Stainless Injector

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Just looking to share a picture or two not looking for "Kudos" and I won't cry if you criticise either I'm a big boy. ... LOLThis is a chemical injector made from .065 (Large tube) .083 (small tube) - 316 S/S for a customer of mine. It is used on an Industrial washing machine that does approx 4000lbs per hour (sheets and towels for a large hotel in Atlanta).+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++Had to make a couple of grooves in the main tube on the lathe so the hose won't slip off, just like a hose nipple.Drill some 3/8" holes in the main tubeParts assembled together, I got the angle by bending the main tube (pushed on the inlet pipes) eyballed for approx angle. This isn't rocket science.This is the finished product. I did do one thing that was pretty dumb, although I cleaned the weld area I didn't clean the "Dye-Chem" (purple stuff) from the rest of the part and the heat from welding baked it in to the surface. Dosen't matter to my customer at all but it bothers me.    But I guess I'll live through it ....snicker Washman Attached ImagesLast edited by Washman; 08-28-2007 at 06:06 PM.
Reply:Nice job.Don't feel bad about the dye.  I've done the same thing to stainless with a blue sharpie.  Amazing but it really won't come off.Once you do it once, you don't do it again.  Maybe there's some practical use for it.  Sort of anodized stainless? Favorite right now is a Miller Syncro 200.Tons of tools and I blame at least one of them when things don't go right.
Reply:Very nice work.  I really like the color that the dye added to the piece...it is all artsy
Reply:WOW...that's a lot of heat...sure a pretty HAZ though !!Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:Acetone gets the blue out......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I've done that with sharpie ink as well.  And while the acetone will take some off it makes it a lot harder once it's baked in!So Washman - where in the Atlanta area are you?  I'm northeast just below Gainesville.Jason
Reply:After looking at the pics again...The fit up looks great... Did just fusing ever come to mind?That was a great example to use... That looks good but......man...Fusing it... ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by olddadWOW...that's a lot of heat...sure a pretty HAZ though !!
Reply:Originally Posted by olddadWOW...that's a lot of heat...sure a pretty HAZ though !!
Reply:Originally Posted by zapster Acetone gets the blue out......zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterAfter looking at the pics again...The fit up looks great... Did just fusing ever come to mind?That was a great example to use... That looks good but......man...Fusing it... ...zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by TensaitekiHow do you know how pretty the HAZ is? You can't even see the HAZ without cutting and etching or plastically deforming (bending) the weld.The HAZ and the oxide colors around the weld are two entirely different things.
Reply:Originally Posted by TubularFabI've done that with sharpie ink as well.  And while the acetone will take some off it makes it a lot harder once it's baked in!So Washman - where in the Atlanta area are you?  I'm northeast just below Gainesville.Jason
Reply:Pickle/passivate it in nitric acid.  That'll clean it up!Or rub it out with a scotch-brite pad, manual or one of the surface conditioning discs on a tool.Did you back-purge the tubes before welding?  With that much heat going in the insides might have gotten a little funky without back-purging.When stainless gets 'funky', it is often a little less 'stainless'.  For chemical resistance, you usually want to keep the stainless as stainless as you can.Instead of cutting grooves in on the lathe, next time run a small TIG bead around the tube.  The 'bump' seals better on the hose better than a grooove will.  Unless you groove out so much material that you end up leaving the 'bumps'.  Oh, and 4000 lbs of wash an hour is a pretty big machine!Last edited by MoonRise; 08-29-2007 at 02:12 PM.
Reply:Also the first thing I thought, the weld is bigger and hotter than it needs to be.  But, it looks like a good clean weld that will do what it needs to.  If it were a real corrosive enviroment, the "overheated" weld and HAZ could be a problem since there is likely a good deal of carbide precipitation and loss of corrosion resistance.Regarding the HAZ issue brought up by Tensaiteki and olddad, I think you're both correct.  The colored oxide is part of the HAZ, and is a rough indication of the extent of the HAZ.  If this were welded in a completely inert atmosphere, like a glovebox, the oxide would not form and you would not see this indication of the HAZ.
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRisePickle/passivate it in nitric acid.  That'll clean it up!Or rub it out with a scotch-brite pad, manual or one of the surface conditioning discs on a tool.Good advice but why bother on this particular jobDid you back-purge the tubes before welding?  With that much heat going in the insides might have gotten a little funky without back-purging.No I didn't bother .... (Considered it but couldn't think of a good reason to bother). Have a small look at the machine it goes on. To tell you the truth if the customer is not willing to do anything to take care of their equipment at all why should I go crazy.This is a picture of the loading end of the washer. See what I mean?It's kind of like polishing a turd . .......... You rub and rub and it don't get any better! . ....... LMAOI wish I had taken a picture of the inside of the tube though ... Would have been interesting for everyone to comment on.I can tell you that I looked myself though and it was virtually nonexisant.When stainless gets 'funky', it is often a little less 'stainless'.  For chemical resistance, you usually want to keep the stainless as stainless as you can.Your statement above is definately true after overheating stainless I have notice a drastic reduction in it's ability to resist corrosion.Instead of cutting grooves in on the lathe, next time run a small TIG bead around the tube.  The 'bump' seals better on the hose better than a grooove will.  Unless you groove out so much material that you end up leaving the 'bumps'.  This one I will argue all the way ... But I will simply say it was quicker to do on the lathe... I'm sure Zap and a number of others would agree on this. The hose seals perfectly on the new stainless by itself. The grooves are only required to give the hose a place to grab into so the hose won't blow off under pressure it's not a leakage issue it's a retention issue.My main reason however was that the lathe does a beautiful job with nice straight grooves. Welding a bead around this would never be as straight and pretty as my Virgo/anal retentive nature reguires or allows. ROTFLMAO . .. ...Oh, and 4000 lbs of wash an hour is a pretty big machine!
Reply:Originally Posted by TubularFabI've done that with sharpie ink as well.  And while the acetone will take some off it makes it a lot harder once it's baked in!So Washman - where in the Atlanta area are you?  I'm northeast just below Gainesville.Jason
Reply:Yep - I've heard of it.  I'm about 5 miles out of Oakwood on 53 - right at Road Atlanta and Lanier Raceway...