Idea for a Welding/Work table- Trailer Jack legs

admin

I am planning on building a 4'X8' 1/2" thick welding table soon. I want to have pneumatic tires on it so I can pull it outside in the dirt, but I will need to have retractable legs to keep it sturdy while I am working, and to keep it level on uneven ground. I am thinking that 2" square weld on trailer jacks would do the trick, and I would be able to vary the height of the table depending on what I am working on. What do you guys think?
Reply:sounds good! but 1/2" plate for the top sounds like over kill.-Clarke 130EN-Miller MaxStar 150STL-Miller Elite 29' Roadster
Reply:1/2 inch plate is 20 pounds per square foot.  ( 640 pounds)  Even on big tires it would be difficult to move.  Half inch plate is ideal for a welding table surface.    In a commercial operation plate is stored in stock racks.  The plate is spotted on steel horse by using a crane or forklift.  I think that trailer jacks would not give you much side rigidity.
Reply:Originally Posted by lotechman  I think that trailer jacks would not give you much side rigidity.
Reply:I would be more inclined to have diagonal bracing either bolted in afterwards or hinged from under the plate.
Reply:My question is if you use the trailer jacks how do you plan to mount them.  Its a good idea but I don't know how it could be pulled off.  For one, if you use it for legs, how will you have enough room to turn the handles without hitting the table top, or will they protrude out past the edges.  If they do, then I promise in time you will not be happy with the results.  they will be hanging out there in the way every time you turn around.  your knees and legs will not be happy with you.....  ~JacksonI'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:I had a roll around table that had a 3/8" x 4' x 6' top........ that was heavy duty enough. Nothing I did on it seemed to phase the top._________________Chris
Reply:Like you, Lorenzo,I have a 3/8" top. I scrounged a base 30" square w/ small casters on it. Added 2x2x1/4 tube for legs for the 36" square top and it has served me well for 4 yrs. I don't know why I wanted the casters because it hasn't moved over 18" in any direction from where it usually sits.  I built some wire mesh shelves under the top and keep so much "dibs & dabs" on them it's a wonder the casters haven't collapsed!!!                                 MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I'd think about reversing your ideas a bit.  Mount the casters on the jacks and have nice, ridgid legs that won't wobble.  Then you can jack the table up onto the casters to move it or drop it down onto very sturdy legs.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hammack_WeldingMy question is if you use the trailer jacks how do you plan to mount them.  Its a good idea but I don't know how it could be pulled off.  For one, if you use it for legs, how will you have enough room to turn the handles without hitting the table top, or will they protrude out past the edges.  If they do, then I promise in time you will not be happy with the results.  they will be hanging out there in the way every time you turn around.  your knees and legs will not be happy with you.....  ~Jackson
Reply:Originally Posted by TubularFabI'd think about reversing your ideas a bit.  Mount the casters on the jacks and have nice, ridgid legs that won't wobble.  Then you can jack the table up onto the casters to move it or drop it down onto very sturdy legs.
Reply:Why not just get some 8" casters?DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:Originally Posted by ThunderRobosounds good! but 1/2" plate for the top sounds like over kill.
Reply:Originally Posted by littlefuzzWhy not just get some 8" casters?
Reply:You might want to attach a couple of levels permenantly to make it quick and easy to level up, just like on travel RV trailers.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:BTW - this bit of info might be handy for anyone with one of those trailer jacks.  I bought one of the big, square heavy duty ones for a trailer I built a couple of years ago - a Bulldog 5000lb rated lift.  Anyway, it is on a trailer that has levelling outriggers on it - I first uncouple it from the truck and lower the tongue and then set the rear legs.  Then I run the tongue up high and set the front legs.  Anyway, at first I thought the jack was way overloaded because with both hands it was almost impossible to turn the crank.  I had pumped a bunch of grease into it through the zerk fitting, but didn't seem to help.Finally, I got serious and totally dismantled the jack.  The leadscrew was rusty and still had a bunch of metal chips and burrs from when it was made.  The zerk fitting did not direct grease to the leadscrew at all.  So, I cleaned up the leadscrew with wire brushes and emery cloth in the lathe.  I reassembled everything with a heavy coat of grease and now the handle turns almost effortlessly with a full load on it.  I was very close to mailing the jack back to Bulldog and demanding my money back - but since it was a weld on and I already had a nice mounting plate welded to it I hated to give up.Anyway - don't assume that zerk fitting is getting grease where it needs to on those jacks!Jason