Put the metal to the bevel

admin

Here's a noob question ....   I'm in my 4th semester of welding which turns out to be pipe.I have passed 9 different Tig test (bend test) from 2" to 8", schedule 40 to 160 xhw.  Now I am working on Stick pipe.  I have schedule 80 hw 8" left in 5G and 6G, also  6" xhw in same positions.     My question,  what is the best way to put the most metal into the bevel and still be assured you have good tie in.   I spent a looooong time on my Tig xhw pipe even using 5/32 wire on 150 amps.  With Tig I have heard you can really pour it to it with some fancy manipulation of the wire and torch.  Also, with Stick a former student mentioned how with 1/8 rod you can just stay there and fill up the bevel.     Anybody have experience with this?
Reply:Weave it, thats what I normally do.  Don't hang the rod in the center too long or it will hump up instead of laying flat.  On the 6G position you have to hold the rod a lot longer on the top so it will fill.  I'm working on my 2" right now doing the same thing lol.  Just watch the puddle as you weave and you can see it fill in.
Reply:John:   While working on 8" sch.80 today in 6g position I was weaving and also trying a diamond pattern or a modified form and was putting down some metal. Only getting about 2" before changing rods. Tomorrow I'll preheat and then cap it out and cut/bend. Keeping the fingers crossed to see if everything tied in okay.    The last statement you made is one I've heard before and keeps coming back up and that is " watch the puddle ".   Great advice.  Also, " if you take care of the sides the middle will take care of itself ".tks, war eagle
Reply:hey man you are talkin about fillin a bevel where are you at root,hot pass or cover ? 1/8 5p root with 3/32 7018 on hot pass and cover.If you go over 8" go with 1/8"7018 on hot pass and cover. I agree pay attention to the sides the middle will take care of its selfLast edited by miller lite man; 03-09-2009 at 11:02 PM.
Reply:The best way to ensure proper tie in is to run stringers the whole way out, especially on a 6g.  You need to not get hung up on speed.  If you think it takes a long time to TIG an 8" pipe the whole way out, wait until you get to a site and are filling a 20/10 joint on 30+ inch, 4.5" wall pipe with TIG the entire way out.
Reply:Please tell me nobody actually asked you to do this?  If so, you're a better man than I am, as that's just insane.  It must have taken you weeks to finish? Originally Posted by SupeThe best way to ensure proper tie in is to run stringers the whole way out, especially on a 6g.  You need to not get hung up on speed.  If you think it takes a long time to TIG an 8" pipe the whole way out, wait until you get to a site and are filling a 20/10 joint on 30+ inch, 4.5" wall pipe with TIG the entire way out.
Reply:Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doPlease tell me nobody actually asked you to do this?  If so, you're a better man than I am, as that's just insane.  It must have taken you weeks to finish?
Reply:Supe,  that sure puts things in perspective.  I personally would rather take the time to ensure proper tie in on the side and use stringers or even smaller rods that are easier to control but my instructor says in the field be ready to pour the metal to it Tig or Stick and the larger rod or wire you can use the better.  What kind of torch (volts, air/water), amps and wire size are used for this?  Also if you could enlighten me on the 20/10.   Thanks for the feedback. ,
Reply:War Eagle: Run of the mill water cooled torch, filler depends on how far out they get, nothing crazy.  Maximum allowable of 230 amps based on our WPS's, but they don't usually get that high on the material we're dealing with.  On stuff they stick weld, they'll put out the 5/32 rod and go to town, but again, we have metallurgical limitations that don't always permit this.  Maximum specified deposit thickness per pass is usually from 1/4"-3/8" depending on the material.  The 20/10 is a compound J bevel.  20 degree angle out from the root for the first 1.25" of wall thickness, and then it tapers down to 10 degrees from there.  Greatly reduces the amount of weld area compared to something like a 37 1/2.  Top of the joint on 4.5" wall is just under 2.5" wide with a 20/10.  If we had our narrow groove orbital TIG on it, the joint would be under .900" wide with a 5 degree included angle.Attached is a picture of one of our AMI 52 heads on a narrow groove joint.  This is a thinner walled material than I was discussing above, but larger diameter carbon steel boiler feedwater pipe.  If the fit in the field couldn't be obtained, they'd have to lay that bevel back to a 20/10 to give the operator enough room to at least put in a manual root.  Often, we'll do a manual root and hot, then put an automatic on it for fill and cap. Attached Images
Reply:Supe:  Thanks for the reply and pic of the automatic.  Are automatics the welder of the future or are they limited to the places they can be used?   How hard is it to get training on automatics, what does it take?
Reply:Originally Posted by war eagle 81Supe:  Thanks for the reply and pic of the automatic.  Are automatics the welder of the future or are they limited to the places they can be used?   How hard is it to get training on automatics, what does it take?