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Need to borrow a Mag Dril

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发表于 2021-9-1 00:25:19 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Hi:I'm almost done with a welding vise fixture that attaches to my table. I need to drill 4 horizontal holes 5/8" diameter through the square tubing of the legs. The tubing is 2.5 " and the holes will be thru holes.I uploaded pictures of the fixture and the table leg.Does anyone live close to Riverside, Southern California who'd be willing to let me use their Mag Drill and 5/8 bit?I've called the rental yards around here and no one rents them . I'd be happy to pay for the time and trouble . I guess it'd only take the time to set up and drill the holes plus travel.Anyway let me know if you can help please.ThanksJon Attached Images
Reply:A mag drill would be nice for that, but it's not necessary.  Any low-rpm drill will go through that very easily.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Jack is correct, I am assuming you know how to drill a 5/8" hole with a HD 1/2" drill, I am sure someone nearby will read your post and be able to help you out.If that doesn't happen and you really need a mag drill, then I recommend you inquire at most welding shops or any shop that does frame work on heavy trucks, they should have a drill and bit they could lend or rent to you.  If you can bring your workbench to their shop in the back of a p/u truck or on a trailer and the holes laid out and center punched, they may drill it for you while you wait.Also try any steel erecting company, they are sure to have a "Hougen" drill which is a special mag drill for drilling holes in structural steel.  It uses special annular cutters and 5/8" is a very common size.Last edited by norite; 10-30-2010 at 08:29 PM."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:Just get one of those bits that look like a tapered reamer. The local bolt and screw store sells them for drilling through truck frame. Somebody help me out the correct name.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:Originally Posted by tresiJust get one of those bits that look like a tapered reamer. The local bolt and screw store sells them for drilling through truck frame. Somebody help me out the correct name.
Reply:How 'bout that thing under the bench with a red and green hose?Won't that drill a tidy 5/8" hole?
Reply:Originally Posted by welderShaneStep bit
Reply:Bridge reamer .... Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by jsfabBridge reamer ....
Reply:I have a Mag drill....but as mentioned I don't think that you really need it for that job.http://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:Originally Posted by jsfabBridge reamer ....
Reply:Using any 1/2-inch drill and 3 new bits you can buy at any Home Depot, mark and center punch the hole locations, drill a pilot hole with a 1/8" bit, then drill an intermediate hole with a 3/8" bit, then drill a final hole with a 1/2" bit, grind the sharp edges of the hole smooth, done.  No mag drill needed.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33Using any 1/2-inch drill and 3 new bits you can buy at any Home Depot, mark and center punch the hole locations, drill a pilot hole with a 1/8" bit, then drill an intermediate hole with a 3/8" bit, then drill a final hole with a 1/2" bit, grind the sharp edges of the hole smooth, done.  No mag drill needed.
Reply:That's e z....DSW  add the 1/8 hole an the 1/2 hole bingo you got it. just dont add the 3/8 hole cause it will be way to big.In the words of the great philosopher Quagmire.Gigedy Gigedy Gigedy Gigidey Goo.
Reply:One of my favorite cheapo Harbor Freight purchases was a $39 low-rpm drill.  Even with their cheap bits, it goes through steel very easily.  It's the higher rpms of typical drills that causes so much heat and immediately dulls the bit.Here's a hole going into my 1"-thick bench top.  First, the cheap drill:Then the pilot hole:Then, the 1/2" hole:Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:I think I get it. It's not about making holes, it's about getting them perpendicular and concentric. Once again, a mag drill is not needed. Measure with your calibrated eyeballs and a real good tape measure, or scale. Center punch first, once on each side. I assume you are drilling all the way through both sides.  If so, then make independant pilot holes, one from each side. Then just step up bit sizes to 5/8" in increments.A 2" ball mount for a truck reciever is done by hand this way for the hitch pin. Well, I do them this way anywho. Does that make any sense?City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepHow 'bout that thing under the bench with a red and green hose?Won't that drill a tidy 5/8" hole?
Reply:Are these 5/8" holes being used to bolt the table together, because those welds don't look too great?I'd love to have a quarter for every 5/8" hole I've drilled in 1/2"+ steel using a HD 1/2" drill and a 5/8" bit.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Thanks for your help all! I see there is no need to use a mag drill. That's a relief.I think I'll buy a drill bushing from McMaster, sit it in a block machined for parallel and perpendicularity, and use my 1/2 inch drill motor. Best of luck to all,Jon
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenOne of my favorite cheapo Harbor Freight purchases was a $39 low-rpm drill.  Even with their cheap bits, it goes through steel very easily.  It's the higher rpms of typical drills that causes so much heat and immediately dulls the bit.Here's a hole going into my 1"-thick bench top.  First, the cheap drill:Then the pilot hole:Then, the 1/2" hole:
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33Using any 1/2-inch drill and 3 new bits you can buy at any Home Depot, mark and center punch the hole locations, drill a pilot hole with a 1/8" bit, then drill an intermediate hole with a 3/8" bit, then drill a final hole with a 1/2" bit, grind the sharp edges of the hole smooth, done.  No mag drill needed.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWDR how do you get a 5/8" hole with a 1/2" bit? Hole stretcher? Sorry I couldn't resist!
Reply:Originally Posted by psientThanks DRJon
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33The ATF is cheap and easy to buy just about anywhere, is easy to clean off and works good.
Reply:As a small caution you may want to see if you can verify the location of that internal bead (flash) when drilling through holes on tubing. If when drilling from one side to the other and the bit happens to catch that raised bead on the far side it can cause some problems at times. It'll make small bits drift to the side, chip the cutting edge on larger bits, popping and snapping and so-on. All problems can be solved as long as you know what they are ahead of time. There's four sides to that tubing but Murphy will put that bead right smack in the way every time."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore RooseveltOriginally Posted by SandyAs a small caution you may want to see if you can verify the location of that internal bead (flash) when drilling through holes on tubing. There's four sides to that tubing but Murphy will put that bead right smack in the way every time.
Reply:Originally Posted by psientI milled the mounting fixture on my Bridgeport and it's fairly accurate (within .005 on all axes). I don't want to lose the precision (such as it is) when I mount the thing. The vise's base I machined  has a lip that catches the underside of the welding table. I'm trying to mount it within .05 of parallel. The slots on the mounting bracket will allow the vise to be elevated above the table while still holding level. That was the original impetus to keep the bolt placement accurate.
Reply:It's worth checking the location of the seam on the inside.  But even if it's close to where you're drilling, a pilot hole should keep the bit from drifting off center.  Just go slow and keep the drill lined up.  If it looks like it's still drifting, then go in from the other side.And like others have said, keep the RPMs low.  One bit will do plenty of holes in mild steel unless you let it cook once.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenOne of my favorite cheapo Harbor Freight purchases was a $39 low-rpm drill.  Even with their cheap bits, it goes through steel very easily.  It's the higher rpms of typical drills that causes so much heat and immediately dulls the bit.
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