Noobie trying to weld Aluminum

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Does anyone have any idea what aluminum alloy Home Depot sells in it's hardware dept.?I am having a hell of a time trying to do a  lap weld on 1/16". I'm using 1/16 pure tungsten, 120 cycles and 75 balance on a LincolnV205-T AC/DC TIG on AC. I'm using a sharp point and 70amps..  I can't seem to find the correct amperage.Is this just a very soft alloy or do I just need to keep trying things?PaulLast edited by shakyone; 03-07-2010 at 10:54 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by shakyoneDoes anyone have any idea what aluminum alloy Home Depot sells in it's hardware dept.?I am having a hell of a time trying to do a  lap weld on 1/8". I'm using 1/16 pure tungsten, 120 cycles and 75 balance on a LincolnV205-T AC/DC TIG on AC. I'm using a sharp point and 70amps..  I can't seem to find the correct amperage.Is this just a very soft alloy or do I just need to keep trying things?Paul
Reply:I like using a 2% thoriated 3/32" tungsten straight out of the box.  You could go to dcrp to ball the end slightly and don't forget to go back to dcsp...trust me!  a 50/50 mix of gas works good on aluminum. dsw is right, bring up the heat.  jam that pedal and feather back at the end. happy welding!!
Reply:This thread sucks with out pictures:d
Reply:WHY are you using PURE with an inverter machine?!!  Anything BUT!!"SOUTHPAW" A wise person learns from another persons mistakes;A smart person learns from their own mistakes;But, a stupid person.............never learns.
Reply:Originally Posted by papabearWHY are you using PURE with an inverter machine?!!  Anything BUT!!
Reply:Hello Paul, there is another possibility here. I believe some of those materials that are sold out of their racks are anodized or have a coating of shellac on them. So besides looking to change your welding parameters you might need to see about doing some material preparation before trying to weld as you are. Anodized aluminum or aluminum that has been clear coated to keep it aestetically looking nice can play heck with trying to weld it. Try filing the areas that you are welding and see if there is any change in how it welds, if in fact anodizing is being used or clear coating or shellac is present on the surface, filing and cleaning it off will make it weld much better and more readily. A few more thoughts for you to consider. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:There are thousands of posts on this forum dealing with Aluminum TIG welding.  From the beginner mistakes you've made already (inadequate amperage and using pure tungsten w/ an inverter) you could benefit from many of these posts.  Miller has a good (and free) guide to TIG welding that you can read or download from their website.  Reading it will go a long way toward eliminating the frustration you will encounter as TIG isn't plug-and-play.Lincoln AC225 & MigPak 140, Lincoln Magnum SpoolGun, Miller Spectrum 375-X Plasma, Syncrowave 200 TIG, Millermatic 252 MIG, Miller Digital Elite, General 7x12" horiz/vert bandsaw, 3' box/pan brake, 20 ton press, milling machine, 12x28 lathe, etc.
Reply:I've got the same machine.go with just about any tungsten other than green on your invertec.  I like the ceriated or rare earth tungstens......an on 1/8" aluminum........MO HEAT!!!  I get great results on 1/8" AL (cleaned and prepped) with these settings:3/32" tungsten3/32" fillerstart amps: 12peak amps: 175Pulses: 2 per secondBackground Current: 60%Pulse on time: 60%Balance: 80% ENAC Wave Frequency: 100HzPost Flow: 6 Sec.The pulser helps control the heat and burn through, and having 2 pulses per second helps with your timing of adding filler.  you can easily get in a rhythm of adding filler on every second pulse.
Reply:Shaky,Getting you hands on the Miller GTAW handbook was some of the best advice you've received.Guys.  Did some of you even read the OP's original statement.HE'S TRYING TO LAP WELD 1/16" ALUMINUM.He doesn't need more heat (check the Miller Tig calculator--60-70 A).He doesn't need a bigger tungsten.He does need a different tungsten (not pure).  I like 2% Lanthanated or Ceriated.He does need to clean the surface with a SS brush to remove the oxides.Drop the pedal (full amps) to get a quick puddle.  Add filler.  Move.  You'll have to back off the pedal slightly as heat builds in the material.Your other settings are fine.  Don't worry about pulse with this job.For learning/practice you'll find that 1/8" aluminum is easier to deal with.  Set your amps at about 120 and control the heat with the pedal.  For these amps, you may wish to move up to a 3/32" tungsten.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Sundown- the OP edited his Post.If you look at DSW's quote you can see where the OP originally stated 1/8" as the Material.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Broc,Thanks for the explanation.DSW isn't normally that far off with the advice.Guess it's difficult to give advice when the OP doesn't know what he's trying to weld.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1Sundown- the OP edited his Post.If you look at DSW's quote you can see where the OP originally stated 1/8" as the Material.
Reply:Thanks Broccoli-  I too did a double take when I read 1/16" and thought for the life of me that it was much thicker.  Lincoln AC225 & MigPak 140, Lincoln Magnum SpoolGun, Miller Spectrum 375-X Plasma, Syncrowave 200 TIG, Millermatic 252 MIG, Miller Digital Elite, General 7x12" horiz/vert bandsaw, 3' box/pan brake, 20 ton press, milling machine, 12x28 lathe, etc.