Metal cutting blade for chopsaw

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Hey guys,I'm pretty new here to welding, just got a new Lincoln 180 MIG, and I need a better way to cut my scrap metal to practice on.  I'm wondering what a good general purpose metal cutting blade for my Firestorm chop saw would be?  I have some angle iron and other scrap laying around that would be what I'd want to cut.  It currently has the 10" stock wood cutter on it.  I've seen the abrasive types that seem to be cheaper and after further investigation I've discoverd some that are more "true blades" that are more expensive.  I'm currently using a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutting wheel and blowing through those like you read about.  Any help would be appreciated.Thanks,Dan.Last edited by HDH; 06-09-2009 at 02:04 PM.Reason: grammar
Reply:If your chopsaw is designed for wood don't put metal cutting blades on it. You will ruin the saw! They are not designed to run those blades and the sparks, dust, and wear will cook that saw fast.Dedicated metal cutting chop saws come in basically 2 types, those designed to run the abrasive blades, and those designed to run the carbide metal blades. The RPM's are different depending on the blade it is designed to use.Available options also include: Sawzall, portable bandsaw, stationary bandsaw, electric hacksaw, OA torch, circular saw with special metal blades (usually for thin plate), plasma cutter. Each has a different use depending on what you plan to cut and how nice the cut needs to be as well as price.
Reply:HDH, my advice to you is to go with what DSW suggests and and go with the O/A approach if it's at all feasible. good way to start developing a steadier hand. i remember back when i took my course, my instructor wouldn't let us use anything but a cutting torch for the first 6 months.
Reply:Thanks guys.  The only thing I had ever used was a torch when I used to do any fabrication and have been wanting to get one ever since I purchased my machine.  I won't put anything else on my saw, and I'm definitely in the market for a small torch set now.Thanks again,Dan.
Reply:Check here   http://www.bulletindustries.com/Shop...orLanding/trueThey make high speed metal cutting blades and they work great. I have a 7 1/4" and I made 4 cuts through 1/2" steel bout 4" long. Thinner stuff cuts like butter.JimCut an MGB and widened 11" C4 Corvette suspension and LT1 Chevrolet power & 6 spd. Pictures here:Part 1http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,7581Part 2http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,22422
Reply:Originally Posted by Jim StabeCheck here   http://www.bulletindustries.com/Shop...orLanding/trueThey make high speed metal cutting blades and they work great. I have a 7 1/4" and I made 4 cuts through 1/2" steel bout 4" long. Thinner stuff cuts like butter.Jim
Reply:You have to match the RPMs of the saw to the blade.  And the lower the RPMs, generally, the longer blade life you'll see.  And I don't think most blades will do more than 1/4" -- at least not for very long.  There are some 7-1/4" blades that can handle over 2000 RPMs, but not a lot of 10-inchers.  You could get away with 10" abrasive disks -- Home Depot sells them for less than $10 each.  But 1) I'd guess that sooner or later you'll run into problems with the motor and the dust, and 2) there's a safety issue if you don't come up with a good way to clamp down the steel you're cutting.Still, a dry-cut saw is a really pleasant way to cut steel.  The low-rpm Evolution saws are pretty cheap.  And you can get (Italian) steel-cutting blades by Freud for ~$30 a pop through ebay.
Reply:Originally Posted by HDHThanks guys.  The only thing I had ever used was a torch when I used to do any fabrication and have been wanting to get one ever since I purchased my machine.  I won't put anything else on my saw, and I'm definitely in the market for a small torch set now.Thanks again,Dan.
Reply:you might want to consider a horizontal bandsaw.  I just got a Delta, but they're all pretty similar (harbor freight, JET, grizzly...etc all the usual suspect)  if you maintain it right, HF ones will last a long time, just dont buy cheap blades.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenYou have to match the RPMs of the saw to the blade.  And the lower the RPMs, generally, the longer blade life you'll see.  And I don't think most blades will do more than 1/4" -- at least not for very long.  There are some 7-1/4" blades that can handle over 2000 RPMs, but not a lot of 10-inchers.  You could get away with 10" abrasive disks -- Home Depot sells them for less than $10 each.  But 1) I'd guess that sooner or later you'll run into problems with the motor and the dust, and 2) there's a safety issue if you don't come up with a good way to clamp down the steel you're cutting.Still, a dry-cut saw is a really pleasant way to cut steel.  The low-rpm Evolution saws are pretty cheap.  And you can get (Italian) steel-cutting blades by Freud for ~$30 a pop through ebay.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jim StabeCheck here   http://www.bulletindustries.com/Shop...orLanding/trueThey make high speed metal cutting blades and they work great. I have a 7 1/4" and I made 4 cuts through 1/2" steel bout 4" long. Thinner stuff cuts like butter.Jim