How to pick the correct welding shade for different types of welding?

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HeyFor MIG and Flux core welding, do you need a differently rated shade. We have a # 10, and don't know how to tell when we could need a darker shade like a 12 for example. Somewhere we read about looking at a bare light bulb to see if you can see the outline of it as an indicator of needing a darker shade. We are just learning about welding and would like to know when an auto darkening system is better and how to pick a good one.Thanksink cartridges
Reply:Originally Posted by pittersonHeyFor MIG and Flux core welding, do you need a differently rated shade. We have a # 10, and don't know how to tell when we could need a darker shade like a 12 for example. Somewhere we read about looking at a bare light bulb to see if you can see the outline of it as an indicator of needing a darker shade. We are just learning about welding and would like to know when an auto darkening system is better and how to pick a good one.Thanks
Reply:Most auto dark helmets are adjustable.  I darken or lighten so I can see the puddle and maybe a bit around the area.
Reply:Charts are good to get you in the ballpark.  To get the right shade for you, you shouldnt' see spots when you are finished welding yet you should see the puddle clearly. If you see the kind of spots you see after getting your picture taken with a flash camera your lens is to light, too dark and you will strain your eyes to see the puddle.Last edited by Eyesolator; 12-08-2009 at 09:25 AM.
Reply:Miller, lincoln, ESAB and AWS all provide free information on choosing the correct shade lens.
Reply:according to that chart, you'd use "less" lens for FCAW as compared to MIG.  I find it the opposite.  I have only tried FCAW a few times, but it was much brighter than MIGin the same material.  It was so bright that I couldn't see the puddle, just a a boat load of really bright arc!  At the time, I was using a fixed shade (#10) auto darkening helmet.
Reply:Well if your going to do something like spray transfer then you would go with a #11 while short circuit would continue to be #9 - #10.  With stick / mig / tig regular welding I have so far stuck with #9 - #10 shade settings on my miller pro hobby and only used #11 when doing spray transfer mig due to the amount of light output from the process.  With the bit of flux core I did I also kept the shade settings at the lower end when using the short circuit method.
Reply:I guess, no I know my eyes are going, but I use a #9 and still can't see where to weld.  Eyesolator, I am gonna take your advice and step down to a #8.Right now I am MIG welding 1.75 tube  with a Hobart 210 on #4 heat setting, and have problems following the miter joints.
Reply:My auto hood adjusts 9-13, or thereabouts.  Alot of things affect what shade is best.  Welding at night or in a dark area, turn it down.   Out in bright sunlight, turn it up.  Low amp tig, turn it down.  Stick, usually somewhere in the middle.  High amp mig/flux, turn it up.  Plasma or oxy/fuel, I use a #5 fixed lens in another hood.  I keep an extra fixed hood on the truck with a #11 for times when the battery goes out in the auto. #10 is too light for bright sunlight most of the time.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:If you have an auto dark hood, run a bead. If you cant see much at all, make it lighter, if you see spots after your done, make it a little darker. If you have a solid shield, do the same just change your lenses. Thats how i do it. Simple and easy.
Reply:i do mostly stick and tig welding and use a shade 10 or 11 all the time
Reply:Bought a #9 Gold lens today and will give a test tomorrow.  Just looking thru it at a light, seems to give a clearer view.