help.chris
Reply:Duaneb55's method is the quick and dirty as well as the cheapest way to remove the rotor if it wants to be removed! For rotors that refuse to let go no matter what then the method found on the thread below is the way to get it done.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=22570Miller LegendMiller XMT 200Miller HF 251DMiller Spoolmatic 30AMillerTrailBlazer 250GLincoln LN 25Lincoln G9 ProLincWelder 225Lincoln Ranger 9Lincoln Ranger 275TJhttp://onanparts.com
Reply:thanks Duane and TJ, I got the rotor and engine out and apart. The fan was a bitch to get off. I ground the end diameter of a 3/8 rod down to insert inside the engine shaft and used the bigger hammer method to remove the rotor. It did come apart and no damage to the 3/8 right hand fine thread shaft thread. I noticed the 5/8 left hand thread in the rotor shaft end and next time would set up a puller like TJ described with great detail. Thanks for the help. I think I found the original slip rings and waiting for mail. If they are right I will post the source. Looking at the tapered end rotor shaft a friend wondered if the slip rings are breaking from shaft expansion. It seems like it is the end ring that always fails and there isnt much material left after the taper is cut. Thanks again for the info and ideas, i will post an udate later.chris
Reply:Originally Posted by cperrythanks Duane and TJ, I got the rotor and engine out and apart. The fan was a bitch to get off. I ground the end diameter of a 3/8 rod down to insert inside the engine shaft and used the bigger hammer method to remove the rotor. It did come apart and no damage to the 3/8 right hand fine thread shaft thread. I noticed the 5/8 left hand thread in the rotor shaft end and next time would set up a puller like TJ described with great detail. Thanks for the help. I think I found the original slip rings and waiting for mail. If they are right I will post the source. Looking at the tapered end rotor shaft a friend wondered if the slip rings are breaking from shaft expansion. It seems like it is the end ring that always fails and there isnt much material left after the taper is cut. Thanks again for the info and ideas, i will post an udate later.chris |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:48:33