mig movement speed

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hey everyone, ive been reading on this site for a while and search nonstop, there is some awesome info on here. i have an older milller sidekick that welds awesome, and has done almost everything on my 36' chevy truck. i have some 1/4" stuff i have to do, and while im about to get a new miller 230v, i have still been playing with coupons of 1/4 and my 110. basically what works for me is a backhand pull, slower than normal wire speed and full voltage, c25, very clean, and beveled. by keeping my wirespeed slow and slight weaving it seems like i can keep my puddle much hotter. iv broken them and about 1 out of 10 break any of the weld at all. is this acceptable and would i still use the same principle with my 230? thanks fellas! - will
Reply:If the prep work is done well, and you can get a solid puddle formed, the welders can do very well on some medium thickness stuff. As for the breakage rate, that would really depend on what kind of material, application of weld, and such. I would rather see tearing of base metal or failure from the HAZ rather than a break on a weld.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Sounds like your learning a lot by trial (geez I cant spell in my older days) and error.  Thats great to learn your machine that way.  Im like that too.Is it acceptable for a 120v?    Well no not really, but like you have figured out, sometimes you can use it in a pinch with proper fit-up and all like mentioned above.You will really like your new welder.I hear those side kicks are great machines.  Dont get rid of it when you get your new one  weld it like you own it
Reply:dont worry man ill keep that thing forever, it was my dads. with a 230 machine, will i be able to move faster since ill have more amperage? or do some still move slow and weave their welds?
Reply:If you are most comfortable moving slow, the new machine will easily adjust to YOUR comfort level until you gain experience with it. By that time, your speed will develop as well as your confidence and you'll be giving us pointers!  City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Originally Posted by chevylowdont worry man ill keep that thing forever, it was my dads. with a 230 machine, will i be able to move faster since ill have more amperage? or do some still move slow and weave their welds?
Reply:thanks guys i appreciate it, ive been building a hot rod for about three months now and iv built everything in my shop in my basement. i have wanted to do something like this since my dad passed away when i was 18, im 21 now. thanks for the encouragement fellas, i feel like im def. getting better at welding the heavier stuff, its just the 1/4" that scares me. ill wait for my MM to get here.
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Reply:Looks like you have your welding skills under control to me.  The heavier metal, just practice with your new machine.  Like many of the 'old hands' say, "Practice makes Perfect".Like the Hot Rod.  Pretty cool.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Are the radius arms aftermarket/kit.?"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Nice pics. Thanks for posting them up!!And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:thanks guys, ya man the front hairpins are from speedway. they come ready to go, the price is right and they come with tie rod ends or 5/8" hiems. welder series also has some great stuff and those guys are first class.
Reply:my codolences to you for your pops. keep up the nice work!! diggin' the little bike too..lol looks like an 80?http://kawispeed.com/ -moderator and tech deluxewww.myspace.com/trickortrack -cuz i have no life
Reply:Go Here http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/MIG_handbook/592mig7_1.htmAnd read it all. It covers travel speed, gun angle and lots of stuff.I like the hot rod. DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:that is an awesome link, thanks david i read it all. u have a question fellas, if u were to want to go over a few welds i did with 110 with my new machine, should i grind all of the old weld out or can i groove it and burn over it?  either way i will make the metal spotless as i usually do. thanks!
Reply:Grind it off.  David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:If you're using 035 wire I would try 28 volts and 350 wire. If your plates are cracking then it might be because of too much heat input. If you're just welding back to back beads I would let the plate cool a bit between welds. If you're making coupons with a torch then I would avoid that also. Heat makes steel brittle if it doesn't cool correctly the properties and all that technical crap gets messed up and changed how the steal acts and reacts....
Reply:chevylow,Two suggestions for welding with your 110. First, don't weave. stick with stringers this will help keep your heat focused. Secondly, preheat everything you weld. This will reduce the amount of energy that is needed to fuse the metal. It looks like you have a good idea of what your doing. Additionally the lower the CO2 the more efficient your arc will be.