Brazing w/ An Arc Welder

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Hi Again...  I was wondering if any Experts or Old Hands have come up with any ingenious way to braze using an Arc Welder with some specific rods.    I have an old Cast Iron Wood Stove which I'd like to "Seal" the edges on to make it smokeproof for use in my tool shed.  I can't find whatever was used to seal it when it was new; and the company that made it doesn't have anything like that on their website.  Thanks !  Ed VA"I'm not wrong... I've just found something else that doesn't work."
Reply:Ed be careful if you try it.  I suspect that you will get a violent reaction from either the base material or the brazing rod.  Brazing does not melt the base metal, only heats it high enough so that it wicks the brass into the outer pores of the material.  As brass melting temp is much lower than steel or iron, I think that a 10,000 degree arc may either explode the brass rod or vaporize it even at low settings.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Thanks Lugweld...  I read just what you said here in the book "Welder's Handbook" by Richard Finch.  I was just wondering if there is any way to heat the base metal so that "Some Sort' of brazing rod would melt onto it.     I've accidently "Stuck" electodes onto rebar and some plate to the point where the rebar became "Red Hot".  I don't want to hurt my welder; but I figured that some of you "Old Hands" might have used this type of "Rod Sticking" to good advantage/purpose.  Thanks !  Ed VA  "I'm not wrong... I've just found something else that doesn't work."
Reply:The sticking you describe is likely from too low of current.As for heating the base metal, a torch would do it. But if you had a torch, then I guess you wouldn't even be thinking in this direction and go ahead and braze it up the safe way.Yeah, money is an issue.  I need a good tig machine but have been stretched as thin a dollar bill, so the other day I gas welded some stainless steel.  It worked, but I wouldn't want to x-ray it.  The other option is a spool gun but there again, I need 600 bucks that are devoted to little things like the mortgage etc.But I did buy a shop crane/hoist the other day brand new for $20 at Agri-supply because it was missing the base where the forward legs bolt on and everything mounts.  A little spare metal and 20 bucks for casters and the next day I have a 2 ton shop hoist that I needed sorely for a little over 40 bucks.  Maybe if I find my camera card, I will post the pics. 220 dollar value!  Not bad if you are willing to shop the discount aisle.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Yeah... good eyes and a little luck work wonders.    I bought a 14" Cut-Off Saw which arrived with a broken wheel.  I called up the folks I bought it from while it was on sale for about $80.00.  I told them about the broken wheel; and they sent me another one... another ENTIRE Cut-Off Saw !  I told them all I wanted was the wheel; but they said they were going to write-off the entire thing to the shipping company.  I also bought a 2. HP Air Compressor for $100.00.  It got here, didn't work, so i called the vendor on it.  He said that because it was on sale, it would cost more than it was worth for them to have me return it for a new machine; so again, they sent me another new one.  After some work, I got the original broken one working, which I gave to my son.  Lotsa luck here !  Now if only I can work the same wonder with a New Truck !!!  I've got some plans to build a small hoist for engine blocks, trannys, etc.  I'm going to build it out of 1.0" rebar as always; but just now, I'm saving the rebar for something else... underside support for a backporch.  Don't worry... I'll check the weld strength before lifting anything really heavy.  Ed VA  "I'm not wrong... I've just found something else that didn't work."Last edited by edv7028; 11-06-2008 at 09:56 AM.
Reply:I certainly don't qualify as an expert but I fit in the "Old Hand" catagory quite well, thank you. That only means I'm old and have been welding a long time and doesn't say any thing about my skill level. Back in the old days there was a gadget called a carbon arc torch that took the place of an electrode holder. It held two carbon rods that could be rotated to adjust the gap between them and had a heat shield to protect your hand from the heat of the arc. The heat of the arc was controlled by the diameter of the carbons, amperage, the length of the arc, and the distance of the arc from the work piece. They were used for welding thin material and brazing with ordinary brazing rods and flux just like an A/O torch. This information comes strictly from reading about them. I suppose they didn't work all that well. I started making my living welding in the mid 60s and have never seen one. Not in a welding supply, a welding shop, secondhand store, or flea market.I would go with A/O brazing or take it to a shop and have it done.
Reply:"Thanks Oldtimer !"... I think that's what the Lone Ranger would always say.  Are you old enough to remember him ?  He-he  I went to Lincoln's website, and found a Carbon Arc Torch several weeks ago.  I then sent them an email for cost and availability; but they no longer make, or sell them.  I did find one on E-bay that's supposed to be "NIB" (New In Box); but just don't have the money for it just now.  If they're no longer made, I wonder what the availability of the Carbon Rods is ???  Thanks Again "Old Timer" and "Adios !"  Ed VA  "I'm not wrong... I've just found something else that doesn't work."
Reply:you can use arc gouging rods in them. Sometimes you can find carbon for an old arc lamp style movie projector. Carbon arc brazing is doable but its a PITA in my opinion.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:I have a carbon-arc 'torch' sold by Sears or Wards and have used it to heat things at times. The arc is rather noisy, even on DC (which isn't recommended but works). I also have a large box of 14" long, 3/8" diameter electrodes which I think were made for the old searchlights. (I have a friend who owns two of those lights).Various companies make bronze electrodes for stick welding, for example MG 310 which is made in AC and DC versions; it should be listed on the Messer website. I don't know how well it would work for your thin cast iron or whether you could get a small amount to practice with or use.I assume this is for the joints where the top, sides and back join. What if you used fiberglass and clay wetted with waterglass solution? Or find a refractory putty which is made commercially? Would it stay in the joints?
Reply:Originally Posted by edv7028Hi Again...  I was wondering if any Experts or Old Hands have come up with any ingenious way to braze using an Arc Welder with some specific rods.    I have an old Cast Iron Wood Stove which I'd like to "Seal" the edges on to make it smokeproof for use in my tool shed.  I can't find whatever was used to seal it when it was new; and the company that made it doesn't have anything like that on their website.  Thanks !  Ed VA"I'm not wrong... I've just found something else that doesn't work."
Reply:Originally Posted by Oldiron2I have a carbon-arc 'torch' sold by Sears or Wards and have used it to heat things at times. The arc is rather noisy, even on DC (which isn't recommended but works). I also have a large box of 14" long, 3/8" diameter electrodes which I think were made for the old searchlights. (I have a friend who owns two of those lights).Various companies make bronze electrodes for stick welding, for example MG 310 which is made in AC and DC versions; it should be listed on the Messer website. I don't know how well it would work for your thin cast iron or whether you could get a small amount to practice with or use.I assume this is for the joints where the top, sides and back join. What if you used fiberglass and clay wetted with waterglass solution? Or find a refractory putty which is made commercially? Would it stay in the joints?
Reply:Originally Posted by OldtimerI certainly don't qualify as an expert but I fit in the "Old Hand" catagory quite well, thank you. That only means I'm old and have been welding a long time and doesn't say any thing about my skill level. Back in the old days there was a gadget called a carbon arc torch that took the place of an electrode holder. It held two carbon rods that could be rotated to adjust the gap between them and had a heat shield to protect your hand from the heat of the arc. The heat of the arc was controlled by the diameter of the carbons, amperage, the length of the arc, and the distance of the arc from the work piece. They were used for welding thin material and brazing with ordinary brazing rods and flux just like an A/O torch. This information comes strictly from reading about them. I suppose they didn't work all that well. I started making my living welding in the mid 60s and have never seen one. Not in a welding supply, a welding shop, secondhand store, or flea market.I would go with A/O brazing or take it to a shop and have it done.
Reply:Use the right tool for the job at hand, and all that sort of stuff.If you want to braze the cast iron, use a gas torch.If you want to weld the cast iron and you have a stick welder, go to the LWS and get some nickle rods made for welding cast iron.Before working on cast iron, especially if you haven't welded or brazed it before, at least read up (via the Lincoln or ESAB or other websites) about some of the 'special' things you have to do or be aware of when working with cast iron.  Cast iron can be a bit tempermental to work with, due to all the carbon in it and the metal's brittle nature and tendancy to crack due to thermal (or mechanical!) shock.  Cast iron often/usually needs gentle preheat to a pretty high temperature before applying the intense heat of an arc or a torch and then very slow controlled cooling so that the cast iron doesn't go "PING!" and crack.What kind of 'sealing' are you trying to do there?  You can get fiberglass stove/fireplace gasket material and stove/fireplace high-temp mortar/'glue' at many places that sell wood stove or fireplace 'stuff'.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:The big worry I would have is that wood stoves have very unequal heating in use, so the different sections which expand at different rates may need to be ale to move wrt each other. Welding and brazing will both interfere with this. That is why I suggested the sealing material instead. I like the woven fiberglass which MoonRise suggested, if it will fit.
Reply:Hi & Thanks to ALL Again...  I was aware of the Pre-Heating requirements of Cast Iron; and also the possibility of cracking.  I didn't know what that gasket material was called until you mentioned it.  I'll have to look for it.  Thanks Again !  Ed VA  "I'm not wrong... I've just found something else that won't work."
Reply:Hey. What I want to know is why you want to seal up the cracks? I live in Minnesota where it gets colder than a witches tit and for the life of me I cant figure this one out. Put a damper in the stove pipe and make sure you can close the draft and you are set. The hot air rises is what causes a draft in the stove so it will take off. So really what you have is a vacuum not pressure. Not to worry about a few air leaks. I have spent a many a night watching the fire thru the cracks in the stove. I go thru about 10 cords a year. Nothing better than a good wood fire in the shop. Thats all I got in mine and it has all kinds of leaks the door is to warped to close. So weld something else and leave the stove alone. Harold
Reply:Hi Harold...  I guess "Cracks" was the wrong word to use.  I need to seal the edges where each panel comes together... where the sides meet at each corner, and where the top fits onto the top edge of the sides.  One of the other fellas remarked on it.  Sorry for the confusion; but I'm glad you'll be warm this winter with your stove !  I don't go through 10 cords a year; but at least 2 to 3 for BBQ's and "Thinkin; and Drinkin'" fires.  Thanks !  Ed VA  "I'm not wrong... I've just found something else that doesn't work." Originally Posted by WelderskelterHey. What I want to know is why you want to seal up the cracks? I live in Minnesota where it gets colder than a witches tit and for the life of me I cant figure this one out. Put a damper in the stove pipe and make sure you can close the draft and you are set. The hot air rises is what causes a draft in the stove so it will take off. So really what you have is a vacuum not pressure. Not to worry about a few air leaks. I have spent a many a night watching the fire thru the cracks in the stove. I go thru about 10 cords a year. Nothing better than a good wood fire in the shop. Thats all I got in mine and it has all kinds of leaks the door is to warped to close. So weld something else and leave the stove alone. Harold
Reply:Sounds like you need furnace cement sold at home centers and fireplace shops. If you start to braze or weld things together, you will have problems. Like mentioned before, things heat up uneven and stresses will cause problems. That is why furnace cement is used. It seals, but allows for some movement of the individual panels. Check it out before you do damage to your stove. Good luck. YD
Reply:Well, if you want to weld the stove.  Just build a big fire in it and go to town welding.  It is self preheating.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:The process you are discribing is Everdure welding. Sheet metal shops used it for decades. Everdure rods are silicon/bronze rods. You use an arc gouging rod ina stick machines electrode holder on fairly low amperage and weld like TIG. I've watched some of those sheet metal guys lay out 30" of weld in under a minute. Looks like crap but is a stout weld.
Reply:If we're done thinking about electric brazing up a stove, I'd like to say that cast iron and other metals can be effectively brazed by stick; great for wear pads - not recomended for stoves. I know you'd want the pics,  so I ran a quick sample today with some random junk, and a  cast Iron T :Attachment 25001Top - Cast iron fitting to cast iron fitting.Center - Copper fuse terminal to iron.Bottom - Brass fitting to brass fitting.No clean-up, no preheat, no fine adjustment, just weld (braze?):Attachment 25002Lincoln Aerisweld, 1/8" about 90 amps. DCreverse Cleaned up with a wire weel:Attachment 25003Destructive test:Attachment 25006Look how far the beating deformed the fitting before the small bronze broke.Now that the T is warming up, and has been cleaned a little, look at the flow and bond of a bead:Attachment 25005One of these days on a real job, I'll post pics of Aerisweld beads with proper prep.For now, that's the picture limit!  Last edited by denrep; 10-19-2010 at 11:37 PM.
Reply:Every day I find out that I know less, and less.  Thanks"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Hi Denrep & Thanks; but...  HOW can I do this with my Lincoln 225/125 AC/DC; what kind of rod do I need, and what current setting should I use ?    I've been practicing with an old Cast Iron Pot I had; but irregardless of which rod I use, and what current I'm using, the pot pops, spits, and cracks just like a mean old woman !Thanks ! Ed VA "I'm not wrong... I've just found something else that didn't work." Originally Posted by denrepIf we're done thinking about electric brazing up a stove, I'd like to say that cast iron and other metals can be effectively brazed by stick; great for wear pads - not recomended for stoves. I know you'd want the pics,  so I ran a quick sample today with some random junk, and a  cast Iron T :Attachment 25001Top - Cast iron fitting to cast iron fitting.Center - Copper fuse terminal to iron.Bottom - Brass fitting to brass fitting.No clean-up, no preheat, no fine adjustment, just weld (braze?):Attachment 25002Lincoln Aerisweld, 1/8" about 90 amps. DCreverse Cleaned up with a wire weel:Attachment 25003Destructive test:Attachment 25006Look how far the beating deformed the fitting before the small bronze broke.Now that the T is warming up, and has been cleaned a little, look at the flow and bond of a bead:Attachment 25005One of these days on a real job, I'll post pics of Aerisweld beads with proper prep.For now, that's the picture limit!
Reply:[Thanks Yankee Dog !    It sounds as if what you mentioned here is what I need.  I'll look for it at the local Home Depot.  That's about all we have here in this small town.  Ed VA  "I'm not wrong... I've just found something else that didn't work."QUOTE=Yankee Dog;224864]Sounds like you need furnace cement sold at home centers and fireplace shops. If you start to braze or weld things together, you will have problems. Like mentioned before, things heat up uneven and stresses will cause problems. That is why furnace cement is used. It seals, but allows for some movement of the individual panels. Check it out before you do damage to your stove. Good luck. YD[/QUOTE]
Reply:Originally Posted by edv7028...HOW can I do this with my Lincoln 225/125 AC/DC; what kind of rod do I need, and what current setting should I use ? ...Originally Posted by denrepThe Lincoln Aerisweld is (was?) A phosphor bronze electrode, conforming to AWS A5.6-76 or ASME SFA5.6. Recommended settings of, DC+ at 50-125 amps for 1/8" size.I don't think bronze electrode is the answer for this stove sealing application, but I thought I'd bring the topic up when I read doubts that it exists. One reason it wouldn't be practical; the bronze electrode would probably cost more than a new stove. Another thing, the low grade cast typically used in stoves is not repair friendly, especially after it has been "baked out" from repeated heat-cool cycles, also the repair will be subject to still more cycles.You'll probably have to go with a grout or packing as has been suggested, and just plan on repacking it every so often.Good Luck
Reply:IMHO  Welderskelter  asked the correct question and made the correct recommendation.  Be sure you have a proper draft and ignore the gaps.  I believe that modern "high technology" EPA compliant stoves intentionally introduce secondary air into the stove AFTER the main firebox to aid in burning the volatiles that escape from the main firebox.  Your air leaks may actually help reduce pollution.To be safe in an enclosed space (and even to function), a wood stove must have negative pressure induced by the flue draft.  Unless the leaks were so gross as to interfere with the firebox draft generated by the hot flue and hot combustion products, you should have no problem.If you are getting smoke in the room, something is wrong other than the gaps in the stove.  Check your flue condition and sizing.  Check your fire building procedure.  Talk to your local wood stove dealer.awright
Reply:Thanks againi Denrep...  I've contacted Lincoln about the possibility of getting a sample of that Aerisweld; but am still trying to find those Carbon Electrodes someone had mentioned earlier.Ed VA"I'm not wrong... I've just found something else that didn't work."
Reply:Hi Awright...  Thanks for your input; but wherever there is a visible fire, kids like to poke around.  My grandkids visit here often; and I can't always be in 5 places all at the same time.  I just want to insure that they can't poke any sticks or fingers through the "Meeting Edges" of the stove to get hurt, or burn down anything.  I'm really interested to see a photo of one of those Carbon electrodes so many of you guys have mentioned in my various posts.  Some of you have told me that they used to be used in those large, high intensity lights, like Kleig Lights.  Thanks to All !  Ed VA  "The job is only as hard as you make it."P.S.  FarmerSamm... I'll let you know what I find on that "Aerisweld" from Lincoln.
Reply:Originally Posted by edv7028[  It sounds as if what you mentioned here is what I need.  I'll look for it at the local Home Depot.  That's about all we have here in this small town.
Reply:Thanks You Spiral-Cut-bevel !
Reply:edv7028, you said, "I'm really interested to see a photo of one of those Carbon electrodes so many of you guys have mentioned in my various posts. Some of you have told me that they used to be used in those large, high intensity lights, like Kleig Lights."Google "carbon arc rods" and you get a number of vendors' listings of available rods and sources with photos.You could make your own torch with only a little hassle.  I picked up one at a salvage/recycled stuff store for a few bucks that was originally sold under the Wards name.  It is extremely low-tech, consisting of only two galvanized steel tubes joined by an insulated rotating joint (flat plates with an insulated bolt clamping them together, as I recall.  Each rod has a similar rotating joint or perhaps a ball joint at the business end with a carbon rod clamp.  I think the rod clamps were also galvanized steel, but that seems silly.  Copper rod clamps make more sense.  Maybe they were copper.  The wires from the CC welding machine were connected to these rod clamps.In use, you apply power, set the desired current, touch the carbons together and immediately pull them apart a small distance (experiment with that for heat, arc stability, burn rate).   Then you manipulate the arc so you don't burn or arc to the work but get the heating you want for brazing, bending, etc.  You are using the heat radiated from the torch to heat your work.  You have to adjust the carbons frequently as they burn away.  The torch is extremely rudimentary.If I wanted to make one, I would use a couple of cast copper clamps electricians use to bond ground wires to grounding rods (the rods driven into the ground).  Clamps that distribute the clamping force over an area of the rod, rather than just a set screw that bears down on the rod would be least likely to damage the rod due to overtightening.  Use your imagination to provide holders that will allow you to adjust the rod gap quickly on the fly.  Of course, you have to wear your welding helmet because the carbon arc produces copious UV radiation and is as bright as a welding arc.I'm not necessarily recommending that you make or use such a carbon torch.  I never bothered to set mine up because I find that propane, MAPP, or oxy-acetylene torches do my work fine.awright
Reply:Originally Posted by edv7028  I'm really interested to see a photo of one of those Carbon electrodes so many of you guys have mentioned in my various posts.
Reply:Hi Guys & Thanks Again for your input...  No...  I don't think I want to go through the hassle and "enlightenment" of building my own Carbon Arc Torch.  I'm too old, and don't think I have that much time !  He-he  What I was looking for the Carbon Electrodes for is to try an idea one of you folks put out there using a carbon electrode in my Lincoln with some Aerisweld electrodes to braze.  I've tried my propane torch to braze some simple, (and small), air fittings onto a coppere tube for an extended air blower to use   in my forge.  (it gets really hot up close).  It's either too windy, but more than likely, I still don't know what the heck I'm doing.  I just keep trying.  I could just cheat and use some epoxy; but as I said, I'm old and stubborn.  If I haven't let my wife drive me crazy, I'm doggone sure not going to let this brazing problem get the best of me !  He-he  Ed VA  "The job is only as difficult as you make it seem."
Reply:Originally Posted by edv7028 ...What I was looking for the Carbon Electrodes for is to try an idea one of you folks put out there using a carbon electrode in my Lincoln with some Aerisweld electrodes to braze.......I'm doggone sure not going to let this brazing problem get the best of me !  He-he
Reply:I Knew it !  Thank You Denrep !  Curiousity, or biting your tongue finally got the best of your patience I see !  He-he  I figured that with all the heat generated by an Arc Welder, someone would have figured out how to braze with one.  THANK YOU for taking the time and using-up your stuff to show us how.  I'm sure it'll come in handy for bunches of us sooner or later !  Maybe even yourself learned something you can use in a pinch.  Thank You again for setting me straight on that Aerisweld too.  Now if I can only find some.  Would you happen to know if the Carbon Rods inside "D" cell batteries are of the same composition as the Carbon Rods you used in your experiment ?  You're another one of those "Good Guys !".  Ed VA  "Every once in awhile, something good turns up."
Reply:Originally Posted by denrep6 o'clock - Copper brazing rod, 15% silver. A HIT!
Reply:Originally Posted by edv7028I   Would you happen to know if the Carbon Rods inside "D" cell batteries are of the same composition as the Carbon Rods you used in your experiment ?  You're another one of those "Good Guys !".  Ed VA  "Every once in awhile, something good turns up."
Reply:The carbon rods in d cell batteries do work and for quite a while.When I was a little kid I made a carbon arc that plugged into the wall and used a glass bowl of salt water for a power resistor.I used to melt glass and salt with it.I made a wood holder with lead blocks drilled for the carbon rods, there was a slider that let the rods move together.Of course I did not have any safety glasses Amazing how much flash burn of the eyes can hurt. And for how long.
Reply:Originally Posted by buhlerThe carbon rods in d cell batteries do work and for quite a while.When I was a little kid I made a carbon arc that plugged into the wall and used a glass bowl of salt water for a power resistor.I used to melt glass and salt with it.I made a wood holder with lead blocks drilled for the carbon rods, there was a slider that let the rods move together.Of course I did not have any safety glasses Amazing how much flash burn of the eyes can hurt. And for how long.
Reply:Originally Posted by mendoje1Question:  Was the 6 o'clock bead the last one tried of the bunch?  Was the piece already warmed up from the other beads?  Or was the workpiece cooled down between beads?
Reply:Hey Buhler... Thanks for the info from your "D" cell experiment.  Good to know.Tresi... what kind of $12.00 per box rods are you talking about; and where can I find them ? Denrep... Thanks Again !  Seems to me I'm not the only one learning here thanks to your efforts.Ed VA
Reply:Hi Denrep...FarmerSamm...  This is probably a dumb question because you seem to have all the "Right Tools" for the jobs at hand, along with the extensive knowledge for their use; but...  Have you ever tried to "Bend" rebar or similar steel/iron with carbon electrodes ?  I mean by just heating a specific point on the rebar to where it's hot enough to bend by hand ?  I realize you may be the wrong people to ask; but maybe you can point me in the right direction.  I can bend rebar in my forge; but it takes so much wood and time to get even a small job done.  If I can find some Carbon Electrodes, and then find that it's possible, I'll have learned yet even more from this website.Thanks !Ed VA  "It's only impossible if you haven't tried it yet." Originally Posted by denrepThe Lincoln Aerisweld is (was?) A phosphor bronze electrode, conforming to AWS A5.6-76 or ASME SFA5.6. Recommended settings of, DC+ at 50-125 amps for 1/8" size.I don't think bronze electrode is the answer for this stove sealing application, but I thought I'd bring the topic up when I read doubts that it exists. One reason it wouldn't be practical; the bronze electrode would probably cost more than a new stove. Another thing, the low grade cast typically used in stoves is not repair friendly, especially after it has been "baked out" from repeated heat-cool cycles, also the repair will be subject to still more cycles.You'll probably have to go with a grout or packing as has been suggested, and just plan on repacking it every so often.Good Luck
Reply:have you tried liquid gasket the kind you use on car motors? just wondering besides that make rod that are ment to weld on cast iron just pratice first you can do some major damage
Reply:Hello Again Everyone...  To put this thread to rest, I finally got my Wood Stove going yesterday.    I used some of that old Bed Spring Wire to make an Inside frame to keep the sides of the stove from collapsing to the interior of the stove; and the rest to make the 16" long pins that keep the sides from falling to the outside.  The stove is now pretty sturdy; but I intend to dress it up some more.  As far as sealing the leaks, I've been burning Mesquite Limbs to build up the tar on the interior walls to seal the cracks.  Around here, Mesquite Trees are as plentiful as my monthly bills; so there's all kinds of it.  I'm guessing that the built-up tar could be flammable; but I have an old Steel BBQ pit which has literally YEARS of tar built up in it, and it is still going and cooking well.  It doesn't taint any meat as far as I can tell; but because Texas Law mandates the imbibing of beer when you BBQ, it's entirely possible that my taste buds have been somewhat numbed.    Thanks to Everyone for all your  help; and Good BBQ'ing !  Don't forget that beer or some Cutty !  Ed VA
Reply:Creosote is highly dangerous.  That is a major cause of burnt down buildings with fireplaces and stoves.  I can cause your flue to become something akin to a jet engine.  Stop it immediately and build a hot fire in there to burn this stuff out. If it isn't too late anyways.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Originally Posted by lugweldCreosote is highly dangerous.  That is a major cause of burnt down buildings with fireplaces and stoves.  I can cause your flue to become something akin to a jet engine.  Stop it immediately and build a hot fire in there to burn this stuff out. If it isn't too late anyways.
Reply:Originally Posted by BobThe process you are discribing is Everdure welding. Sheet metal shops used it for decades. Everdure rods are silicon/bronze rods. You use an arc gouging rod ina stick machines electrode holder on fairly low amperage and weld like TIG. I've watched some of those sheet metal guys lay out 30" of weld in under a minute. Looks like crap but is a stout weld.
Reply:Hi To All Again ...  LUGWELD...  I LOVE the smell of creosote in the morning; and the flavor it gives to the meat.  It's something like BBQ'ing with old telephone poles !  Just kidding here with ya'.  My firebox is off to one side of the pit; so there is no direct flame in contact with it; and likely as not, little heat either.  I have always thought about the creosote, and kept it in mind; but I've been doing this BBQ thing for at least 45 years, and no problems yet.  It's when I start using "High Technology" that fires start, and I get the beejesus scared out of me.  I once had an air conditioner...  OLD TIMER...  I used to use an old machete for cutting out Mesquite "Bush" from an acre of land I bought.  No one had "Shredders" back then, and a grub hoe was just too heavy to work with all day.  I appreciate how hard that job was though !  I'm in Seguin, Texas, midway between Austin and San Antonio just off IH-10 and highway 123.  MAGNETIC MECHANIC... I have no idea; but most guys just say that welding this thing together would cause more cracks than anything else; but good idea though.  It should be so easy !  He-he  You All Have a GREAT Day !  Ed VA
Reply:yea I think all of these were done with AC..but he can say for sureWhat was the 6 o'clock rod  exactly? was it Harris "sil-fos" type, or a coated rod, or what.