Is this welder good enough for what I want to do?

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hi. I'm new and would like to learn to weld my own stuff. For christmas my wife bought me a chicago electric 94164 welder from harbour freight. it's 220v 110amp flux/mig for steel,alum,and stainless. I want to weld stuff like a cage in my mustang, mini tubs and furniture. Will this work for me? I've been looking on harbour freight's site at another one also, maybe to go back and exchange for. model# 93793, 230v 160amp mig/flux w/ or w/o gas for 22ga up to 1/4 thick. which one's better for me? thanks russell
Reply:i'd like to try to keep the smaller one because they are out of stock the bigger one so is the 94164 still good enough?
Reply:The 110 amp unit should be fine welding non-critical items under 1/8" thick.  The 160 amp unit would be a much better choice for more all-around use.Save the cage project for MUCH later down the road after you have plenty of experience under your belt.  The other around the house projects will be good learning experiences for you.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:thanks, awesome site..
Reply:Hey R.G.,From experience with these units, I can tell you the 110A unit will be ok to 1/8" & possibly 3/16' w/flux-core....once you get some seat-time in. With f/c, you need to get good wire such as Lincoln or Hobart wire as the HF f/c wire has poor reviews. You would be better with the 97503 unit, 151T2, as it is a 120A unit, although, personally, I would wait to get the 171 mod at 160A. I have seen the 151T2(120A) at my local HF on sale for $149 & the 171 on sale for $249....& with the present 15% coupon, it is a better investment. At one time, the original mod. 171T2 was rated at 170A & was a good unit to start with. For some reason, it was discontinued & changed to the mod 171 @ 160A.I have the original Chicago Elec. Mod 151T2(120A) that was made in Italy & with the capacitor mod, it will put out 135A. I also have the original CE160 which is made in Italy & does 160A, & is the predecessor to the 171T2. Both have worked flawlessly for years. Get the 171....you won't be sorry. Here's some pics.Denny Attached ImagesComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:thanks. I took the 94164 back. they are out of the 93793's even the warehouse also. Any other reccomendations? Cheap starter ($300-400)for what I want to do? Thanks in advance. I will check HF again and look at the model you suggested.
Reply:what should i look for as far as amps to be able to weld rollcages, furniture, axletubes etc.?
Reply:Originally Posted by R.G.what should i look for as far as amps to be able to weld roll cages, furniture, axle tubes etc.?
Reply:class is in the summer/ future when work picks back up., but, I reallly want to get a feel for this. I was thinking of one of the millers from home depot or lowes are these any good? like a 180hd? i saw on here a guy building a table with a Lincoln weldpak 3200hd with some heavy tubing. BTW the cage is eventual but i got some other stuff i want to do before I touch my car.
Reply:Depot and Lowes carrys Lincoln not Millers at least where I live. The models made for them are a bit cheaper than the standard Lincoln models, but not too bad. The 180 class machines are alright, but personally I find most guys can quickly out grow them and really need the next step up. One thing with Hobart. Lincoln, Miller machines is that they hold their value well. You'll get more for one used than you do the cheap import machines when you go to sell it and upgrade. Don't forget to look at CL. I often see the 180 class Lincolns up for sale from guys that have upgraded. Frequently they are in very good shape.My personal recommendation for most new guys is the MM211. It's a hard machine to out grow. You get a machine that is the best of both worlds as it runs on 110v at limited power or 220v at 200 or so amps. The down side is it's not a cheap machine. If money's a real issue you might also look at the Hobarts. They're a good machine and generally cheaper than similarly powered Lincolns and Millers. I think Broccoli posted the Hobart 210 with spoolgun for like $850 from Northern a while back. Thats a tough machine to beat at the price..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:DSW thanks for the help. I looked at the Hobart and Miller. The Miller was a little more but I liked the Hobart because it comes with a spool gun? northern has the Hobart 210 for $899 and somewehre on the web the miller was $970. What do you think? thanks Russ
Reply:A spoolgun is nice if you plan to do alum. In fact it's pretty much a requirement. Also you could load small rolls of say Flux core wire in it and leave the solid in the machine or vise versa. I've got a spoolgun for my mig. I got it to do alum, but also use it to run different wires that I don't need much of. Often it's loaded with .023 solid to do thin stuff while the big roll of .030/.035 stays in the machine. I do have one 2lb spool of FC just in case. All in all I don't use the spool gun much however. I just don't have that much alum or thin stuff to do most times.For me I'd want the 110v/220v capability of the MM211. I'm frequently handicapped by the need to find 220V to run my machine at my buddy's shop. We ran a special line and breaker to his barn so we could do some things, but my full sized mig is a PITA to load and move. The MM211 with it's small size and ability to run on 110v/220v means I could run it in his main shop thats only got 110v service or run it from my small genset that doesn't really have the balls to run my bigger mig. I've found numerous times when it would have been nice to toss the mig in the truck and go repair something small at someones house with 110v.It's a tough thing to decide just how much machine you need when you really don't have a good feel for what you want to do. I know, I had this issue originally when I got my 1st mig. I wouldn't even think about a small mig that size today as a first machine. I wasted a lot of money on a machine I almost immediately outgrew. Unfortunately the best way to learn this is to start welding. Thats why I recommend a class to start. Once you get a feel for what you can do with one, your outlook will quickly change. Either you won't like it, or you will want to do more and more and move on to bigger and bigger projects..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:any love for the cheaper arc welder DSW? I could get one of these but it'd be harder to learn ,plus I could afford one  like a lIncoln
Reply:You need to decide what works best all around for you. I'll admit that's a tough thing to do in your shoes right now.Lincoln makes a good machine. Used within it's capabilities there's no problems. The big issue I see with many new guys is that they want to do projects that require larger (and more expensive) machines than their budget allows. They just don't have the knowledge to make a really informed choice on what they need. Instead they fall back on cost to make the choice. When you start with a machine that's already maxed out and is still under powered because of cost, you have to lower the plans of what you want to build. Most don't.If you decide that you are buying a machine strictly to learn on and then expect to spend more money on the machine that is sized correctly later, I have no problem with that. I can certainly see a place for a small 110v mig in a shop and a 250+ amp mig machine with a spoolgun and all the bells and whistles, that covers everything else. However, regardless what most say, as soon as they start, they start trying to weld heavier and heavier steel with machines that often are maxed at 1/8" to 3/16" under real world conditions. If you want to weld sheet metal panels on your car, a 110v little mig is perfect. But the problem is that then in a year or less, they want to do a trailer, or alum, some other project that the little mig really isn't capable of. Now they have to go and buy the machine that they should have spent the money on in the first place. Spend $400-500 now, then spend $800-1100 in less than a year for a machine thats only one or two steps up from what you had. Thats not a smart money decision, if money really is the driving factor. They would have been better off to have saved that original money and added to it to buy what they need.If you go thru and read a bunch of different threads on this, you'll find that usually guys give the same advise over and over to new welders. Get a bigger machine than you think you need and spend as much as you can possibly afford. If you look at threads on the sorts of things you talk about building, you'll see a similar pattern. Guys are telling these people, one they need to get training and practice, and two they need a decent sized machine to do the job. Take a look at the names that come up regularly and do a search of what sorts of things they do and what they post. Almost all walk the walk as well as talk the talk.I may be a bit soured on some of this. I get to spend a lot of time in my other hobby, diving, telling guys who just spent a ton on money, that the cr@p they bought is junk and that to do what they want in the advanced classes they need to go out and buy all new gear thats designed to do what they need it to do. Every season when I help teach classes it's the same thing. Good equipment isn't inexpensive, and guys buy cheap and buy the wrong stuff. If instead, they listened to the those who know and do this stuff, they'd be ahead in the long run.Last edited by DSW; 01-03-2010 at 01:26 PM..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:DSW,I didn't know you are a diver too. Seems to be a few of us on here. I'm hoping to go south to the islands next month, somewhere much warmer for sure. Didn't get to dive last year, hope to get a few trips in this year.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Ahhh the conundrum of buying the 1st welding machine..If I spend $ I can get Model Aoh but if I just spend a few $$ I can get Model A+oh oh if I spend $$$ I can get model A++Remember that you will also need some of those $$ for a Tank of shielding Gas- $150-200.00( yes you can use Fluxcore but eventually you'll want gas)Chop saw or Small BandsawCouple Grinders- at least 1ClampsHoodJacketGloves $$Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Hey Broccoli1,Your response is really quite on target. Most of the newbies/youngsters never factor in all the options & accessories/tools that must be acquired to give some idea of what will allow for completion of most projects. A simple "need" list prior to spending resources may allow individual expenses to be optimized without going overboard & into severe debt. Gotta do some homework. The other factor many don't consider is the possible future applications that may come into play & whether their initial investment was adequate. I never found it detrimental to have a bit MORE power. Anyway, hopefully the suggestions offered by we experienced gents help the youngsters/newbies do some serious thinking that results in satisfaction with their decision/choices.DennyComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:If you are just getting 'started' in metal-working and welding, all the 'incidentals' that Broccoli started to mention sort of add up to about the cost of a small/medium welder just in themselves.  Keep that in mind in your budgeting.  As already said above (several times).  And as said, a roll cage is NOT a starter project.    That is a job for an experienced and capable person.  As to how much machine you need, remember the welding rule-of-thumb.  One amp for each 0.001 inch of metal thickness.  So 1/8 inch = 0.125 inch means about 125 amps.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Did I hear Roll cage as a Starter Project?? Momnrise is right Roll Cage is NOT a beginner project. If that cage is to be used on anykind of sanctioned track it will need to meet the sanctioning organizations requirements  before thhat car will be allowed on the track.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:Hi, specter and MoonRise. R.G. mentioned in his post #9 about his rollcage project. I believe from the great advice that's been given in this thread, he'll be agoing in the right direction.Rodney                                   The blessing of the Lord makes one rich, And He adds no sorrow with it.'  Proverbs 10:22 NKJV
Reply:I found this welder on lowes.com.A lincoln pro mig 180 for $635. 208v. 30% duty cycle welds 1/2" flux and 3/16 mig. Is this a good one and will it work later on as i grow? thanx r.
Reply:TSC has the Hobart Handler 187 for 599.99the Lincoln is a decent machine but the Hobart would be a good buy @599.99Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge