chrome steel vs. stainless?

admin

I'm working on a project and need ball bearings in 1" and 1.5" sizes.  i have found both sizes in SS and chrome steel.  the stainless ones are considerable more expensive- so i'm wondering if i can get away with the chrome steel ones.  i need a material that is hypo-allergenic, and does not corrode when exposed to air or a variety of bodily fluids.will the chrome steel work, or will i have to suck it up and buy the stainless?Thanks!
Reply:Tell us more about the end use for these parts...  You mention bodily fluids...If this is for some kind of extreme body art/piercing, you should be looking at stainless steel....If there's something else that sees exposure to bodily fluids; please explain further...Inquiring minds want to know...Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:i would go with SS since  it will be less likely to cause problems ,with people that have allergic reactions to steel chrome can chip or flake off (chrome will rust)if you are thinking of body jewerly go with stainless
Reply:i am manufacturing custom made fetish and bondage equipment.  this particular piece is an insertable-  U-shaped rod with the two balls welded to the ends, then polished to a mirror shine.  the rod will travel through the balls, and will be welded on the opposite side to eliminate having to grind and polish the harder to reach areas where the rod enters the balls.I am assuming that chrome steel is different than chromED steel, in that the alloy contains the chromium, and is different than chrome pating.  No plating that i'm aware of will stand up to having a hole bored through it.So, no- no peircing involved here,, but bodily fluids galore.thanks!
Reply:At a bare minimum 304 SS327 or 321 might be better? not sure
Reply:FOR sure the SS - that chrome won't hold up in the environment.  Shell out the extra bucks and do it right the first time!  Have a Jeep Cherokee?  Click Here!
Reply:****. not what i was hoping to hear, even if it is what i expected to hear. lolthanks for the advice peeps!
Reply:I'm thinking he's referring to chrome molly 4130 steel? No flaking will happen with that.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Honestly, i dont know- they dont say much about the material on their page.I'm looking at these.Perhaps i need to call them in the morning.
Reply:Hmmm, I hadn't thought of that!  Might be a good point!Have a Jeep Cherokee?  Click Here!
Reply:Both can be taken to a very high luster. The stainless will very slightly oxidize slightly faster than the chrome. A good wax will keep the luster of either longer.Sheet Metal
Reply:Regular ball bearings are typically SAE 52100, more corrosion resistant than mild steel but not good enough for things that will be inserted in people whether you're making your own hole or using an existing onestainless steels for body piercing and jewelry clicky
Reply:That would be a cool product line to be producing,...I think.    Any way. Two things you need to consider. First, go with stainless but it needs to be of a "sanitary" grade. I'm not sure which is required, 304, 316, etc. but it need to be medical grade, if for no other reason than liability issues. Second, you mentioned the rod being through a hole in the ball bearings and welded on exit side. This presents 2 problems.    First, and most important....if rod goes through a hole in ball bearing, both the entry side and exit side of hole needs to be seal welded. If not you are leaving a small, unclean able craves/crack on the entry side where fluids, bacteria, etc...will collect and fester.    Second problem. Are you planning on drilling the holes in the ball bearings? This will prove to be very difficult being that bearing balls are heat treated and hardened...    A suggestion,,,,High grade stainless ball valves use nice round balls for the throttle mech. These balls are polished to a mirror finish, and comply with sanitary codes. They come with machined through holes and in all sizes. You don't have to buy the whole valve($$), most industrial supply stores sell rebuild kits for a fraction of the valve cost. No polishing, drilling, or guessing about materials. Just weld balls to rod and plug away.HA! Good luck with your freaky metal works!Last edited by wagin; 11-11-2009 at 02:14 AM.Reason: additionMiller TrailBlazer 251Miller HF-250-1Miller MaxStar 150 STLHyperTherm PowerMax 380 plasmaLincoln PowerMig 180Millermatic 252Miller Diversion 180
Reply:If you were to drill entirely through the balls, you would need to seal weld both ends.  Otherwise, as stated above, the crevice left behind would be highly unsanitary.Instead of through drilling the balls, and seal welding both ends, it would be easier to just drill one end, and just seal weld that.Personally, if it were me, I wouldn't even bother drilling at all, just weld the rod to the ball, and be done with it.  Drilling into ball bearings is no fun task.
Reply:Originally Posted by FirePhageI'm working on a project and need ball bearings in 1" and 1.5" sizes.  i have found both sizes in SS and chrome steel.  the stainless ones are considerable more expensive- so i'm wondering if i can get away with the chrome steel ones.  i need a material that is hypo-allergenic, and does not corrode when exposed to air or a variety of bodily fluids.will the chrome steel work, or will i have to suck it up and buy the stainless?Thanks!
Reply:this thread is worthless without pictures
Reply:Originally Posted by oxy moronthis thread is worthless without pictures
Reply:broccoli is a pervert like me! lol  kudo's for coming up with pics from jt's stockroom so fast! lmaoand yes- this is a very interesting line of work- alot of unique pieces to design, and i always reserve the try to do a test fitting hehe!I was also thinking that welding only on one side of the ball woulld be a bad idea.  so i'm going to look into the ball valves, or just weld the rod right to the ball without screwing with drilling holels in them. and i figured that drilling through the balls would be a nightmare, which i wasnt looking forward to. hehethanks all!
Reply:Stainless.  I'd say 304 at a 'minimum', 316 as 'better'.  Hey, pretty much what hotrodders's link at the UK site mentioned.  And make -sure- it is smooth and there are no pits or crevices or seams as trap-points for 'crud.  No 'drilling' a hole and inserting the bar and then only welding the 'outside' joint    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:the rod will travel through the balls
Reply:Originally Posted by mackdxI assume you mean the metal balls....
Reply:No suggestions, just one more place to check if you haven't seen this one already.http://www.abbottball.com/products/s...sion-balls.php
Reply:Thanks Sandy! i have seen their site- plan on buying some of their finishing media soon!As for my request for sources of stainless balls- nevermind- i just found them- duh!thanks!!!
Reply:are the balls at the end welded on or is there some kind of all thread between the shaft and the ball, for interchangeable size balls?
Reply:Here's one I found.  http://www.craigballsales.com/balls-...s-steel-balls/