Watch your step! Check these steps out.

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Got a check (down payment) in the mail a few weeks ago.  It had been so long, I had forgotten I had even written a proposal.  I thought I was saved from doing this job.Here is what I started with:The following shows the tread width is actually only 8 inch.  The tread plate is 10 inch which is still no code for most high volume stairs.The following is the final product.  I remounted the old rail even though the pitch did not match.  Perhaps I will get the rail job, also.This was the first of two I did for this apartment complex. The first was fairly easy since I scrapped everything.  Much of the stuff fell apart.  Most of the time was spent trying to be safe.  It took only about 8 hours to remove and install the new steps.  The lay out of the steps took about 1 hour, done on a prior day.  Priming with a roller took about 1 hour.  It took about two weeks of planning the best and safest way to attack the problem. I will try to get the second loaded, I was having problems getting it loaded.Last edited by tapwelder; 11-14-2007 at 12:52 AM.
Reply:Nice job, each set will be easier.  Hope you get the railing job too. DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:tap - u are da' man when it comes to steps! i'd like to try my hand at a set of those circular roundy round steps for my house or big shop. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Very good!   What is the new tread and rise now?City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:The pitch was 6.5/10The is the last tread of the originals platform.  I had planned on having my stringers miss it, however when I trimmed the end of the stringer it ended at the edge of the concrete.  I could have added the end back on, though the was a gap between the last tread and bottom concrete pad of about 2 inches.  Ironically, the original steps had a similar gap and was left.You can see the stringer at the top of the photo.I debated on changing the pitch or adding a tails.  The difference was "6 of one half dozen of the other".I chose to add a tail and push the steps forward over the concrete pad.Here is how I got the tailThe projected platform line is where platform would be-in this case one riser high.  The 10 inches line is the width of my header or channel attaching to the stringer. The 10 inch line is drawn vertical relative the pitched steps. The Horizontal line is drawn from the end of the 10 inch line th the edge of the stringer. The cut here line goes from the vertical/channel edge to the horzontal/channel edge.  Cut along the Cut here line.  Do both stringer and swap the drop ends to make the tails.  Hope y'all can follow this.  The vertical and horzontal came form my framing square that was already set up for preparing the stringers.The existing cut was a splice to increase the length of the channel.  Finally, I added the post on the outside of the existing post. I didn't remove the existing post.  I also added a post underneath the header on the other side.  My goal was to make the steps free standing. The original header was not supported on the inside.  I thought when I first looked at the job there would be a header pocketed into the wall.  I didn't expect to use it because of the rust deterioration. However, I was suprised to find two short lag bolts in soft wood being the only inside support.Last edited by tapwelder; 11-17-2007 at 12:36 AM.