Wet 7018?

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I just picked up some 3/32 7018 yesterday and was playing around with it this afternoon.  I have never welded with it before, as of now I have only used 7014 and 6013.I am wondering if the rods were damp or this is just a difficult rod to get started because I was having a hell of a time.I have a 220A AC lincoln welder and and had my amps at 90A.I was having a really hard time getting the weld to actually start.  The rod kept sticking really bad.  I tried using a file to clean the end down to shiny metal and still had the same problem.  I tried both the match stick start and the tapping method without much luck.  It would start to arc and then pop and and arc would go out.  Sometimes I would get the rod welding and then it would all of a sudden die, like the weld puddle would seize up and the slag would coat the tip of the rod and the weld.The box was sealed when I got it, but I am guessing it was sitting on the shelf for a long time because it didnt really look like the place I got it went through a lot of stock.  The rods are Blackstone.Should I try reconditioning them in the oven?  I figured I would give them a try since the guy only charged me $2.50 for a 5lb box (guessing his computer system was set by the lb and not by the box)
Reply:7018 is a dc electrode unless ya got the 7018Ac.
Reply:7018 is DCEP or AC, but standard '18 can be finicky on AC. Bump up the current a bit on AC with the standard rod. 90A would be fine on DC, but go with maybe 100A on AC. Maybe even higher, as the machine setting may not be accurate. Striking is easier (for me) on AC with the matchstick method than with the tap method.7018 is a bit more sticky than 6014 and 7014, but you will get it.
Reply:I agree i have never had much of an issue using them on ac just always been told its a dc Rod. i run mine on about 120 when welding flat. also electrodes are sold by the pound not the box.
Reply:if you are used to GP rods you will find it tough to strike the arc without sticking. but once you get the hang of it you will love how they run in comparison. i also agree with the strike rather than tap method, and to turn up the juice. DC runs about 10% hotter than the equivalent amps on AC
Reply:Your probably having problems getting it started because 90 amps is rather cold for AC, bump the amps up and you should be good to go.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Look for the marking on the rods to SAY E7018AC. Otherwise, you can not be sure the rod has the proper formulation for alternating current. 3/32" rods should do well in the range of amps you are in, but try a bit hotter when they stick to the work. I have gotten that same sized rod burning so hot that I melt the flux off the rod before the rod has been consumed, and the last third was glowing red-hot!   That would be a bit too hot. City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Ok I will crank up to amps tomorrow.  The box said the recommended A was 55-85 so I will just keep jacking it up and see what happens.The box says "It can be used in all positions on AC or DC reverse polarity welding current" I did get it to run, I just had a really hard time getting it started (Had to try and strike it 15-20 times before I would get lucky). But when it was running the bead seemed nice and it was really easy to see the puddle and tell the difference between the molten steel and the slag, which I have been having a more difficult time with when using the other rods.Thanks for the help guys!I have been welding up the frame for a BBQ and was having difficulty getting into the corners for my cope joints, which is why I was going to try this rod. Here is the work in progress so far
Reply:I like to tap my half burnt rods on concrete or some other hard, non-conductive surface before restarting.  It chips the flux of the tip so it's easier to re-start.  I'm a tapper myself.My name's not Jim....
Reply:push that sucker right into the puddle too, hydrogen controlled rods like a short arc compared to GPs. you can rest the rod on its unburnt flux as you weld and it won't stick
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmI like to tap my half burnt rods on concrete or some other hard, non-conductive surface before restarting.  It chips the flux of the tip so it's easier to re-start.  I'm a tapper myself.
Reply:If the electrode was damp, you could ground it out and for a few seconds and the heat will dry it out.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Nice photo ggarner.  Where did you source the four legs for this structure?  Just curious
Reply:Originally Posted by ggarnerOk I will crank up to amps tomorrow.  The box said the recommended A was 55-85 so I will just keep jacking it up and see what happens.The box says "It can be used in all positions on AC or DC reverse polarity welding current" I did get it to run, I just had a really hard time getting it started (Had to try and strike it 15-20 times before I would get lucky). But when it was running the bead seemed nice and it was really easy to see the puddle and tell the difference between the molten steel and the slag, which I have been having a more difficult time with when using the other rods.Thanks for the help guys!I have been welding up the frame for a BBQ and was having difficulty getting into the corners for my cope joints, which is why I was going to try this rod. Here is the work in progress so far
Reply:Originally Posted by throne7Nice photo ggarner.  Where did you source the four legs for this structure?  Just curious
Reply:I cranked it up to 125 and it was much easier to start and everything went well.  I was just running test beads and i did 1 long one and burnt 3/4 of the rod and by the end of the weld the core was red hot and the flux was starting to pop off.  I backed it off to 115 and it was a little harder to start but seemed to work pretty well! Thanks for the info and help.
Reply:Well I got some new rod today just to try some different stuff out and got some 3/32 6011 and some 1/8 7018AC rod.  Wow the difference between the straight 7018 and this stuff is night and day.  My one observation is that I was getting porosity at the start of my weld. After 1/4 of an inch it stopped.  I tried holding the starting pool longer and this seemed to resolve the problem.  Is this something that needs to be done with the 7018AC?  I was running at 130A and also 120A and both seemed to work pretty well.
Reply:AC 7018 is chronicaly porous at the start of the runHold the heat in the start a little longer, and do some small quick circles (minor whipping not to the point of major whipping, just manipulation), then start the rest of the bead with a straight dragThe heat has to have time to build, and cook the slag out when you have a cold start.  And all welds are a cold start to some degree"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:And run the 1/8 at around 135amps AC if it's an AC rodAny colder, and you have a slow crap weldTurn up da heat"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:and go hotter if you feel comfortable with it"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Rods meant to be run on AC only will be marked 7018AC on the rod itselfAny other designation means it's a DC rod, even though it can be run AC in a pinchDC sucks for restarts, and even fresh starts.  For short welds, and repetitive fast short welds, go AC"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/