alternative to Spoolmate 30a soopgun

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Ok,I just used a friends Spoolmate 30a.Feel like I should of had one a long time ago.So? Any options out there that are not quite as spendy but will run the same heat?This would be run off a TrailBlazer 300 working aluminum 1/8 up to what ever is practical.Might even run a little stainless, 1/2" or so.Thanks for any help here.Mac
Reply:MK makes an excellent spool gun, the Prince XL.www.mkproducts.com/Prod_sub_SpoolGuns.htmMM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Well.....The 30A is one of those things that is often imitated, but never duplicated.IMHO, the BEST spoolgun on the market today.The Miller Spoolmatic 3 will run plug & play off your TB machine, but is inferior to the 30A in a few areas.
Reply:I would assume Steve is referring to the size and weight of the SM-3.  It's bulkier and weighs a bit more when compared to the 30A.I ran a SM-3 on my MM200 until I traded it to a member who needed a SM-3 for his MM200 but had the SM-1 that my first generation machine would run.  The SM-3 served me well and worked flawlessly.  We do have 30As at work and I do wonder if they'll be around as long as the more rugged SM-3.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Since I am totally new to spoolguns, I shouldn't really notice the difference.  I think I may go for it.  What are you thoughts on the price?  It looks to be in good condition, they have good feedback and the internals look clean.
Reply:Since I have your attention, could you take a look at the listing?  It appears that the plastic is still on the spools, I can see a sticker over the wire, like it has shrink wrap on it.http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ht_1381wt_1139
Reply:Did I loose my technical support team?
Reply:I need something and I search craigslist often, the only thing I can find is no where near me, over 500 miles away.  Ebay has been hit or miss, the prices have been high or the unit is not working.  I was going to buy a new one from HTP, but this seems like a good deal.  The HTP ones are almost double the price, but I get a warranty and 50' of cable.  I guess my last questions would be will this take .045 wire and does anyone know if it will hook up directly to a shopmaster 300?  Thanks again and hope dinner was good!
Reply:the 30a is the best gun out thereits like a B52 just a good design Attached Images
Reply:Good to go on a direct connect to the Shopmaster 300 14-pin receptacle.I agree with Steve in that with the wire and flow meter the starting price woudl be a decent deal.  And the SM-3 has a flex neck to boot in lieu of the standard rigid.Let's hope no one jumps in now seeing as you posted the link. Good luck!MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:The SM-3 has a dual groove drive wheel that covers .030 thru 1/16".  One liner covers .030 thru .045/.047 with one for 1/16" and each wire size required its own contact tube.[ATTACH]55302[/ATTACH Attached ImagesSpoolmatic 3 Feeder Parts.pdf (71.6 KB, 40 views)MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Here's the manual for the unit pictured in the ad http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1212c_mil.pdf but for some reason the gun parts chart in here doesn't show anything in the 1/16" column of the gun parts chart (Table 4-1) yet the parts break-down lists the 1/16" components. You can see the dual groove drive wheel in ad photo #3.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Don't buy an HTP gun.It's a rebadged CK gun & is a fragile piece of junk.I have had two of them with Lincoln & Snap On's names on them, neither I felt were anything compared to even Miller's older guns.Go for that SM 3, it seems fair enough.One thing I have found tho is that if you take your time & really look around, you'll find what you want & get it for what you want to pay.Yes, you can run .045 with that gun. May have to get a different drive wheel tho. It will directly hook up to your machine as well.
Reply:The reason I spent more money to get the 30A and WC24 for my MM200 was that the sm1 gun that directly connects to my mig is obsolete, I mean that if I end up with a newer mig (if mine ever dies) the 30a will plug right in while I don't know for sure if the sm1 gun could ever be used with the newer migs.  I also was concerned that Miller at some point will no longer have parts or service for the sm1 gun.  As far as being capable of doing what I want, The sm1 gun would have been fine, cheaper to purchase and would probably last longer than me.Seems to me that the 30a offers the most options for the future."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:Thanks for the input, I ended up buying the Spoolmatic 3, it had some nice features and lots of wire.  I will let you guys know how it works when it arrives.
Reply:Ok, I got the spoolmatic 3 but I am having some trouble, I don't know if it is operator error or equipment malfunction.  I have the correct liner for .035 (teflon and a little oversized) as well as the correct tips for .035 (actual .052).  The wire .035 4043 aluminum is burning to the contact tips so bad, I am loosing contact tips left and right.  I keep thinking I have figured it out, but it does it again.  I have adjusted the tension all the way off (there is a detent on the threads, could be forced to go looser), because I saw some marks from the drive wheel.  I thought maybe these were contacting the inside of the tip and making it arc out before starting to actually weld.  This did not help, I tried tightening the tension, it did not help either.  I have voltage set at about 19 and gas flow is about 30 with wide open trigger.  I am on an older shopmaster 300 settings are on CV and I am direct connect with 14 pin.  I can weld, but every so often when I start the tip gets all melted.  I don't know if maybe I am not pulling the trigger all the way or something stupid like that, I have tried to pay attention to what is going on when it happens, but it is so random.  Sometimes it does it two times in a row, other times it won't happen for a couple of passes, but it will happen.  A few times I have been lucky and it just balls up on the tip, so I can pull it through and cut it off.  When I stop, should I spool out some wire and cut it off to have a fresh start?  I have cleaned with SS wire wheel and denatured alcohol.  How often do I have to clean it?  I am a total newbie welding aluminum on a new used spool gun, could this get any worse?
Reply:Do you have the SM-3 connected to CV (+)?What do you have the SM-3 wire feed speed set to?  If polarity is correct, it sounds like the WFS is too slow.Depending on material thickness, 19 volts may be too low as well but shouldn't be your present problem.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:As far as I can tell CV pos, RED side.  I have been between 4.5 and 6 on the wire feed, anything faster than that seems way too splattery (is that a word?).  I did not mess with the voltage of 19 too much, I am welding 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch. Attached Images
Reply:The other thing that I don't know for sure it the tips are held in by a collet like a dremel tool.  In order to have them just above my gas cup, they are barely in the collet, it feels strong, but I wasn't sure if it was creating a problem.  Miller ran down the tip part number and it matches.  The gas cup and flex head parts are a different story.  I can get some parts, but not many.
Reply:I know that you need 24 volts, my scale goes to over 30, should I not exceed 24?  I was kind of figuring that 19 was getting to the top of the heat range.
Reply:Try setting the arc control to zero.Move away from the work piece cut the wire of at the tip squeeze the trigger for 6 seconds and the measure the length of wire that fed out of the gun, multiply that times 10 and that will tell you your wire feed per speed minute.Miller has a clculator that will help you get started with the settings.http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...calculator.phpKen
Reply:I will do that, and get back to you.
Reply:250 inches per minute.  Looks like all my settings are way low, I will try and bring them up to millers suggested values.  Aluminum is new to me and I can see it has a learning curve.  What should my gas be set to?
Reply:100% argon on the shielding gas?You can pull the tip back inside the cone 1/8" to 1/4".Aluminum with MIG is a spray transfer process.  Sound will be a "hiss" almost like an air leak.  To achieve this you need 100% argon with voltage and wire speed.  For 1/8" to 1/4" I'm going to guess a voltage in the neighborhood of 24-26 volts and a wire feed speed of 8-9.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:250 ipm doesn't even get you close for al mig.You also will want to push your weld.You may want to watch the al video here kinda corny but it covers the basics and will give you an idea of spray sound and speed...if you haven't sprayed before its hot and fast. Once you start the arc you better get moving also notice the comment about stick out. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ur-skills/mig/I may get criticized for this but since al starts very cold i prefer to start then give a quick wip backwards before I start in my forward motion, but I also use a pulsed spray I don't know how well that will work with a straight spray. KenI have 100% argon.  What setting should the gas flow be at?  i have it about 30 right now.  What type of pattern do I use, My buddy told me to pull the gun in and out or up and down, depending on how you look at it.  Also when welding on a vertical surface, what direction do I use, I am assuming downward due to the spray.  I did not really now that it was a spray transfer, now I do.
Reply:Your tips are too big if you're using .052 tips with .035 wire.  Use either .035 or .039 tips, no bigger, with .035 wire.  .052 tips are for use with 3/64's wire.The gun trigger switch is not a variable 'speed' device.  It's a switch that's either on or off.  Once the trigger makes contact, you don't accomplish anything more by squeezing it harder.  There is a mechanical portion of the trigger (at least on XR/Spoolmatic 15/30 A/W guns anyways) that opens the gas valve.  The trigger opens the gas valve just before it makes electrical contact.   If you squeeze the trigger just barely, you can hear the gas hiss out, without energizing the wire (nor arc).  Pull it just slightly more, it makes contact and you're 'welding'.  Any more than that, you're just giving it a death grip and wasting finger strength.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by StroutyI have 100% argon.  What setting should the gas flow be at?  i have it about 30 right now.  What type of pattern do I use, My buddy told me to pull the gun in and out or up and down, depending on how you look at it.  Also when welding on a vertical surface, what direction do I use, I am assuming downward due to the spray.  I did not really now that it was a spray transfer, now I do.
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33Your tips are too big if you're using .052 tips with .035 wire.  Use either .035 or .039 tips, no bigger, with .035 wire.
Reply:Yes, aluminum wire does swell with the heat.  Yes, SLIGHTLY oversized tips are commonly used with aluminum (though I often use .035 tips with .035 aluminum wire and they work fine on light material).  Yes, I am aware of MK's tip markings.   However, .052 tips with .035 wire is TOO big and most likely the cause of your wire to tip arcing and melting problem, provided you're just not simply using too much voltage and/or not enough wire speed, or that you don't have some other feed problem like slipping drive rolls.  Also, tightening down the drive rolls too much can crush the wire, changing it's round shape, causing it not to want to go through the tip, which could be why you're trying to use those too large tips to get the deformed wire through.  Use light drive roll tension and only slightly oversized tips (.039) and it should feed fine.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:I watched the Miller video and it showed how to set the wire feed tension.  I think mine is right, but I will try the way they show it.  I did notice it was distorting or knurling the wire with too much tension, that is why I backed it off.  The tips I am using are miller PN 135430 confirmed by miller, they say .035 AL & .052 ID contact tip.  I have one contact tip that is .030/41, so I guess I will try that first.  Why would miller make the contact tube so oversized if it can cause this problem?
Reply:DesertRider33 I tried the smaller tip, .030/.041 and it would jam before I could even get it installed.  I went back to the .035/.052 and turned the voltage up to 23.  I will try some more welding in a bit and report back.  Thanks.
Reply:If the tip measures .041 and your so-called .035 wire wouldn't go through the tip at all, then you have a problem with your wire, or tips.  Either the wire is mis-marked, or mis-manufactured, or the tips are.  .035 wire WILL go through .041 tips, no question about it.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:OK so 5:00 comes along and I don't feel like working anymore for the day and decide to quench my curiosity about this tip / wire size discussion. I pull out two aluminum wires both labeled .035 and one flux-cored labeled .045 ( didn't have any solid .045)....one standard short circuit .035 tip and two .035 spray tips stamped as .044 and .045 id. Both of the .035 wires fit the standard .035 tip snugly until they get past the end and any bent parts then it slides freely on the wires. They are slightly freer on the .spray tips. Then I try the .045 wire on the .044 and .045 id tips and no go. The wire is visibly to big for both tips, when I put the wire up to the tip hole I can see that it is just to large for the tip. Out come the calipers and I measure the wires, both .035 al wires come in at .032 and the flux-cored comes in at .042. Obviously if a tip was .035 and a wire was .035 there would be to much friction for the wire to freely feed through the tip and that wouldn't work..so the industry must compensate for that in the production but use the same size labels for simplicity. But with the .045 wire not fitting the .035 spray tips I don't think that they can be .045 as stamped but probably closer to .039 or .040.I'm to anal for my own good.Ken
Reply:I ended up going through 20 contact tips so I could get the truck body tack welded together enough to get it to my buddy's shop and welder.  His welder worked flawlessly and I can weld aluminum pretty well.  His spool gun had a different wire in it.  It was a little bit bigger and a lot stiffer.  I opened up one of my new wire spools and it was stiffer too.  I took a look at the wire that was in my spoolmatic 3 and it was softer than the new wire.  I looked at the packaging and the part number is the same, but the wire is different.  I think it may be the problem, but I can't check until tomorrow.  So do they make a softer 4043 that would have the same part number?  I don't have any of the info in front of me, but I will get it Monday.  The SM3 came with a spool of this soft wire installed when it arrived, we thought maybe the wire was contaminated, so we changed it.  If you bend this "soft" wire it wrinkles in multiple locations not just where you bend it.  Basically anywhere you touch the wire leaves a dimple.  Why thought is that if you put any strain on the wire, when welding, it dimples, then when that dimple reaches the tip, it arcs and causes my problem.