black oxide

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I have some parts for a client that are black oxide. I need to weld and grind on this parts. Does anyone know of a good way to touch these parts up. Thanks.
Reply:Here is a site with a few processes.  http://www.finishing.com/faqs/blackoxide.htmlDave Hobby welder for 40 years.Miller Thunderbolt ArcMillermatic 180 MIG
Reply:I wouldn't try INDUSTRIAL black oxide yourself. There is do it yourself kits but they are nothing like the industrial kits as they are low temperature chemicals.
Reply:The machine shop suppliers used to sell what they called "tool black". Kind of like cold blueing for guns. It worked pretty good but not sure it is sold anymore since I think maybe it had some nasty chemicals in it. It wasn't as nice as a good black oxide job but it was close enough for machine parts. But I do recall if you didn't do it right and oil the parts afterwards they would rust pretty bad. Try MSC or J&L industrial to see if they still carry it. Might also try Brownells...they sell a lot of stuff for gunsmiths and might have something that will meet your needs.But I also agree that anything more than a cold touch up job should be either farmed out or plan to dedicate the time and space to do it safely.AlA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:Posted bydcracer5:I have some parts for a client that are black oxide. I need to weld and grind on this parts. Does anyone know of a good way to touch these parts up. Thanks.
Reply:Thanks for all the help and advice. The parts are from a harris bi-pod for rifles. The parts are aluminum I am pretty sure they are 6061 but I need to check for sure. I may be able to post some pictures later. Thanks again.
Reply:Them Harris bipods are the best.I would imagine the finish is not black oxide but hard coat anodizing. The original finish on the Harris bipod is tougher than a bull's hide. I'm pretty sure black oxide is a rusting type process and can't be used with aluminum. My redneck chemistry might be wrong though. Make sure you verify the material before welding those. I've got a hunch they might be 2024.AlA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:I would imagine the finish is not black oxide but hard coat anodizing. The original finish on the Harris bipod is tougher than a bull's hide. I'm pretty sure black oxide is a rusting type process and can't be used with aluminum. My redneck chemistry might be wrong though.
Reply:Originally Posted by SmokinPRanchThem Harris bipods are the best.I would imagine the finish is not black oxide but hard coat anodizing. The original finish on the Harris bipod is tougher than a bull's hide. I'm pretty sure black oxide is a rusting type process and can't be used with aluminum. My redneck chemistry might be wrong though. Al
Reply:Thanks for all the help. I appreciate the input I think you are correct that it is anodized. I wasn't 100 percent sure what it was. I worked in one machine shop we did a lot of black oxide. But these parts are anodized. Thanks again for the help.
Reply:Black sharpie, touch up as needed....And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Although it's been established that the OP is dealing with anodizing, not black oxide, the following info that I received from Birchwood Casey in 2006 when searching for black oxide to finish some tooling might be helpful to others searching for black oxide info.-jmcvo--------"Presto Black is the same product as Birchwood Casey Perma Blue, Liquid Gun Blue.  The difference is only the name. We do not make Perma Blue in quart size. Perma Blue is a fast acting chemical for bluing steel.  It works quite good on carbon steels but not on  stainless steel or on high nickel steel. The product is designed to be brushed on, not immersed.  It is used at room temperature and cleaned off with water.   Perma Blue is available in 3 ounce bottles at Wal Mart stores.  One 3 ounce bottle is enough to blue about four rifles. If you are in a hurry you could call Wal Mart to be sure the store you are talking to has Perma Blue.  The Wal Mart part number for Birchwood Casey Perma Blue is 4565980.If you are interested I will send you directions on Perma Blue. Please let me know."---- this was his followup with detailed info ----"Jeff,Here is a letter I sent to another customer earlier this year. I believe it will explain the bluing process as well as give directions.Bluing Process:To answer your question I will start by explaining how the bluing process works. Cleaning and degreasing the metal assures that the surface will react with the bluing chemicals. For example, if you leave a spot of oil on the barrel, neither the bluing and rust remover nor the bluing product will be able to react with the metal. Cleaning and degreasing therefore is very important.Use of the Bluing and Rust remover is another cleaning process. It not only cleans the old bluing and rust off the metal surface it chemically prepares the metal to react with the bluing product.Bluing should be applied at room temperature to metal that is also at room temperature. The chemical formulation of the bluing is designed for use at room temperature. It is intended to be on the metal for only for one half to one minute. If you leave the bluing on too long it may require starting over with the blue and rust remover.Remove the bluing with cool water. I like to put one drop of dish detergent in a quart of water. Then I use that water with a clean rag to remove the bluing product. You can apply the next coat of bluing on the metal without drying it off.One way to enhance the bluing job is to buff the surface with ultra fine steel wool between coats of bluing. Buff lightly, just enough to remove the microscopic oxide layer from the blued metal. Use caution during this light buffing procedure or you can remove too much bluing.After the light buffing process, clean and degrease the metal and apply bluing again. Chances are you will see the metal change quite a bit more than before performing the light buffing. Finish by wiping with cool water and lightly re-buffing.When you have achieved the color of blue you want, thoroughly rinse the metal with cool water. Dry the metal, apply a generous coating of Sheath (Barricade), and let the newly blued surface cure for 24 hours. If you don't clean, dry and coat the newly blued surface it will continue the bluing process and turn into a rusty appearance.There is one more comment that should be mentioned about the bluing process. Commercial metals are not totally homogenous. That is to say that metal contains impurities and other places that contain higher or lower concentrations of the alloy elements. This holds especially true for older firearms because the alloying process was not as exact then as it is today. (It would be like making pancakes but the mix gets lumpy when added to the milk. If you don't mix it more thoroughly you end up with pockets of flour in you pancakes.) The point is that sometimes you have areas in the metal surface where you have to spend a little extra time blending the area to get a consistent even colored finish.As an example of the comments on metallurgy, one of my first bluing projects was an old Mauser. Every gun part took the bluing differently. I had to spend extra time in order to get all of the parts the same color of dark blue. Now every piece of metal matches and that rifle is beautiful."
Reply:Make sure you use the correct filler rod which can be anodized, if you plan on having the part stripped and re-anodized.