3/16 angle bowing during welding

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Just for grins, I'm trying to piece together a few pieces of 3/16 X 1-1/2 X 1-1/2 angle steel to make one long piece.  In order to keep if from bowing, I clamp and secure both sides of the angle and tack weld each joint. Then I weld all the joints on one side of the angle.  Everything stays straight and all looks good.  (Running 3/32 6010 at about 55 amps.)  When welding the other side of the angle, I make a root pass on each joint and let it cool. The weld shrinks and makes a bend/bow at each joint.  Is there a way to do this without having the steel bow?
Reply:Picts would help. I'm not sure if from what you are saying, just what you are doing. (that didn't come out quite right.)Are you welding both sides of the same leg of the angle and having the bowing issue? OR are you welding the 2nd leg and then having the issue?
Reply:6010 on 3/16 makes no sense to use to weld on both sides.   But if you clamp it on one side,  then you have to clamp it on the other.   Around here, mobile home manufacturer run a weld bead on top of their I Beams at around 400 amps. This is called "running a camber".  It forces the I beam to draw up on the ends and preloads the steel so the I beam won't droop or drop on the ends when they are hauling and setting up.  Any time you weld metal, it is going to draw some.  3/16 especially.  My advice is to use a 7014 or 6013.  A "root" pass is not necessary for such thin material.  You should be able to get complete penetration from one side.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:you could always try using a strong back. that usually seems to keep warpage to a minimun when splicing things together. tack them on both sides, weld it, let it cool, then remove them. there have been times where i have still managed to get some warpage when using them.only thing worse than an ugly woman is an ugly weld
Reply:Yep, I agree, my wording is not the best.  What I meant to say is:1) I'm clamping a "C" clamp and piece of heavy steel on each leg of the angle steel on each side of the joint to be welded (four clamps, 2 pieces of stiffening steel)2) I'm beveling both sides of each weld surface to about half the thickness of the 3/16 steel that will be welded.3) Putting two tack welds on each leg (one at the corner of the angle and one at the outer edge)4) Making a root pass on one leg of the angle (trying to keep the heat down to prevent warpage).5) Letting the root pass cool6) Making a cover pass to assure there is plenty of material in the weld.7) Everything is fine and straight until I weld the other leg of the angle.....that's when the bowing(warping) occurs.8) I thought about trying to "canter" the second leg so when it warps it will somewhere close to straight.The obvious solution is  to just use a new straight piece of steel to start with, but why not push the envelope?  Thanks for the replies so far.
Reply:When welding 3/16, a root pass is unecessary.  All you are doing is overheating and overstressing the metal.  One pass one side, that's it... If you don't ahve complete penetration, Then one pass the other side.  Again, 6013,or 7014. 6010 is absolutely the wrong rod to use...The best welder in the world will have a hard time doing what you are doing without warping.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:I've had to do this a couple of times.  Here's what I do.  I place 3 good tacks.  One on the outside corner, one on each end area.  That material thickness does not require grinding a bevel.  I weld one flat (butt joint), turn it over and immediately weld the opposite side of the flat I just welded.  Now I've got opposite side weld beads counteracting shrinkage and distortion and they sort of equalize themselves.  Do the same with the other flats.I've learned over the years to let weld bead shrinkage help me with my work.
Reply:Originally Posted by no_arcJust for grins, I'm trying to piece together a few pieces of 3/16 X 1-1/2 X 1-1/2 angle steel to make one long piece.(Running 3/32 6010 at about 55 amps.)
Reply:Originally Posted by ericmOK, I'm not any kind of an expert, but isn't 55 amps way way too little current for 3/16?I heard the rule is 1 amp per thousandth of an inch.  So ballpark amps would be 185-190 amps.Do you mean you're going over the same butt joint from the other side, or does 'opposite side'mean the other part of the L-section, from the other side?
Reply:eric,Whever you got your amperage rating from is not pratical.  190 amps would burn the metal up on only 3/16.  Maybe on 1/2 stock or greater. It also depends upon other things i.e. rod diameter.  Whovever gave this to you is wrong.Pa, If I understood the OP right, he isn't getting bowing UNTIL he welds the other side...Maybe I misunderstood him though.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Pa, If I understood the OP right, he isn't getting bowing UNTIL he welds the other side...Maybe I misunderstood him though.[/QUOTE]You're right.  Read the OP again.  Seems like he's clamping the dog fire out of it, waiting for it to cool, then repeating the procedure on reverse.  Wrong way to do it.  It has to be done on both sides in very short time.  Allowing it to cool, or waiting a few and then unclamping, flipping, and welding, is the same as welding just on one side. It's gonna distort.
Reply:Check out the section labeled 'Rule of Thumb':http://www.amtonline.com/publication...ubId=1&id=6376I'd heard it a couple of other places too.With respect to welding both sides, what do you do in the case of a 1 inchtube or such where you can't reach inside easily once the outer weld is done?Perhaps the strength of the tube stops much warping from occuring.
Reply:Originally Posted by ericmCheck out the section labeled 'Rule of Thumb':http://www.amtonline.com/publication...ubId=1&id=6376I'd heard it a couple of other places too.With respect to welding both sides, what do you do in the case of a 1 inchtube or such where you can't reach inside easily once the outer weld is done?Perhaps the strength of the tube stops much warping from occuring.
Reply:Originally Posted by ericmCheck out the section labeled 'Rule of Thumb':http://www.amtonline.com/publication...ubId=1&id=6376I'd heard it a couple of other places too.With respect to welding both sides, what do you do in the case of a 1 inchtube or such where you can't reach inside easily once the outer weld is done?Perhaps the strength of the tube stops much warping from occuring.
Reply:Originally Posted by SupeYou don't weld both sides.  You bevel it and do a full pen joint from one side only.  That's how millions of boiler tubes are welded.