How to Arc gouging

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I just picked up arc gouging torch and some 3/16 carbons to run off my Bobcat 250 i have a small cuuting edge i want to remove off a mini excavtor dozer blade. I have never done this before any tips besides the noise and the sparks. i guess i start on one end and work my way back over the welded cutting edge to blow out the weld? what kind of angle do i hold off the cutting edge? I guess the speed I will figure out based on the rod blowing the weld off?
Reply:Look for the fusion line,,,,,   and follow it.  Once you start, you'll know what I mean. Attached ImagesLast edited by mark8310; 03-30-2009 at 06:14 PM.
Reply:Hearing Protection First!!!   Should have at least 200 amps 250 is better but don't over do your Bobcat. What he said and go slow eneough to let the slag clear . Afert while you will get the hang of it . Oh and Hearing Protection!!!
Reply:Just dawned on me your first time.  Make sure when you put your carbon in the holder it is centered in the grove . Air comes out  the bottom or weld side of  the torch.  Supposed to be no more than 7inches of carbon extented past the holder but somtimes you gota do what you gota do. All the air you can give it.  Hearing Protection also helps the sparks from doing nothing but net shots in your ear.
Reply:Also keep your cut mainly on the side you're going to throw away. Just cut enough of the bucket side to get rid of the weld.                          MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Get set up as described above, and then fire up the welder and compressor.  With all necessary safety gear on, and a work space cleared of flammables for at least 30ft down stream from the cut, begin.  Place rod in holder aligned with grooves in the head.  Keep air holes on the bottom side, closest to the material being gouged. Have a couple inches of the gouging rod extended out  Angle the carbon at about 30 degrees, using a push, or leaning back from the direction of travel.  A steeper angle will gouge more deeply into the metal.  A shallower angle less deep of a cut.  Very gently scratch the carbon rod over the surface to be gouged.  The arc will ignite, and a stream of molten metal and slag will be pushed ahead of the rod, in the direction of travel.  Make your gouge as a series of shallow passes, not just one deep pass.  You'll get more consistent depth of gouging that way, and are less likely to remove too much material.  It takes little or no pressure to arc gouge.  Ideally, once the arc ignites, you don't even have to touch the surface with the rod.  But you may find that you'll have to lightly scratch the surface with the rod in order to keep the arc lit.  The more you touch the surface, the faster your carbon rod will errode.  You'll find with some practice that you can control the shape of the rod tip by manipulating the angle of the rod while gouging.  You can shape the tip to a narrower point or keep it blunt so the arc gouges a wide path through the steel.I've only used the larger gouging rods, so the last may not apply to smaller diameter rods.  David R did a good post a few months ago on the virtues of gouging with small diameter carbon rods.  Do a search for it and you'll find some more good advice...Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector