|
|
I am in the process of making this desk for my computer. I need to find a piece of glass for the top and i am gonna add a couple shelves for my tower/subwoofer. Glass prices vary enormously but i am still looking around. I really like the sandblasted frost look, i dont really want just clear. Its gonna be flat crinkle black powdercoat. Its 60"X30", 32" tall, and its made of 1.5" 1/8th wall tubing. Any input about using glass like this? Does it need to be tempered or just well supported? I can add as many supports as needed. I want the glass flush with no overhang. I want to make sure its safe! It will have a 22" mitsubishi crt monitor on it and keyboard and thats it. Comments and ideas are always welcome??? Thanks! I am using a folding table now so i can't wait to get if finished Attached Images
Reply:Hi blownnova,I don't think that using glass as a computer desktop is a very good idea. I have worked on systems for the last 25 years and have had an up close view of what they do to a desktop. First of all your monitor is going to throw some heat onto the glass. Then there is the chance of scratching the glass which will cause it to break when moving things on the desktop. You will also have to take into account how much weight besides the equipment you will be putting on the top. Most people don't realize that they put a lot of weight on the top of a desk just buy having their arm leaning on it. Play a game of solitaire and you will see what I am talking about. Even the people with the best posture will tend to slouch a little and rest themselves on the top. Most people that have glass computer desks have the monitor sitting below the top and they look down at it through the glass.Neil
Reply:fallon is right depending on the glass and the base. I have glass top L shape workstation at my house but it has two cross members closer to the center of the glass and a keyboard tray. and a a LCD monitor not a mitz big screen.You need a real thick piece for your deisign.
Reply:My $.02. A 22" CRT will weigh 50 to 80 lbs. My CAD station had (operative word "had") a 21" Nokia. It was so heavy, it ripped the desk surface off the cubicle walls. If you're set on using a glass top, I'd recommend no less than 1/2" and I'd also run an additional support or two under the glass where the monitor is to go. I'd also recommend a thin cushion, like a large mouse pad, between the monitor base and the glass. It will absorb and even out some of the pressure should you move the monitor. What about splitting the desk top surface such that the monitor rests directly on the frame and the desk surface to the sides is glass? Not only will it eliminate the breaking issue, but you'll probably spend less for glass.There are no small projects
Reply:what about lexan ????
Reply:[I can add as many supports as needed.] I missed this until I re-read your post. You already addressed it to some degree.Your work looks good too.
Reply:Thanks for the posts guys! I am not dead set on using glass, I just like the way that it looks. I think that it looks kind of modern and has a clean look. Someone else suggested lexan or plexiglass as well, but in my experience that stuff scratches pretty easy. I have only seen it in race car windows though, not in an application like this. Where would i even look for a piece of lexan that size? I havent put any of the supports in because i dont know what will be needed and how far apart. Same with the shelves, i need to know the thickness of what i am gonna be using before i actually build them. Does tempered glass scratch and break this easy? I know it costs a lot more, but other than that i have no idea about using glass. You are right on the weight of the monitor its fairly heavy.Some other suggestions have been a laminate top, i have a buddy that owns a cabinet shop, he can get about any color i want for pretty cheap. Dont really know how to dress the edges of that though to make it look right? He can also get solid surface for a fair price, like corian. I also looked into using a piece of cherry veneer plywood with solid edges, and finished with whatever stain and cleared over the top? Could be any type of wood too, I like cherry and maple, especially fiddleback or birdseye maple. Someone also suggested granite with finished edges, I think that is gonna be very costly. I dont really wanna use floor tile like granite or travertine as i want it smooth, with no seams(also a suggestion). I just want it to look nice, be strong and wear well.I like the way steel looks when it is used well with other materials that soften it down some, or contrast it. The materials thus far were pretty cheap and theres not much labor in it at this point. Not dead set on color either the black is just something that i saw and really liked. I have put some consideration into a steel bed frame as well and i think that would be black. They are both in the same room, at least till i got an office. Sorry for the long post but i wanted to adress what you guys talked about, hope i did and thanks.
Reply:If unique and inexpensive are your goals, what about concrete? I made a 1" thick top for a rolling kitchen cart using high strength mortar mix. I added some black colorant too. To keep weight down, I fastened a few pieces of 3/4" plywood on the floor of the form to leave a few voids in the underside of the top. It took some work to make the top smooth using a large flat file and water, but when done, it looked pretty cool. I forgot to add that when done, I sprayed several coats of clear polyurethane on all surfaces.There are no small projects
Reply:I have seen concrete counter tops in kitchens some and it looks nice in some applications but i dont think that it would look right as a desktop. I didnt mean to sound like money is a huge issue on building this desk. I dont mind paying whats needed for what i want. I mainly want to be happy with it when its done. How does concrete act when you are hitting on it in an application like you used it. Or when you drop stuff on it, is it pretty sturdy in that thickness?
Reply:I have a p.c. desk with glass tops. It initially had frosted glass, but man was that a pain. I have sinced swapped to tinted glass and it works well. Use suction cups fixed to the frame so the glass doesn't scoot around on the top.
Reply:Originally Posted by blownnovaHow does concrete act when you are hitting on it in an application like you used it. Or when you drop stuff on it, is it pretty sturdy in that thickness?
Reply:You don't say where you live but I'd recommend going to a place that replaces glass windows, does mirrors, etc.. I deal with one here in Raleigh and they can do all kinds of things reasonably for you. I have personally seen 1/4" plate glass mirrors pulled off walls, without breaking, where they had been glued on with gobs of glue.Here are a couple of ideas:Go look in furniture stores at glass table tops and you will get an idea of thickness. I had a kitchen table that was about 1/4" that hung over the edges about 10". Now I wouldn't put a 50# box on the edge but consider that your glass is supported on all 4 edges.My wifes china cabinets have plain glass shelves that are about 3/16" thick. I know its not 1/4" Granted they are only about 12" wide but there is a heck of an amount of weight on them.Many outside table tops are glass. They are 3/16" or less. They are tempered glass so sharp and hard smack will break it. Think of car side/back windows or storm doors breaking from a stone impact. However tempered is very strong if not sharply hit. I have personally bounced off a 4x7 sliding glass door (full tilt) that I had forgot that I had just closed. I have thrown them 10' down in dumpsters and not have them break.I have a big round coffee table top that is 3/4" plate glass and nothing is going to break that (short of a big hammer).Be sure to put those little soft plastic disks under the glass to support it. I would say 1 on each corner, 1 in middle of each short side and a couple spaced out on the long sides. If the steel isn't 100% flat then stack disks to compensate. The glass needs to be evenly supported.I'd think 1/2" thick would be more than enough. Even 1/4" if you put a middle support (front to back).Go ask an experienced glass place and they will steer you right.Hobbiest hack
Reply:My experience (limited) with glass is that it's expensive to get it tempered in a decent size and thickness. And, it doesn't add much character to the piece- your metalworking and design skills will really have to stand on their own.Wood, if you have the skills, is much cheaper and easier to work with, and you'll never have to worry about breakage. I recently built a desk for my wife, and while my wood finishing skills leave a bit to be desired it came out OK- I used cabinet plywood for the field (nice face, though wicked thin veneer on 5/8" stock) with 2" x 1/2" laid flat oak for the edging. It came out pretty nice, and I agree with you about the contrasting materials, really adds to the composition. I'll take some shots of it later and share the finished product with you. In the future I'll use the Oak faced plywood. Twice the price, but better material to work with. When you're spending all that time making it look nice, you might as well not let the materials limit the final product. Laminate, IMO, almost always looks cheap, unless integrated with wood (wood banding around the edge, say 2" picture frame?). No fake patterns , as these usually look fake. Again, my opinion.I've also done some stone topped tables. Nice, but heavy! Here's a picture of one of those. The flagstone (Colorado red sandstone, 1.25" +/-) makes it pretty much indestructable, as it's very well supported. Attached Images
Reply:fallon, what kind of effects have you seen on glass from heat? I had my monitor on since last night, probably 8 hours or more and the table is still cold to the touch. The house is about 70 degrees in the morning when i get up.I Live in Mesa Arizona dave. Plenty of glass shops as well as furniture shops out here. I have looked at quite a few computer desks with glass for a top.I like to see what others make before i start on my projects, helps with ideas. Some had suprisingly thin glass tops.Nice work slooney, I like stuff thats differant and uses materials that others wouldnt always think about using.The glass guy that my cabinet friend uses said that 1/4 smoked glass would be plenty thick if it is well supported. He said if i were to hang it over the edge some it would be even stronger. I asked about scratches making it weak and he said it would have to be a scratch like a glass cutter would make. Even at that it would take substantial force to break it off. His price was $73.00 for the top and $10.00 for each shelf in 1/4 inch. Thats with a rounded edge too. Not tempered.On the other hand i do ok with the woodworking stuff as well. I stopped at my local hardwood supplier on the way home today and he had some really nice veneer plywoods i liked. Just about every kinda wood in 3/4 thick 4x8 sheets. I really liked the maple, cherry and also black walnut. I could picture frame a piece of ply really easily and clear it. So i am really undecided now. Great post guys i really appreciate the reply's!
Reply:I read something the otherday that I did not know. You can powder coat MDF board. That is really cool because it's so easy to make shapes and router the edges really nice and smooth. Then with Powder Coat and the kind of finish would be unmatched.Apparently MDF holds just enough moister to hold a static charge for the crosslink to occur.
Reply:Just to add my 2 pennies. My brother works for a concrete flooring company. They polish the concrete to a marble like gloss. When you stand down a long hallway and look down it it appears like wet glass. It's really impressive. I used his hand grinder last week to polish an old slate from a pool table to use for a vanity top. oh yeah - they also throw agggregate and somtimes glass in the crete for a wicked look.Johnny
Reply:BlownNova The table looks great! One place you can look for the glass would be IKEA they are in Tempe not ot far to go or call about the glass. they have glass that is priced pretty good. I say not that far is because in your part of the country people think 5 miles is too far!!!! Good luck!!! And yes YOU HAVE TO USE TEMPERED GLASS!!!!Slooney Nice table!! I like the rebar and expanded metal look!
Reply:Originally Posted by blownnovafallon, what kind of effects have you seen on glass from heat? I had my monitor on since last night, probably 8 hours or more and the table is still cold to the touch. The house is about 70 degrees in the morning when i get up.
Reply:Blownnova-Here is a shot of the wood topped desk. As you can see, I've a ways to go on wood finishes, but I think it shows the potential of such a method.Thanks for the praise regarding the other table. I enjoy making things out of parts intended for other functions. Attached Images
Reply:Here is a glass table top at Roush Racing. I think its in their Michigan location. Note that the frame is made up of two winston cup engines. Attached ImagesLast edited by DaveD; 01-27-2006 at 11:59 AM.Hobbiest hack
Reply:That a very nice looking table slooney i really like it, nice choice on the color too. That table at roush is pretty cool too, they make some wicked stuff there. That piece of glass is pretty large.As of now i am still undecided. I have to go up north to my cabin and finish installing some railings i made on a deck i built with my father. I will post some pics of that when its done. Thanks guys! |
|