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Hi... I just bought some 3/32" 6010 rods, and the package recommends 40-70 AMPs of DC+. This works well enough, albeit with lots of sticking. I was wondering if a higher current setting is used, will it cause any negative effects to my welds. I would think that it might give me some deeper penetration; but it does cause lots of sputter and spewing. May be rod is being atomized. I don't know. I tried 95 AMPs with these rods while welding some T-Posts into a stand for my forge. Thank You ! Ed VAP.S. I bought these rods from Harbor Freight for less than $5.00 for 5 pounds ! Great Deal if they are working as they're supposed to.Last edited by edv7028; 12-26-2008 at 10:15 AM.
Reply:Thing I found with HF rods is that the way they are packaged exposes them to moisture in the air. The rods ,basically any rod will absorb humidiity from the air and that will effect their performance. There is a good post on this web about baking the rods to get the moisture out of them. For most hobby folks its not a big issue. HF is selling a lower grade rod so moisture can be an issue especially in high humidity areas.The post I suggested talks about putting the rods in an oven to dry the moisture out of the rods. Another idea would be a welding rod storage container from HF! The container is a plastic container is round with a screww on cap. Between the body of the container and the cap is a rubber O ring feature that helps keep the humidy away from the rods. If you get one of these containers I also recommend a Product called Damp Rid (available at walmart. home depot, lowe's and most hardware stores. Put some in the bottom of the container! As the product aborbs the moisture iit gradually hardens.I use this method on the farm to keep the rods moisture free. In the shop we use a mini oven kept on a low temp.Hope this helps,Tomaddon: http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=25899Last edited by specter; 12-26-2008 at 11:28 AM.Reason: addonCo-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.& 2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:Don't put 6010 in an oven ever. It's not a low hydrogen rod. In fact adding a little moisture to the flux can often times help. Sometimes 6010 just wants to stick. I would run that rod as hot as I could handle it. Also try to switch polarity, I think we used to run it on reverse.- If you can jump across it you can weld it! - anonymous old boilermaker
Reply:DC+ is reverse polarity .....
Reply:Originally Posted by mark8310DC+ is reverse polarity .....
Reply:If you run that rod continuously (rather than short stitch welds) at too high a current, the coating will start to discolor as it begins to burn. 6011 coating typically has cellulose, same as in cotton, and that furnishes a reducing atmosphere plus 'digging' gas at the arc. I'd expect 95 amps to be too high for 3/32".
Reply:Originally Posted by KangiCan you forgive me?
Reply:Edv7028:Your sticking issue probably has to do more with varying your arc length too much. A 3/32" rod is very small, arc length will be approx 3/32 +- a little bit. Pull just a little too far out, you loose the arc, move just a little too close, it sticks. Rather than start increasing the amps so much, if I were you I'd just keep practicing more, concentrating on consistantly maintaining the arc length that works for the rod and welder. Use TWO hands, brace yourself up well, and get to it. Five pounds of 3/32 is quite a few rods, and at $5.00, it's not like your burning money ....
Reply:for many of the less experienced people reading this, uncorrected would continue a false belief that RP is DC-, much more common than you would think.
Reply:Oldiron2:As I was reading this thread, I was getting ready to type that very tip. OBTW: Nice use of bold characters. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Originally Posted by mark8310Maybe someday ....... Actually, it wasn't a putdown to you, but for many of the less experienced people reading this, uncorrected would continue a false belief that RP is DC-, much more common than you would think.
Reply:Originally Posted by KangiYeah I was being a little flippant, one of those know what you want to say but type something else. Thanks for not letting my screw up go unchecked though.
Reply:Just remember RP fo reverse polarity and rod positive.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:Thanks to All for your input on my question. I need all the help I can get. Mark8310... I've been practicing all day long with those rods and some 1/8" CopperClad Carbon Gouging Electrodes. That HF price makes it easier to burn them up. My project doesn't really allow me to get in there in many places. Everything is 90 degree angles, and several crossmembers. With the rods being 12" long, I can't really get in there to run any long runs. Most of it is all tack welded except for a few 1 to 2 inch runs here and there; but it's holding my 100+ pound forge full of Coal and Coke. I cut back on the current to 75 AMPS, and things seem to have cooled down a bit, with less sticking; but Gee... these rods really do like to spew and spit all over me. Have a Great Day Folks. I have some leftover ham to eat. Thanks AGain ! Ed VA
Reply:Enjoy your ham Ed.There's an old saying here in OK from the Depression Days. Was about slaughtering, and butchering, hogs."We ate everything but the squeal"."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I was wondering if a higher current setting is used, will it cause any negative effects to my welds. I would think that it might give me some deeper penetration; but it does cause lots of sputter and spewing. May be rod is being atomized. I don't know. I tried 95 AMPs with these rods while welding some T-Posts into a stand for my forge.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammThere's an old saying here in OK from the Depression Days. Was about slaughtering, and butchering, hogs."We ate everything but the squeal".
Reply:You know,,,,, I have a packing plant customer,,,, used to be a kill plant up to a few years ago, before they switched everything over to kitchen work. Had a hide stripper, pulled a guy's head off once. Talking to the other guys a couple days later,,,,, I can't recall now if they ever found the head???? or did it end up in the sausage down the line??????? Oh, well,,,,,, this is Christmas time anyway, we should be talking about cheery happy stuff, forget I said anything ......
Reply:Originally Posted by mark8310You know,,,,, I have a packing plant customer,,,, used to be a kill plant up to a few years ago, before they switched everything over to kitchen work. Had a hide stripper, pulled a guy's head off once. Talking to the other guys a couple days later,,,,, I can't recall now if they ever found the head???? or did it end up in the sausage down the line??????? Oh, well,,,,,, this is Christmas time anyway, we should be talking about cheery happy stuff, forget I said anything ......
Reply:Originally Posted by edv7028Thanks to All for your input on my question. I need all the help I can get. Mark8310... I've been practicing all day long with those rods and some 1/8" CopperClad Carbon Gouging Electrodes. That HF price makes it easier to burn them up. My project doesn't really allow me to get in there in many places. Everything is 90 degree angles, and several crossmembers. With the rods being 12" long, I can't really get in there to run any long runs. Most of it is all tack welded except for a few 1 to 2 inch runs here and there; but it's holding my 100+ pound forge full of Coal and Coke. I cut back on the current to 75 AMPS, and things seem to have cooled down a bit, with less sticking; but Gee... these rods really do like to spew and spit all over me.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyOh, I'd love to be an Oscar Mayer wiener. That is what I'd truly like to be. ' Cause if I were an Oscar Mayer wiener, hmmm hmmm hmmm hmmmm---------
Reply:Originally Posted by edv7028Hi... I just bought some 3/32" 6010 rods, and the package recommends 40-70 AMPs of DC+. This works well enough, albeit with lots of sticking. I was wondering if a higher current setting is used, will it cause any negative effects to my welds. I would think that it might give me some deeper penetration; but it does cause lots of sputter and spewing. May be rod is being atomized. I don't know. I tried 95 AMPs with these rods while welding some T-Posts into a stand for my forge. Thank You ! Ed VAP.S. I bought these rods from Harbor Freight for less than $5.00 for 5 pounds ! Great Deal if they are working as they're supposed to.
Reply:Originally Posted by mark8310Oh, well,,,,,, this is Christmas time anyway, we should be talking about cheery happy stuff, forget I said anything ......
Reply:i find 6011 on ac a totally nicer rod than 6010 on + or - ........
Reply:Gee... you guys are FUNNY !!! I'm really glad I made that comment about my leftover turkey. I needed a good laugh; so THANKS !!! For those of you that haven't "met" me before, I'm just an aspiring Hobby Welder since i retired about 5 years ago. I have a little Clarke 95E, which is only good for lighting charcoal fires, and a nice Lincoln 225/125 AC/DC which I use for almost everything now. Even lighting coal and coke in my forge. YES... it can be done ! Because my grandkids have this bad habit of always wanting to eat, I"m on a tight budget; so I only use what I can find around here on my 1 acre of land. I have several 20 footer pieces of rebar, and many T-Posts that I picked up. I also have many Railroad Baseplates which I dug up with my tiller. Luckily, I don't have to repair it yet due to damage as I "Found" those baseplates. Many ax heads, old tiller blades, lawn mower blades etc. I got these 6010's simply because I read on some website, (I think it was Lincoln's), that 6010 was used for rusty, painted, dirty old pipe. I figured that it might make it easier to weld on some of the junk I have. I haven't really had any problems welding on these T-Posts yet. I made a frame for my back porch, and it holds my 300# pound butt off the ground with now problems so far. The stand I made for my forge has been the forge at about 100#, and lots of coal and coke since yesterday; and I've been mashing stuff into it with lots of force. The forge stand continues to stand. On lighting coal with the welder... I figured that since coal is carbon, it should be conductive, and it is ! I put the Copper Clad Carbon Gouging electrode in my stinger, and just held it on the top piece of coal for about 20 seconds or less. It lit up everything beneath the top piece through their conductivity ! Really fast, easy, and no lighter fluid ! I bought the Gouging electrodes because I thought I might be able to bend some 1.0" rebar by heating it with them. Thanks to Denrep and FarmerSamm, I've been shown that it can be done; but with lots of practice before burning into the rebar itself. Gotta be fast ! The 1/8" doesn't work as well as the 1/4" rods though; and they don't last long at all. As always, I Thank You All for your inputs, and jokes. I'm really glad I found this place ! Ed VALast edited by edv7028; 12-27-2008 at 11:21 AM.Have a Great Day Folks. I have some leftover ham to eat.
Reply:In my opinion 6010 as well as 7018 on ac is best left to engine drives and 3 phase machines. Single phase transformer machines just don't have enough arc voltage to get the job done inless they are rather large machines. I can't say anything about invertor machines because I haven't used one.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:Hi Again... OldIron... I bought this place from an old rancher; and I think he just bulldozed lots of the surrounding land onto this place. When I bought the place, everything had been bulldozed down to nothing but mud; and I guess they buried lots of what had been piled up. I got my 1.0" rebar at the local hardware store. It costs too much to buy much of; so I bought only 2 20 foot pieces; but have lots of 3/8" and 1/2" pieces, not to mention those T-Posts which are used to string up fences around here in South Central Texas. Tresi... the 6010 rods I have are 3/32"; and do seem to make a nice solid weld at 75 AMPS. They do spit and sputter more than any I've used up to this point; but are acceptable for what I paid for them.The Lincoln 225/125 AC/DC I bought hasn't been "Pushed" yet. I haven't used any of the settings about 115 DC that I remember; and only the 1/4" Gouging Rods I have even hint at needing anything like 200 AMPS for use. Ham, Turkey, Spam... they're all the same to me as far as filling the belly. Just have to add the right amount of Hot Sauce and Cranberry Jam to make them slide down the old gullet ! Heck... even hot dogs are edible with enough Louisiana Hot Sauce and Mustard on them ! He-he
Reply:Originally Posted by tresiIn my opinion 6010 as well as 7018 on ac is best left to engine drives and 3 phase machines. Single phase transformer machines just don't have enough arc voltage to get the job done inless they are rather large machines. I can't say anything about invertor machines because I haven't used one.
Reply:Originally Posted by edv7028Ham, Turkey, Spam... they're all the same to me as far as filling the belly. Just have to add the right amount of Hot Sauce and Cranberry Jam to make them slide down the old gullet ! Heck... even hot dogs are edible with enough Louisiana Hot Sauce and Mustard on them ! He-he
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in DenverThat does it, I'm switching to bologna.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyHeck, bullony is just an XL hotdog. It's all made at the end of the day, after the floor has been swept good.
Reply:I have more packing-plant stories, if anybody's interested .....
Reply:Originally Posted by mark8310I have more packing-plant stories, if anybody's interested .....
Reply:Originally Posted by Oldiron2If you run that rod continuously (rather than short stitch welds) at too high a current, the coating will start to discolor as it begins to burn. 6011 coating typically has cellulose, same as in cotton, and that furnishes a reducing atmosphere plus 'digging' gas at the arc. I'd expect 95 amps to be too high for 3/32".
Reply:Hi Again... Are we talking about dunking 6010 or 6011 ??? I've been told many times that the coating on electrodes is mostly for creating a "Gas Cloud" over the molten pool so that it won't oxidize. (I've even managed to use some rods with no coating whatsoever on them.) It has been my "Guess" that the coating served to keep sparking internally until the rod itself ignited. The heat from the sparking coating kept the rod molten so that it would adhere to the material being welded. If anyone can explain the actual physics of welding, I'd sure be interested to learn that much more. Thanks To ALL; and Happy & Prosperous New Year !!! Ed VA
Reply:Ed:Rlitman mentioned cellulose shielded rods which are the 6010/6011 rods. They do indeed create a 'gas cloud' to shield the puddle. 6013 and 7018 are slag shielded.This is why 6010/6011 are used as the first rod used for an open root weld, like pipe welding. The 'gas cloud' can float around to the inside of the pipe, shielding the bead. Also, since the shielding is partially gaseous, there is less slag to chip off. With a slag shielded rod, it will not shield the inside bead. This slag will come off easily, sometimes it will 'pop off' by itself.As far as using some rods without a coating, there may have been melting and joining of the metals; however it was a weak, atmoshpere contaminated, and brittle weld.This is what I think I know. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250 |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:48:25