Can't see my joint (welding joint)

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I have a little problem. When I'm welding a joint I can't see my line. I'm always going off the area I'm trying to weld. I use an autodark helmet and have tried all the settings. I wear 3.0 reading glasses under the helmet. I've tried markers of all differant colors still can't see the line. I can see the arc and puddle but no line. Any suggestions ? thanks.
Reply:Have you only tried the one helmet?Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Get a gold or silver lens shade 9-10, I can see joints 10x better in one of them than compared to an auto dark or green tint lens.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:I also have a jackson flip type. are those lenses for autodark or flip. thanks
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenHave you only tried the one helmet?
Reply:They make lenses for your welding helmet (kind of like bifocals).  You could maybe try those and ditch the reading glasses.  Also make sure your lenes aren't scratched or dirty.  Depending on what your welding you could always use a center punch and follow the dotted line.  Also,  if your TIG or MIG welding,  try using a smaller cup.
Reply:Get the gold style and get it in a number 8. Try not to look directly at the arc but concentrate on the puddle. Also, a light on the work will help you see it better. If you are doing most of your welding outside you might want to try a pancake. I had the same problem when welding outside until I got the pancake.
Reply:Hm, that's strange. Usually I have problems with surfacing/overlay because there's no lines to follow, but joints I can follow a little easier.You said you can see the arc and the puddle... can you see the rest of the plate/material?How much experience do you have?Keeping it down in the hood...literally!
Reply:not much experience here, but outside I have problems with light coming from behind. I find a towel over the head running down the back (under helmet headgear) helped me a lot, at least I can see what I am doing.  I need to find a better long term solution,-- fredLincoln 180C MIG
Reply:If you are welding and the ambient light is not too good try putting extra light in the form of hand lamp or anglepoise etc on to the work area,making sure it does not affect your auto sensor screen, this works well for me and others that have tried it, Good luck.Lincoln SP-170 MigHypertherm powermax 45Lorch T220 AC/DC TigButters FM 215 synergic MigKemppi 180 adaptive mig RULES ARE FOR THE OBEDIENCE OF FOOLS AND THE  GUIDANCE OF WISE MEN.
Reply:If you're just doing beads on plate and can't see the line, try running a groove down the line with a grinder, then weld.  Or, do your beads overlapping.  Weld one bead, then weld the next one centered on the toe line of the previous bead and overlap half the previous bead with the new bead.  Continue on in that fashion and you will have a 'built up' plate surface, with no peaks and valleys, if done right.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Being into old fartdom I some times have the same problem, marking the joint with a soap stone (white line) seems to work best for me, Back light also but as Gordon said It some times jacks with the auto sensor.DaKK
Reply:use soapstone to draw a line in the center of the joint.  works well.Salas Repair General Welding & Fabrication
Reply:I sometimes have that problem welding inside, usually use a hand held #10 (instructor's sheild) and the back lighting (spot light) trick works for me, as others have suggested. I'm a geezer so my eyes do not always perform the same everyday. Working out in the sunlight tipped me off to that little trick. Never found chalk marks to be that helpful.