Another Small Engine Case Repair..

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Don't have any idea what it is...It was waiting for Me this A.M.Cracks from connecting rod failure..Wax..grinder..Before welding make sure there is nothing left in it to melt..Top filled..Next post.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:It seems to be the season for small engine repair. Which reminds me, I have to get a new set of carbide burs!John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Both cracks filled..Now you would want to grind it off and see whats "underneeth"..(Looks good to me even though I ground thru here and there)...After grinding..Next you want to do the inside of the case..Inside the case..Inside after welding..No need to grind it down...Better off to leave it alone..Now just give the outside one more 'round of filler..And its test time..Next post.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Here's the all important Acetone test..Prop it up somehow and cover the area with a puddle of acetone and check for leaks..I use Acetone because its way thinner than water and will find cracks and porosity really fast..No leaks.. And thats about it!I get all the fun jobs.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Mr. Zap,Another excellent tutorial on welding and using the proper techniques.My hat's off to you.You have to be the best picture taker, poster, explainer I has ever seen on a forum.  I wish I could have attended your class to learn tig from a true professional.Thanks for all the good posts.  Keep up the good work.In awe,JasonMillermatic 210 w/ SpoolgunMiller 375 ExtremeMiller Trailblazer 250GMiller AEAD 200-LEVictor Journeyman O/A
Reply:Thank You!I try.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:zap,  how did you get all the oil out of the pores on the inside of the block.
Reply:This one was actually quite clean..Better alloy material I guess...It was pretty oiley when it came in so I give it a bath in the whole general area inside and out..Used a paintbrush with the case in a pan for the basic..Acetone and a wire toothbrush after in the area..Some are really bad.. And those take more time..The first pass will bring the crap to the top if it's in there..Thats why you need the grinder treatment after the first pass..You may need to repeat as needed..)Do it on the outside of the case!!!Once you get a nice ouside pass after grinding the inside will need no special treatment after the weld..You got the crap out from the outside.. After the inside pass one more on the outside and presto!...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Sweet.  Nice fix.  But that one was hardly busted at all compared to the "usual." I'm guessing it's part of an air compressor.  Just my guess.  Looks too clean (even after it's been cleaned) to be an engine case.Favorite right now is a Miller Syncro 200.Tons of tools and I blame at least one of them when things don't go right.
Reply:That one has nothing on the last one you had.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Yeah...That one did'nt put up much of a fight...Phila may just be right about a compressor cylinder......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Nice job Zap.  Saved another guys a$$.  What different procedures do you use in repairing die castings (Hondas and light engines), as opposed to sand or forged castings (cylinder heads or heavy machine parts)?Do you preheat the die castings?Hobart 140 Handler w/ gasHyperTherm Powermax 380 Plasmaoxy/acetylene
Reply:I've never encountered engine cases that were thick enough to justify preheating.  Although I have preheated aluminum heads to build up around the water jackets.  Oh yeah, and the more you use a die grinder with a burr bit, you wont have as much grit seeping out of your weld from grinding and sanding disks.Common sense in an uncommon degree is what the world calls wisdom.
Reply:Originally Posted by Rick MoranNice job Zap.  Saved another guys a$$.  What different procedures do you use in repairing die castings (Hondas and light engines), as opposed to sand or forged castings (cylinder heads or heavy machine parts)?Do you preheat the die castings?
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterSometimes when the casting is so bad I will use the torch on the infected area to get rid of as much yuck as I can get...But I try to stay away form that at all costs..
Reply:Originally Posted by phila.renewalI'm guessing it's part of an air compressor.  Just my guess.  Looks too clean (even after it's been cleaned) to be an engine case.
Reply:I vote air compressor, or a heavy duty refrigerant compressor.  That flimsy rubber shaft seal would be toast on a hot crank shaft.  As for valves, you gotta keep the compressed gas moving in one direction, which is accomplished by valves of one type or another.  cricmanLast edited by cricman; 08-22-2007 at 04:27 PM.Reason: change of thought
Reply:I never got to find out what it was exactly..Was gone when I got there today......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:It looks like a small OHV Honda block to me.  I've never seen a small compressor with anything but reed valves and that block has a definite pushrod passage on the lower side of the bore.
Reply:Hey Zap,In the first pic, is that the cylinder bore, or the base of the cylinder.  If that was the cylinder bore, what kind of gasket material did it have.  In the first pic, it looks like minimal fiber-based gasket.  Maybe that could be a clue.  Heck it could be either.  The cooling fins do seem a bit more like that found on an air-cooled internal combustion engine.cricmanLast edited by cricman; 08-22-2007 at 10:19 PM.
Reply:Shrugging my shoulders...I have no idea.... ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:here is one I done....
Reply:Interesting tip on the acetone. I'm going to be beadlocking all the wheels for the Rover (15 wheels total) and somebody suggested acetone to test for leaks because mounting a tire just to leak test it is a major PITA. They said you're suposed to use acetone because it will evaporate out of the pores before you go to weld them. I was going to just use water because it's cheaper and use my propane torch to deal with evaporation. Looks like I should be using acetone.