Building a trailer

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I've been wanting an off-road trailer for a while now, something that I can load with Jerry-cans, spare parts, food, tents, fishing poles and all that other good junk and take camping. I thought of just buying one, but the cheapest one I could find was like $3000, I figure I can build it for about $800, including the solar panels and axel, and another $600-$700 for a fridge. Then again I've never built a trailer, so there's a few things I need clarified.Registration, I know I need tail/brake lights, and DOT aproved tyres, but will I need to get it inspected and certified by the DMV? Will I need to pay registration anualy? This is for Cali. which I'm sure has more/different laws than other states.For the axel, I am thinking of buying a housing and hubs from another Land Rover because they're less than $100 from most wreckers and then my truck and trailer would have the same bolt pattern so spare tires can be swaped back and forth, and the axel housing could also be used to store a spare 3rd member in case I blow a diff out on the trail.Where would I go to buy the springs? I figure leaf springs would be easiest and cheapest, do I just get them from a trailer dealer? Do I need shocks?The thing will weigh far less than 1000lbs when finished, figure 500 lbs for the trailer, then 500 lbs of gear, and that's being conservative on both sides. I'm thinking 1/4" C-chanel should do the trick for the frame and then lighter duty tubing for the side-suports.Am I on the right track here?
Reply:You're on the right track!I like most of your plan.It would be nice to carry one spare tire.But that axle... It's heavy, and hangs low. Except for full floaters, axles are  dependent on support from the third member. Bad enough to change one "pumpkin" on the trail - who wants to pull the second one? Will DMV insist on trailer brakes?I would think, 4" channel, or even something lighter, should be adequate for this frame. Let's see it!
Reply:Hmmm. I will start by saying this, I registered a home built trailer myself once, you will need to take it to a DMV office and let them see it. I don't believe you will need brakes for that light a trailer, but we can check the DMV site for clarification. Tail light/stop light/turn signals are needed as well as a license plate illuminator. When it's all done, you will need to stamp a VIN # on the frame. The DMV will give you a number and they will give you a little blue tag for the frame at the tongue. This is all the legal rigomorro. It needs fenders of some kind and as far as tires go, you may opt for nice offroad tires. Now on the suspension engineering front...HmMMMhmmmHMMMhoohooHHOOOhhoooHAAhhaahhaa!  Lonnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnger is better for leaf springs. Have a look at the local wrecker yard for some long left over leaf springs that will be nice and soft. You may have the option of removing a leaf or two to soften things up. Standard trailer leaf springs are just too short and stiff for a proper offroader!! I think you can build a fine trailer with out shocks, it is simple to add them after you check the ride quality.Danny,Arrow Trailer,Ontario, Ca.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepYou're on the right track!I like most of your plan.It would be nice to carry one spare tire.But that axle... It's heavy, and hangs low. Except for full floaters, axles are  dependent on support from the third member. Bad enough to change one "pumpkin" on the trail - who wants to pull the second one?
Reply:I'd use as many LR parts as possible, leaf springs and shocks to make interchangability options available. You can get a hand brake assembly and hook up to the original brake cables to make a parking brake for the trailer.
Reply:These rubber torsion axles would be another way to go--http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._166839+166843WeldingWeb forum--now more sophomoric banter than anything else!
Reply:Originally Posted by MrRodeoCCI'd use as many LR parts as possible, leaf springs and shocks to make interchangability options available. You can get a hand brake assembly and hook up to the original brake cables to make a parking brake for the trailer.
Reply:4-link set-up I can handle, just not sure I want to dink with it for a trailer.My main issues are the legality and what not, and seting up suspension on a heavy truck is much easier than a light weight buggy, so I assume that same logic carries over to a trailer. Right now I'm torn between a coil-sprung Range Rover axel and hubs that I can get for free, and a leaf sprung serries 2 axel that will cost me $75, I'm leaning toward the RR axel because I can cut off the brackets and re-tab it is suit my needs exactly.Now I just need to find time to build it.
Reply:Originally Posted by maxyedorThe Rover axel is allready set-up for disks, but I don't know how I mite actuate a normal truck brake, aren't most trailer brakes electric?
Reply:Originally Posted by KTIAs for actuating the brakes - the easiest way is to use tongue hydraulic actuator which turns the brakes on when trailer pushes the car maintaining balance between car and trailer. You can get them everywhere (e.g. http://shop.easternmarine.com/index....categoryID=150) for not that much and then you can use LR's disc brake setup.
Reply:Take a look at the Turtle Expedition's Turtle IV trailer (first link below).  I read an article on it years ago and it's the best thought out trailer I have found.  Understand that it doesn't meet your needs exactly but it would be a great base idea.  Up front it has (had) a dual wheel tongue wheel so it could be pulled over the rough spots.  It had a European style trailer parking brake I believe on the tongue to set the brakes (see the second link and the big picture - it's the red handled brake lever sticking up beside the tongue jack).  You could use any domestic sourced (read that as salvage yard sourced) levered parking brake setup I'd think.I liked the fact it carried both a diesel generator set and extra fuel with pump and filters on a transfer tank.  I believe the Turtle trailer had a custom frame with coil springs on independent suspension but that wouldn't be that hard to work out - think Ford "Twin I Beam" suspension setup with shorter beams suspended in the center of the trailer.  Torsion would work as well but probably wouldn't have the travel this would.  http://www.turtleexpedition.com/vehicles/turtle4.phphttp://www.bailey-caravans.co.uk/discovery/pictures.htm
Reply:Here is a link to a very nicely done trailer.http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/4wdMonthly.htmReece
Reply:Here is mine..  Rover lug pattern I cut the flanges off a Range Rover housing then welded them to an axle tube.  This allowed me to bolt on the stock rover hubs.  I then made caps the bolt on were the axles shafts bolted to the hubs.  I used trailer springs but am getting ready to convert it to independent suspension using rover air bags.Oh yea. this trailer cost me about $2500 to build 3 years ago.  If you include cost of wheels/ tires powder coat, sand blasting, LED lights.... Etc..
Reply:Another pic with extended tougne and basket.
Reply:Any kind of tongue actuated brakes are a complete PIA in the serious off road environment. Some kind of breaking would be nice for tight spots, but electric is all that's going to be available to you at a reasonable cost. Electric would be tuff to adapt to typical auto/pickup drums. Years ago they tinkered with hydraulic brakes for horse trailers and stock trailers. Maintenance nightmare. Always had leaks, always had air.
Reply:A very nice job. Obvious that a lot of planning went into its design.
Reply:I have rebuilt a old pop-up 3 years back and it was almost a complete rebuild. I modified it with a hitch, In order to pull a small boat behind it. Yes tandem towing and legal in Wisconsin with permit and "most states". The family and I did a 2000 miles camping trip that that year I finished it. I picked another for nothing after I rebuilt the 1st one, an old appleby camper. This with be a complete rebuild or build up because I lack the trailer. This will be built into an offroad pop-up. It can pop-out sideways and still be connected to the truck.   Just a suggestion and my point of view. If you are going to build a offroad trailer built one that you can at least have sleep in or on. I think to having a trailer that your gear stays dry and you sleep in a mud puddle is kind of pointless. Just my view.Like someone said here KISS method. I would go for 63" 2wd rear chevy leafs this will give ya most flex for the buck. Dan Attached ImagesLast edited by xccelagator; 10-01-2007 at 10:35 AM.My instructor said someone will catch on fire during class...He wasn't joking!!
Reply:Originally Posted by xccelagatorI have rebuilt a old pop-up 3 years back and it was almost a complete rebuild. I modified it with a hitch, In order to pull a small boat behind it. Yes tandem towing and legal in Wisconsin with permit and "most states". The family and I did a 2000 miles camping trip that that year I finished it. I picked another for nothing after I rebuilt the 1st one, an old appleby camper. This with be a complete rebuild or build up because I lack the trailer. This will be built into an offroad pop-up. It can pop-out sideways and still be connected to the truck.   Just a suggestion and my point of view. If you are going to build a offroad trailer built one that you can at least have sleep in or on. I think to having a trailer that your gear stays dry and you sleep in a mud puddle is kind of pointless. Just my view.Like someone said here KISS method. I would go for 63" 2wd rear chevy leafs this will give ya most flex for the buck. Dan
Reply:Sorry about that. Webshots is kind of lacks linking pics. Here is a link to the main page.http://community.webshots.com/user/x...host=communityDanMy instructor said someone will catch on fire during class...He wasn't joking!!