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I have been doing fluxcore for a while but now I am looking at mig especially for thin walled square tubing (building a SII). So what tips do you guys have on going from fluxcore to MIG? Thanks in advance.Victor Journeyman OA TorchVictor Edge RegulatorsLincoln 180HD (240v) MIG/FCAWShark LT v7 CADMiller Digital Elite Helmet35 Milligrams of Insanity
Reply:Make sure your gas isn't leaking. Make sure you switch the polarity of your lead. You'll set the machine a little hotter with C25.You'll like it a lot.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:When I switched over, I had to learn to set the machine better than I had. I could just screw around with the settings ("higher for thicker metal") and it would burn pretty clean. When I moved to solid wire, I kept having the wire way too fast. Having solid wire is nice because you don't get slag like with fluxcore. You'll also find that the wire is much cheaper. Originally Posted by SundownIIISometimes it's better to remain silent and be thought the fool, than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt.
Reply:With solid wire and gas on thin metal, push the torch instead of dragging like you're used to with fluxcore.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33With solid wire and gas on thin metal, push the torch instead of dragging like you're used to with fluxcore.
Reply:Ok I spent the day trying some welds and all of my welds are having a convex profile, even the fillet welds. I can lay a perfect concave bead with fluxcore but this is sort of defeating me. The material is just not laying in there the way I want. Suggestions?Victor Journeyman OA TorchVictor Edge RegulatorsLincoln 180HD (240v) MIG/FCAWShark LT v7 CADMiller Digital Elite Helmet35 Milligrams of Insanity
Reply:try turning up your voltage or turn down your wire speed.
Reply:try reducing your stickout too, you run a much shorter CTWD with MIG than with FCAW
Reply:Originally Posted by Stick-manReally? I never tried pushing because I figured it would over penetrate as when I try a vert up. I always do vert down with mig and get great results. With up I always have undercut or wagon tracks.
Reply:Originally Posted by RellsOk I spent the day trying some welds and all of my welds are having a convex profile, even the fillet welds. I can lay a perfect concave bead with fluxcore but this is sort of defeating me. The material is just not laying in there the way I want. Suggestions?
Reply:If there's slag, then drag. FCAW and SMAW both have slag, so typically you use a drag angle with them.Slight push angle with solid wire. And watch the -puddle- to see what is happening, not the bright light. The bright light (the arc) is what is making things happen, but you want to watch the puddle of molten metal because that is what you are interested in (the molten metal itself and how it melts and fills in and solidifies).If you have too much build-up in the bead, than you are moving too slow for the wire speed. So move faster, or turn down the wire speed (which may mean you have to turn down the voltage as well), or a combination of all of those things.btw, you typically -want- to have a slightly convex weld bead. Concave beads tend to crack. One easy example of a concave bead or section of a bead is an ending crater. That concave section is bad-bad-bad, especially on aluminum where it will typically crack pretty quickly. Big gobs of metal piled up are not what you want either. Look up a lot of this information at the Lincoln or Miller or ESAB websites. It's all there.Go here http://www.lincolnelectric.com/products/litrequest/then look at or download some (or all or most ) of the PDFs, especially http://content.lincolnelectric.com/p...ture/wc478.pdfand http://content.lincolnelectric.com/p...ture/wc514.pdfLast edited by MoonRise; 04-20-2010 at 12:11 PM. The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ... |
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