How to modify plow mount?

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This mount is a Fisher Minute Mount for a 2003 Dodge 2500 hemi. I have an '04 2500 Ram diesel. This mount is very close to the style I need, but it needs some modifying. The only thing that keeps this mount from sliding right into place are the two vertical braces that you can see that run parallel with the bolt holes. They stick out too far and hit the radiator and intercooler. If I trim them down then it will work just fine. Will this take too much structural integrity away from the mount? From what you can see in the picture, what do you recommend to strengthen it back up after I trim those braces down to make clearance? Thanks. Last edited by Home Wood; 03-04-2007 at 11:19 AM.
Reply:Let me go look at mine..9' Minute mount 99 f350 Diesel..Be back in a few..I'll take a pic of mine......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Thanks Zapster. I added another pic.
Reply:I'm not sure if they will help but heres tha passenger side mount..Outside...Then inside..But a Ford has leaf springs in the front not coils..So it may be a whole diffrent set-up...For what its worth...My dad works for a Fisher Plow installer..Any more questions and I'll stop by that shop tomorrow.....?...zap!Last edited by zapster; 03-04-2007 at 11:35 AM.I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:If you want to ask him if it's safe to use this mount lightly modified, that would be cool. He'll probably say no, but still. Do you see any way to strengthen it up AFTER I shave down those braces? Those appear to be there for side to side force strength, so I need to keep that, but still have those braces clear the radiator and intercooler. I paid $135 for the mounts and would rather make these work instead of paying over $500 for correct new ones.
Reply:Mounts utilize horinzontal and vertical structure for rigidity and strength. I made the mistake of trying to skimp and use 2 thick 1/2 inch grade 5 washers, instead of adding material to the frame/mount and I made 3 passes with my plow and it pulled those weenie washers through. If I properly added strength to the mount vertically, like should be done, it would be fine. My snowblower is more convenient, so I've just been using that more often than fixing the plow mount. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Home Wood-Can you mark the mounts you have with a bright paint pen, or something of the same visual aid, indicating where you need to cut/trim etc.  That way I will have a better understanding of the material you will be loosing.  I should then be able to give you a proper answer.  Do the four holes mount to the frame ? Is the single hole, that seems to be reinforced, a pivot for the plow ?Thanks....Also include the thickness of the material that will be trimmed.-Graham-Mechanical EngineerAutosport Mechanic/Fabricator
Reply:Thanks Graham. I will certainly take some pics of what I am thinking of trimming. I'll do it this afternoon after I get home from work. That big hole that's reinforced is where the hitch pin goes into to hold the plow frame and plow on the truck. The bolt holes are used to bolt the mount to the truck frame. The mount gets C-clamped into place and you then use the holes as a template.
Reply:I could not find my silver Sharpy marker, so I used tape to show about how much material would need to be removed. This is a close estimate. The left and right mount are identical, so it would have to be done to both.
Reply:When you say the bracket is very close to the style you need is that from seeing one that is correct for your year and model? Or is it based on the fact that you only need to modify the ones you have a little bit?If you have seen the year/ model correct bracket couldn't you compare the two?I really don't see an issue with removing that section.Last edited by lorenzo; 03-04-2007 at 05:48 PM._________________Chris
Reply:If thats all you need to "loose" Then go for it!Thats not really much and I'm willing to bet the ones for your application are missing that from the factory..I see no strength problems at all.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Both of you are right on. This mount is very very close to what the correct one looks like and the correct one is missing a section like that. I didn't think that it was a huge loss of material, but I just wanted to check and make sure. I'll use a cut off wheel or recip saw to remove it and an angle grinder to clean up the edges.  Thanks guys.
Reply:From a design point, I conclude that the manufacturer of the plow system builds those brackets for extreme cases.  Meaning, I believe the brackets are most likely very over engineered becasue of the abuse and violet motions a plow blade experiences while working.  With that said, although I have no experience with plow design I feel as though you should be alright continuing with the modification you are presenting.  Although, I think you should take precaution when finishing off your cuts (see picture below).  Make all corners "rounds."  For the middle round, drill a hole first (1/2" at least) and then make your cuts so they run tangent into the drilled hole.  That way you are guaranteed a nice round. Good luck-Graham-Mechanical EngineerAutosport Mechanic/Fabricator
Reply:Great advice Graham. I like how you did that to the picture. I would have never though of drilling it to make it nice and round. I appreciate the help guys.
Reply:From a design point, I conclude that the manufacturer of the plow system builds those brackets for extreme cases
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterYou are absolutly correct...The set up on my dump truck is super heavy duty..Many towns have trucks like mine for plowing streets and the potholes can be murder on the frames...But you will ruin the truck before the plowframe...The plowframe stuff is thicker than a stock truck frame anyday......zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by lorenzoFunny you should mention this especially with a Dodge as the truck of topic but the Dodges have been know to have weak frames for this very application.. I know several plowing contractors with Dodges who have had frames tweak under some what less than strenuous conditions.
Reply:Originally Posted by Home WoodThis mount is a Fisher Minute Mount for a 2003 Dodge 2500 hemi. I have an '04 2500 Ram diesel. This mount is very close to the style I need, but it needs some modifying. The only thing that keeps this mount from sliding right into place are the two vertical braces that you can see that run parallel with the bolt holes. They stick out too far and hit the radiator and intercooler. If I trim them down then it will work just fine. Will this take too much structural integrity away from the mount? From what you can see in the picture, what do you recommend to strengthen it back up after I trim those braces down to make clearance? Thanks.
Reply:PM sent mike.
Reply:Originally Posted by Home WoodWhat years of trucks? My '04 has a (hydroformed?) frame, meaning it's not a C-channel frame. These are supposed to be quite strong. This truck would see very light plowing down here in NC, but I got up with a guy who pays big money for subs who plow for him. I used to plow in Mass, where I'm from.
Reply:Would it not be a whole lot easier to just move SOUTH,,,,,,,,lol,,,just messing with ya at 5:30am on a Saturday morning,,,,,,,,lol