Trying build handrails.. tips, tools?

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I am in the process of learning how to weld and would like to get into making handrails (not aluminum yet), I searched and found two great posts about making them (i have attached a pdf from one). From what I gathered, it will be easiest to draw it all out to size and go from there.. i just have a couple quick questions...Which piece is the stringer?After I build the steps (I am a mason), which is the easiest/most effective way to measure for building?Where do the vertical rails enter the treads.. dead center of the tread?What is the chemical used to set the Vertical rails into the treads after they are drilled?In the PDF, which piece would you use to figure out how long the bottom rail should be (including the bend at the top step) bc nose to nose would be too short and how do you account for the bend?Thanks I know that was a lot, any help would be appreciated, I found a place that sells the materials so I am good on that front. Any advice or tips would be great. Thanks again. Attached Imagesstait rail fab guide.pdf (105.3 KB, 106 views)
Reply:And technically, since I build all my steps to normal 8" rise 12" tread... the angles between the vertical posts and the lower rail should all be the same for all steps right? As well as the bend at the top tread too... correct me if I am wrong. this is a bit more complicated than I thought..oh one more thing.. how high from the nose of the tread should the lower rail be?
Reply:Originally Posted by 05ljnjAnd technically, since I build all my steps to normal 8" rise 12" tread... the angles between the vertical posts and the lower rail should all be the same for all steps right? As well as the bend at the top tread too... correct me if I am wrong. this is a bit more complicated than I thought..oh one more thing.. how high from the nose of the tread should the lower rail be?
Reply:OK, I'll be the ONE!S E A R C H     functionMany, many post on rails on this very site. The one answer you won't find, "the stringer" you asked about, and pictured in the attachment, is not to be found on masonry steps, only on steel (usually commercial) stairs. It is the side of the stairs, steel channel iron, that the steel stair pans are welded or bolted to. Handrails on this type of stairs are usually welded (or bolted) to the top flange of the channel.One thing you will find in many posts, look into King Architectural Supply....Just my  opinion, not from a book, just from the road.Howes Welding Inc.www.howesweldinginc.com
Reply:Do yourself a favor and grab one of the Code check books from Depot. I believe the one on general construction  has all the info on hand rails and so on. It will cover heights of rails form steps, min and max, balcony/ landing rail heights, minimum picket spacings and when you do and do not need a rail. Also covered will be when you do and do not need a continuous grab rail I believe as well as diameters and so on. Well worth the couple of bucks to be sure you won't have to redo something for the inspector.I'm surprised as a mason you ask about how to set the posts. Anchoring cement is usually used in the holes to set posts. Sometimes you will see wet set plates and you weld to that, or I've seen them done with anchor bolts..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:The nicest looking way to connect them down to masonry steps is with plates and shoes over them. I don't use anchors, I use the masonry screws. You may have to take them off for some reason, say, the powdercoat is no good and rusts. That's happened.For straight stairs, I measure the distance from the edge of the bottom step to the edge of the top step. Measure the distance vertical of height from top of bottom step to top edge of top step. Then measure the lateral distance from the edge of bottom step to edge of top step. Then measure the height of bottom step. To do this, I use two pieces of straight tube clamped together in a ninety with a level on both and place one tube on top step and other standing up plumb against the bottom step. You will see the triangle it makes. With the measurements of this triangle you should be a ble to plot any other measurements you need. It's much harder to explain here then it is to do. You can draw this triangle on the table or on the floor if the table isn't big enough.You can see the shoes used on this little stair rail. They slide up and down so you just slide them up until the screws ar in and slide them down to cover the plates and screws.You can also see the break in the rails even with the edge of the stairs. No matter which rail, top, bottom or middle, the rail length is the same this way. There are other ways to do it but I like this way the best and think it looks the best as well. Attached Images
Reply:Nice looking rail Bob, fancy enough without overdoing it.....Mike
Reply:Yes, that does look good Bob!And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Can you tell that he graduated from the University of Texas? There was railing all the way around the patio and two more little stair rails.
Reply:Sweet, Im actually building a handrail and stair right now. Some pictures from today coincidently:  Allrighty picture one from the left is the first set of stairs. The metal plate attached to the wall with bolts is the stringer. Each step is the/a tread. The plate itself is 3/8 cold steel with 1inch holes bored into it, 38 holes total. With a 1 inch hammer drill bit on a hilti hammer drill through the holes on the plate I drilled into the brick, then used hilti hl500 chemical fastener to secure the 1 inch bolts into the wall. Each tread was then tacked top and bottom with 3/32 7014 rod, then welded on the left and right vertically with 3/32 7018 electrode.The second and third picture is the 2nd set of stairs, 5 steps only, welded flat tig in the shop (for the best penetration) There is a completed 8 inch channel on the right side and its open on the left. Much simpler then the first set.The third picture is the ceiling, there are 3 pairs of 2/12 x 1/2 x 96 1/4 in cold steel. that support the floor. What you cant see, there are more straps that are in the 20 foot range that go from the ceiling all the way down to the first floor set of steps. ( i havent put them in yet) These straps attach to the open sides of the staircases for support.I'm sorry for the long winded confusing post. I just got a little excited b/c Im doing stairs. Well any questions feel free to ask or constructive criticism. Dave