Welding table "Top"

admin

Hey all, I'm in the process of putting togather a weld table (2nd project), and have a 3'x5' sheet of 1/8 steel.  I'm not wanting to spend $500 bucks on a table top and wondered what, if any, suggestions ya'll have to beef up the top?  I plan on reinforcing the table top by putting angle braces across the 3' length every say 1.5' or so.  but now i'm thinking that tacking work to the table and grindin it off is going to leave me with holes.  the original sheet was 65bucks, should i double it up?  thanks for any advise.
Reply:1/8 is way too thin for a table top, it bends too easy and warps.  You want at least 3/8" from what I've been told and which is what I bought for 250 bucks for a 4x8' sheet.   Its a heavy sucker. If you cant afford that, then obviously 1/4" is your next bet.  That will run you 150.00 , also for a 4x8'
Reply:At least if you go with 1/8" you can change it out at some point later.  1/8" will warp when heated.    Even with lots of bracing.  Build the frame to hold much heavier metal than 1/8".  I would go for it.  It appears you have little to lose, since you already have the metal.  I would not double up.  Do not allow for any overhang.I made my table out of 1/8" 8 years ago, just never got around to changing it out.   It is quite warped. Though I use it every day for building handrails, though.  I don't tack to the table. I usually tack to a something laying on the table.Heavier would be better, though not mandatory.  A thin guage top is like an old pickup, perhaps nobody can understand how to operate it but you.Last edited by tapwelder; 04-24-2006 at 01:35 PM.
Reply:hey, thanks for the input guys.  i stopped at the local steel supply last night to get some drops and the guy suggested piecing a few pieces of plate togather, however all they had in the yard were scraps of dimond plate.  How about this?  I've got some 3/16x3" i'd like to use for an overhang.  i'll lay that around 3 sides and leave 1 side flat.  for now, i'll lay the 1/8" on the table and use the grinder to put some slits in it for puddle welds throughout the top and then grind them flat.  with the overhang and rib reinforced middle, i should be able to piece in some 1/4" as i come across it at the recycle center or drop yard.  Tapwelder, your right on with the "old truck" analogy.  thanks for the input.  it always helps to think out loud.
Reply:It's not ideal, but I once had a table with a top that thin. It was free. I made a table top first with some inch thick composite sheet timber. Not sure what you guys call it over there. We call it particle board or chip board. It's the stuff used under laminate for kitchen benchtops. I put it down first and then glued the thin metal to it. Lasted for years.Scott
Reply:[QUOTE=We call it particle board or chip board. It's the stuff used under laminate for kitchen benchtops. I put it down first and then glued the thin metal to it. Lasted for years.Scott[/QUOTE]Yea, we call it particle board too.  see, we're not all that different, just on opposite sides of the planet.  The steel coverd wood top is my second option as i'd like to be able to tack to the top and am concerned with burnin down the garage.  I know, being carful and makin sure there's no smoldering goin on before i leave the garage would prevent this, but if it wasn't for bad luck, i'd have no luck at all.  so for now i'll work on piecin in 1/4" plate on top of the 1/8".  that'll give me a nice solid top someday when the "plate steel fairy" drops some of it off in my yard.  thanks.
Reply:I would be VERY careful about heating the top to the point of making the wood smoke. A lot of the composite , glued together boards have glue in them that has a very toxic smoke/fumes. I was told they have formaldehyde glues, etc. I would do a bit of research into it for safety's sake.Just my  opinion, not from a book, just from the road.Howes Welding Inc.www.howesweldinginc.com