removing the weld joint

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this is a peculiar problem i have with one of my friend. To weld 2 huge sheets standing vertically, he welds from inside while putting vertical supports from outside.He cannot weld from outside due to structural difficulties. After welding, the vertical supports are removed by hammering. what remains sticking to the surface is the weld joint that was formed between the temporary support and the parent sheet. this weld joint is then removed by grinding. the problem now is that on the outer surface, the pits formed due to grinding remains.this causes aesthetic problem. Is there any solution to this? is there any product that can remove the weld joint completely requiring no grinding?
Reply:id say take the bulk down with a grinding wheel and the last bit with a sand paper or flapper wheel would be the best bet.  are they getting painted?
Reply:yes. thats the prob!!!
Reply:when we paint stuff at work we wire wheel the mill scale off the whole thing.cant really tell on the spots where we use a sand paper pad to take the last little bit of a tack off or what ever.most stuff we paint is just rolled on tremclad gloss black put a weld on a peice of scrap and grind it off with a sandpaper pad. paint it and see if you like it.but other than grinding i dont know of any other way to remove a weld.or at least one that leaves a nicer finish than grinding.
Reply:There are both grinding and sanding discs that allow you to see through them, which makes it easier to not overgrind.  Then there's bondo.
Reply:remove the issue in the first place.  figure out a way to clamp together the plate. Like a C clamp, or magnetic clamp, or suction clamp.  It sounds like this is a regular job of some sort. if there's no stock product gets some old pieces of channel and make what you want.I bet you would be able to brace the sheets vertical from each side and use a clamp or other method to align.If you can't. Tell your friend to pick up a flapper wheel disk and learn how to finish his welds. should be able to blend it so that's its impossible to tell where the tack was, especially if it's getting painted.Welding EngineerCertified Scrap Producer
Reply:Honestly, as long as there is no undercut on the welds there is no reason for pitting other than an operator who isnt very good with a grinder.  I could take off those welds and leave no trace behind.Get some hard wheels, some flap wheels (maybe 120's) and even a DA sander if you want to get finicky.  Best advice I can give over the net is to criss-cross the grinding marks and do most of the work with the hard wheel. Get as close as you can with these. This will let the flap wheels smooth things out without dishing out the good metal around the weld.  Once you get to the flap wheels keep them flat as possible and keep cross hatching.Have we all gone mad?