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Gday guys, been playing with the new welder and getting over working on the floor. Once im more confident in my welds ill be making a table.Been playing on google sketch up and ive made my design. Looking of any input you think may improve the table be it extra supports will it hold up etc etc1. I want a table that is mobile ( have have four 100kg each capacity wheels not drawn in the picture)2. I want to be able to walk around it so no permanent fixtures.3. It would hold perhaps 150kg item once or twice in its life time.Materials are:Top 1200mmx600mmx10mm weighing in at 57kgand about 8.5meters worth of 38mmx38mmx3mm RHSSo the total weight of the table will be around 130kg Attached Images
Reply:Good lookin draft. Have you thought about puting some recievers under the edge to accept a vice or grinder? That will keep the table top open, but put the tools at your disposal when you need em. I put one facing each way on each corner on mine so no matter where the table is turned I can slip in my chop saw or bench grinder in just a moment. Keeps the clutter down too. Just a thought.BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys? Trade?
Reply:Nerdstar, The drawing looks good. I made one very similar, and as you indicated you wanted, I put mine on casters. Without converting all your dimensions to inches and pounds, I think mine is roughly the same size. I used casters rated at 330lbs each, and the table weighed in at about 320lbs, so it has a 1000lb capacity. As Rbeckett suggested, the receiver idea is great, especially if you are limited on space. I made my receiver vertical, so as to not increase the footprint of the table. Keep practicing, but as Farmersamm often says, at some point you just gotta start sticking pieces together. I think you learn a lot by attempting safe and simple projects, like welding tables, and carts. There are plenty of folks here willing to give advice, and many projects already posted if you use the search capability. Good luck, and post pics. Nctox, Stickmate LX 235AC/160DC HH210
Reply:1-Overall stiffness and fatigue strength will be significantly improved by making thosetop and bottom rectangle frames (324mm x 924 mm inside dim's.) --45 degree miterjoints; with the 4 vertical posts butted between them.2- 4 corner gussets inside the 924mm x 800mm frame sections would help as well.3-A more robust design could use 50 mm (2") square tube frame stock.4-Dealing with sag or bowing of the top plate, plus supporting whatever intendedor un-intended pounding, on the top of the bench: consider adding 4 diagonalsquare tube supports from the vertical posts to that center beam under the top.5-Dealing with the distortion and fitup to create this---is a question that you haven't asked.Blackbird
Reply:Distortion is something ive been rather dreading and am curious about how to go about dealing with it before my build.Distortion is on reason i havent chosen to do the miter joints although i really want to from a learning aspect to develope more skill.after work today ill make up another sketch to your suggestions which ill then look for further support to combat this distortion.Another this is ill be making it from the 38mm x 38mm as i bought a lot of it for a good price.Really thanks for the support so far guys Rbeckett, nctox, dave powelson
Reply:Originally Posted by nerdstarDistortion is something ive been rather dreading and am curious about how to go about dealing with it before my build.Distortion is on reason i havent chosen to do the miter joints although i really want to from a learning aspect to develope more skill.after work today ill make up another sketch to your suggestions which ill then look for further support to combat this distortion.Another this is ill be making it from the 38mm x 38mm as i bought a lot of it for a good price.Really thanks for the support so far guys Rbeckett, nctox, dave powelson
Reply:My table is of similar dimensions and design.Top = 1219mm x 610mm x 12.25mm (2x4x1/2)The total height with wheels is 935mm. (36.75)The top overhangs 76mm (3) length and 64mm (2.5) widthwise.Tube is 50.8mm x 11 gauge (2x 11 gauge).Wheels are 127mm (5") and support 660lbs each (if I remember correctly).The ends were left open for "receiver type" add ons if I the need arises.The top is flat. The picture makes it appear bowed. It is not.It is easily moved and has fit my needs for small projects.Distortion is simply a reality that has to be dealt with welding. I would suggest getting a good welding book and reading about how to minimize and correct distortion. Its probably too much to discuss in a forum. Attached Images
Reply:Hi, Distortion could be a problem due to the the heat from welding the top to the frame only if you put down a lot of weld, but when you think about it, you don't really need to put down a lot of weld to fix that top down, in my opinion, you just need to put enough tags so the top does not lift or slide if you give it a bash or so with a very heavy hammer. For example, if you have your work clamped or tacked to the table and you want to straighten a piece of it up. It not like your lifting the table by the top plate with a 1-2 ton weight on the bottom part of the frame. Most or all the weight it will get on it will be directly down on to the table top.As for welding on top of it, it's 10mm plate and that should help resist heat distortion, I mean if your 10mm plate is heated that much that it distorts, then having a 38mm SHS x 3mm wall thickness welded to it isn't going to do much to stop it from distorting. Secondly most home welding machines generally won't put out enough heat from the welding process to do that anyway unless you deliberately set out to do so. An oxy torch or rosebud will, but you would have to be careless in how you heat your work up to heat up the table that much as well.As for sideways stability, a gusset in the corners would add a lot of strength and rigidity. My preference for the legs would also have been 50mm SHS but you use what you have got and if 38mm SHS x 3mm is what you have, then so be it. You can always add some more reinforcing with it..Assuming your welds are OK, 39mm x 3mm SHS may feel a bit "flimsy" but vertically down it is more than strong enough for the vertical load your table is going to have put on it. And since your wheels are only 100Kg they will fail long before your frame will. But I would recommend you add some gussets as an extra safety factor just in case your welds aren't up to scratch. If your wheels fail on one side and you have a very heavy load on top, then your table will tilt down and the the force acting on it will be on an angle similar to a scissor action. The result is that the weld to the table from the leg will be the only thing supporting it and keeping it together. So gussets will help considerably. Hope this helps.Miller Auto Invision 456 + S-62 wire feederC6240B1 Gap bed lathe16 ft3 air compressor16 speed pedestal drillHafco BS-912 Bandsaw
Reply:ok some extremely good info here thanks guys... i havent redone to sketch to show the miter cut joints just yet as i have had some beer ( making the most of uni holidays) however i did include some diagonal bracing. ill repeat the bracing on three sides. also include gussets everywhere and a centre beam on the "front" of the bench.i dont want you guys to think its overkill or anything but the way i see it the more welding the more experience i get. So im not going for an efficent design.also found a topic on distortion which ill sink my teeth into shortly... Attached Images
Reply:ok so i did it. opinions please.i didnt include a picture of the top, gussets or wheels...Cheers Attached Images
Reply:Roughly a 24" x 48" table, doesn't need all the bracing between the legs, especially if you only expect a 150 kg load on occasion. Use your first design, change it by moving the bottom spreader bars up the legs about half way & make a shelf there. Then attach your casters to the legs, call it good.I have a table that was made with 1/8" top, I added another 1/4" top to it & it doesn't have a shelf, but the spreader bars are quite high up the legs. I've had a 300 lb (roughly 140kg) on it & there was no problems. I wouldn't hesitate to put a 500-600 lb load on this table.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Overkill. And I usually am accused of using overkill on things. You really don't need that much bracing for a roughly 2 ft x 4 ft table with a 10mm/0.40 inch top plate that might hold up 330 lbs. All that diagonal bracing would help with side-to-side racking, but a 'little' table on wheels wouldn't stand up to much side-to-side racking to begin with. Gussets can help beef up corner joints, just by having more material and weld connecting the corners together. Probably not needed though.Distortion is always a concern when welding things. You have to practice and compensate or otherwise correct it if needed.Hmmm, 3mm thick tube? That's about 1/8 inch. That probably won't have any strength problems, but if you can go just a little bit thicker in wall thickness you can beef things up (see, I -said- I usually go for overkill ). Thin(er) walled sections can have problems with buckling (probably not an issue here), sometimes tougher to weld well (depending on your experience and equipment available, thin stuff and thick stuff can be more difficult to weld than 'medium' stuff), more vulnerable to rust through (just because there is less metal thickness to start with compared to a thicker section), and warping/bending. Your call. To me, 1/8 inch (or there abouts) wall thickness is a bit marginal for 'structural' things. And yes a welding/work bench counts as a structural item (to me).And also as said above, 2x2 tube (50mm x 50mm) would also help 'beef' things up. 1.5 inch square (38mm) square tube is probably strong enough, but the 2x2 tube gets you a -much- stronger and more rigid framework. The smaller tube most likely would not 'fail' (actual material ripping apart, ultimate tensile failure), but it might yield or bend.Also, 2x2 tube just seems to fit the scale of things a little better than the 1.5 inch tube. Aesthetics and design and proportions and such. IMHO.Suggestion. Use long pieces wherever possible instead of interrupting and then piecing things back together. It makes the cutting and fitting and assembly and welding go faster if there is less cutting and fitting and assembly and welding to do. Your last picture shows the top frame with multiple pieces all cut and fitted and welded together (7 pieces), if you just did two long rails and then three cross pieces you then only have 5 pieces to deal with. The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by joedirt1966My table is of similar dimensions and design...
Reply:http://www.millerwelds.com/interests...welding-table/as mentioned you don't need all of those bracesNow go cut some metal and weld it together.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Originally Posted by zipzitJD, Nice job on the table. What did you do to the top? Are those 1/2" x 13 tpi holes drilled and tapped, 1 foot on center for hold downs and what nots? Did you use a magnetic drill, large drill press or just lucky with hand held drill and tap set?thanks,zip |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:29:50