5" sch 160 6g pipe test

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I've never welded this thick pipe before I need help!! LOL.. What amp should I run my TIG root on?  Also TIG hotpass amperage? Then I get to make hopefully 2 stringers with 3/32 7018 would about 105 amps do good for that thick of pipe? and filler is with 1/8 7018 I was thinking like 145amps? And the cap is 1/8 7018 135amp?
Reply:I do my annual SMAW carbon steel P1 pressure ticket with 1.5" sch 160 carbon steel pipe. However, my test is 100% stick which includes a 6010 root and 7018 fill and cap. Yours should be a piece of cake since you get to put your root in with tig (GTAW).Are you using 70S2 or 70S5 filler for your root?I like to run 3/32 7018 at 85-90 amps, no more. If you have the option, I stick with 3/32 all the way out, including the root and cap. For 1/8 7018 I like 110-120 amps for all.With pipe this thick,  you  may want to stop welding 3/4 of the way out and allow the pipe to cool before you weld the cap. Otherwise, you may have difficulty making a nice cap due to the heat buildup in the pipe.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Thanks man i'll take your thought into consideration!! You are the first to respond on 2 forums lol
Reply:I would caution you against running 1/8" 7018 at much more than 125 for out of position welding like you are going to see in the 6G position. Should be an easy root with TIG. My suggestion is to not be in a hurry to just burn passes in there. Take your time and clean clean clean.'Mike
Reply:thanks
Reply:Originally Posted by justinTThanks man i'll take your thought into consideration!! You are the first to respond on 2 forums lol
Reply:Yea my buddy put his tig root in a 80amps a bit cold.. his pieces actually snapped in 2 and i just bought the 60$ dewalt 4" grinder with wirewheel and a nice file so im ready!!
Reply:Sounds good. I'd have a 4" grinding disc and a 4" flap disc along as well. The grinding disc will come in handy for grinding out any porosity or bad edges and the flap disc will come in handy for cleanly removing the surfaces of the root and cap for bending your bend pieces.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:i usually do pretty well with my arc length so i rarely have porosity but yea ill go by lowes and get a flap disc
Reply:here is a hot pass of mine in 6g sch80 5"
Reply:If your test coupon is that rusty, you will want to clean it up good with a sandblaster or carefully with your flap disc.Myself, I wouldn't be worried about my tig root as much as I'd be worried abou tthe rest of 7018 fill but thats just me.How does your root look inside the pipe? Full penitration and evenly in all the way around?Last edited by snoeproe; 02-28-2010 at 10:15 AM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:yea its flat all the way around im working on the 'wedding band' i can get it out about 1/16 on the inside but not all the way around and i doubt the test pieces will be that rusty lol...
Reply:if i was doing this test i would probably tig my root at about 100 amps ....with a feathered edge and 5/32 gap with 1/8 wirefor the hot pass i would set it at about 150 amps 3/32  7018 95 -105 amps 1/8   7018  125 - 135 ampsLast edited by gto_welder01; 03-01-2010 at 12:05 PM.
Reply:thanks all i passed the 5" sch 160 but the 2" heavywall failed i dont understand why...
Reply:if it was xray, ask to look at the film. You  can see where you went wrong and make adjustments. Its usually pretty obvious.UA Local 598
Reply:no it was a bend test.. e70s2 tig all the way out... 110amp for the root, 110 for the hot pass.. and 130 for the filler and cap.. i stopped every pass or so to let the piece cool down i got back to retest in 20 days..
Reply:did it break on the root or face bend? Which area of the pipe? Sometimes coming up towards the top, its easy to lose your torch angle and get porosity.UA Local 598
Reply:root bend , ill retake it and get it this time.. im taking my own torch i wish i had then :\
Reply:Was the 2" sch 160 pipe test tig all the way out? Or tig root and 7018 fill/cap?For me, tig all the way out means less change for error. No chances to bury slag.I would weld the pipe almost all the way out (3/4 of the way out 4sure) then stop and alow the pipe to cool briefly before your last fill pass and cap. I'm asuming that your pieces were side bent?What piece opened up? was it the 10-11:00 piece? 7-8:00 piece? 1-2:00 piece? or 4-5:00 piece?You should be allowed for a 1/8"or less opening or defect.Last edited by snoeproe; 03-06-2010 at 08:07 AM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:i think the 2" was schedule 140? And I couldn't tell which part of the pipe had the faulty but it was about 1/4" tear maybe my tungsten got contaminated??/ I think I would have seen that though... Possibly I was too hot?
Reply:Is it possible that it was the root bend, but not the root pass that failed? Most likely the root went in fine unless you noticed something odd, which would be odd. Usually it is a subsequent pass that you buried slag or was not cleaned sufficiently. Make sure you are grinding and brushing stops and starts. You didnt quench it in water to cool it? I hope.UA Local 598
Reply:Now that I think about it I don't remember feathering my tacks out... Stupid mistake I guess on my part.. The quenching part is a negative The pipe was tacked and not allowed to be moved. I dont even quench my school practice pieces..
Reply:a QC told me it's ok to quench as long as it ain't red hot.. (he was from carolina eastman).. quenched all the test coupons.. i always thought that was odd..if you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room..
Reply:yea i've heard it's ok to quench but i've never practiced it :\
Reply:You can quench and xray, but the fast cooling makes it brittle and will not bend. I will put the coupon in water within an inch of the weld, but not get the weld wet.If you didnt prep your tacks, that would explain it. You need to make good habits so that prepping your tacks is second nature, grinding stops and starts is second nature, etc. When you take the variables out of the weld process, you will do better.UA Local 598Thanks WHughes. I just started welding last August I do need to make some good habits lol..
Reply:man you guys are spoiled lol when we take our tests for our common arc certs we can only use a file/sawzall blade,a hand brush and a slag pick.it makes you really be careful when you put the beads in because its a lot of fileing to take it back out lol.one other thing to allways have when taking a test is a inspection mirror to look at your root pass so you can fix any defects before the inspector comes to check it.allso a good flashlight because there isnt allways good lighting in the test booths.After the arc has died the weld remains
Reply:Yea the only thing they said about this test was finish in 3 hours.. HE came and looked at the tacks then he looked at the root then the cap..  That place i tested at was a complete joke compared to my shop.. This place used old machines where you had to clamp your stinger onto your tig line to make your tig work lol... The only machine i have used in the past 8 months has been a Miller Dynasty 350... I think the machines up there was called Invertec 250? Had "Crisp and Soft" stick settings?? Maybe someone can explain these to me? I used soft and it appeared to have worked lol..
Reply:"Crisp" is supposed to "bite" into the metal more... it's for 6010 types..."Soft" sort of flows the metal out... it's for 7018 types.That is a nice hot pass man, but you really need to be cleaning up your pipe more beforehand.1" away from the bevel on the inside and outside is protocol Keeping it down in the hood...literally!
Reply:yea i clean it once i get the filler level with the bevel.. I use a flap disk to smooth everything equal all the way around here is the test strips from that coupon..the root pass was perfect and the cap had 1 slag inclusion 1/16"6G, 5" sch 80, tig root& hot, 1/8" 7018 filler and cap Attached ImagesLast edited by justinT; 03-07-2010 at 09:32 PM.
Reply:clamping a stinger to the tig line is pretty common. Looks like a good bend. It has to open up more than 1/8 to fail in our shop, but they take 4 to 8 strips.UA Local 598
Reply:Originally Posted by WHughesclamping a stinger to the tig line is pretty common. Looks like a good bend. It has to open up more than 1/8 to fail in our shop, but they take 4 to 8 strips.
Reply:2" heavy wall test 6G posi.  3/32- 1/8 gap feathered edge to blunt edge. 70s wire &7018 low-hi 3/32 in both. 4  1/4" tacks then inspected then tacked up to 6g position. (cannot be rolled or removed) run 1 pass of tig for root then inspection. then fill and cap with 7018. then final inspection. cut out 4 strips at the 2-4-8and 10o'clock positions for a guided side bend test. When you first walk into booth you recieve your coupons, a wire brush,halfround file& a chippimg hammer. That's it no power tools allowed. this is not a grinder test It's a standard 2"  6G test for boilermakers  revpol
Reply:Not meaning to hijack justinT's thread but I find it interesting how these testing rules  can vary around north America.  On these no grinder tests, are the sidebends taken where the tacks are or from the center of a run?   I can see getting through a tig root test without a grinder but where do they draw the line.  No grinder for 6010 root? 7018 root? stainless stick root?  Guess I'm lucky in that I've never had to do a pressure test where they weren't allowed.  Never had a sidebend test.  A 2" coupon would be quartered and two face and two root bends made over tacks.
Reply:I prefer to use as few tacks as I possibly can. On 2" pipe I only use 2 tacks. When I get my piece up to 45 degrees (6G) I make sure the tacks are at 6:00 and 12:00 posistions. Try to get one longer tack in and use that one for the 6:00 tack. That way your root is already in for the bottom of the pipe....Just what I do.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:On the 2" heavywall before you go to your booth you are given instructions on what the tech. wants. The 4 tacks are so they don't have any "dog legs" on the fit-up, also the techs want to see you tie into the tacks and you don't have any lack of fusion,undercut or over cuts lol. you are required to put in only 1 tig pass. the hot pass is done with stick 7018 that way they can tell if you can really  handle the 7018  over the tig without it winking at you or blowing right thru. the hot pass is generally run with a wash pass then stringered out. the side bends are cut out between the tacks. they use side bends so they get a full look at the weld for the right side and the left side. personnaly I weld one side right handed and the other left. If you do a root bend and face bend if you think about it you are grinding most of the root and face off so you are really bending the hot pass and flush pass. with the heavywall tests I find if your beveled edge is sharp run can run a little cold and still get good breakdown and fusion then if you run a hot pass with tig turn it up about 10-15 ampsand just cover the root weld making sure that you have good fusion into the apparent metal don't push to much metal with the hot pass because you can actually push more metal into the root which you may not want. on our test you can only have 1/16 either way with the edges broke down. you can also suck back the root with to much heat and not enough filler. So it's a practice thing. Go into the booth knowing not learning.   revpol
Reply:Originally Posted by revpolOn the 2" heavywall before you go to your booth you are given instructions on what the tech. wants. The 4 tacks are so they don't have any "dog legs" on the fit-up, also the techs want to see you tie into the tacks and you don't have any lack of fusion,undercut or over cuts lol. you are required to put in only 1 tig pass. the hot pass is done with stick 7018 that way they can tell if you can really  handle the 7018  over the tig without it winking at you or blowing right thru. the hot pass is generally run with a wash pass then stringered out. the side bends are cut out between the tacks. they use side bends so they get a full look at the weld for the right side and the left side. personnaly I weld one side right handed and the other left. If you do a root bend and face bend if you think about it you are grinding most of the root and face off so you are really bending the hot pass and flush pass. with the heavywall tests I find if your beveled edge is sharp run can run a little cold and still get good breakdown and fusion then if you run a hot pass with tig turn it up about 10-15 ampsand just cover the root weld making sure that you have good fusion into the apparent metal don't push to much metal with the hot pass because you can actually push more metal into the root which you may not want. on our test you can only have 1/16 either way with the edges broke down. you can also suck back the root with to much heat and not enough filler. So it's a practice thing. Go into the booth knowing not learning.   revpol
Reply:I like the way this thread is going KNOWLEDGE is power!!
Reply:Hello JustinI got a question for your hot pass on the ( 6 - G ) position, what rad are your using and what are the amps. Thanks Lee