110 -> 220 adapter

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Hi gurus.  Has any of you tried using this to have a 230 welder in your house 's backyard.  Does it handle the task well?  No melted wires around the house right?http://www.110220volts.com/USA220/AmericanUse.html
Reply:As long as they're from independent circuits, which it looks like they have a light that indicates you do.Make sure your extension cord is of sufficient gauge to support the amp draw for the length, or you'll just keep tripping your breaker.CWI, CWE, CST for Miller, Lincoln, Thermadyne, Hypertherm & ESABMillermatic 350PLincoln Invertec 205 AC/DCVictor combo torchESAB PCM 1125
Reply:Originally Posted by MaedarAs long as they're from independent circuits, which it looks like they have a light that indicates you do.Make sure your extension cord is of sufficient gauge to support the amp draw for the length, or you'll just keep tripping your breaker.
Reply:Originally Posted by throne7Are there any kind of test tools one can buy to actually put a amp load (gradually) on this device to see if it can in fact hold up without doing serious damage to the house electricals?  I am living in a rented house and don't want to cause any trouble.  So I would like to make sure everything is ok first before attempting to switch on the welder.
Reply:You don't need to test it gradually to be safe. If you draw too many amps for any circuit the breaker will pop before any damage is done (assuming your house was wired to code).It should be very easy to tell if you will have enough amps. Just look at your welders input amps and see what circuits are rated at in your main electrical panel.
Reply:I made my own box of that type, tested it one time at my own home with my MIG welder, worked fine.  My MIG welder only draws 23 amps maximum at 220V; I imagine that I could have tripped a breaker if I had my MIG running full out.   My box has three lights for easy troubleshooting, one for one leg of 110V, one for the other leg of 110V, and the third to indicate 220V.  If all three lights are on, you are good to go.  If you don't have three lights on, the lights will tell you what is wrong, if you know how to interpret them.....I figure I spent around $50 in parts to build my box, but it took some time, mostly to cut the hole for the 220V outlet.  I also had to buy the right resistor so I could use a 110V indicator light for 220V.Good idea to use an outlet tester to check the outlets before you try to use them.  My box ties both neutrals together, so it will trip a GFI immediately if I try to use a GFI outlet.   Originally I thought that was a defect, then I decided that it was a feature.   ;-)  Probably better not to tie neutrals together, however.Obviously important to use heavy extension cords, preferably 12 ga or bigger, as short as possible.Of course none of these things are completely safe and approved.   I would only use them temporarily, if needed, and only under my immediate supervision and observation, unplug them when they are not in use, etc.I have seen long winded discussions about how it is a bad idea to publish plans for this type of thing, on the premise that if you don't know enough about electricity to figure it out yourself, you have no business using something like this that could get potentially get you in trouble.  Probably true.RichardSculptures in copper and other metalshttp://www.fergusonsculpture.comSyncrowave 200 Millermatic 211Readywelder spoolgunHypertherm 600 plasma cutterThermal Arc GMS300 Victor OA torchHomemade Blacksmith propane forge
Reply:Originally Posted by MaedarAs long as they're from independent circuits, which it looks like they have a light that indicates you do.Make sure your extension cord is of sufficient gauge to support the amp draw for the length, or you'll just keep tripping your breaker.
Reply:Richard:On your home made one I hope you used a couple relays to open the circuit to avoid a hot (male) plug  if only one is connected.  Also if you go to an electrical supply you should be able to find a 220v pilot light . . .-- fredLincoln 180C MIG