Best Rod to learn with

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Hey all.  I purchased a Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 off of ebay for $248.52 and I am going to pick it up this afternoon.  I feel like I got a pretty good deal because the cheapest I have seen them around here is $411.00.  Anyway, I was wondering what would be a good rod to start with so that I can learn the basics.  Any help will be greatly appreciated because I have no clue were to start, I am just anxious to learn stick welding.  Thanks for you help.RushRush
Reply:1/8 6013 should get you lkearning with minimum frustration.7018AC will drive a beginner nuts because of its restart characteristics, as well as the safe start reduced voltage on some of the new machines designed to frustrate damn lawyers.Appreciation Gains You Recognition-
Reply:There is a thread about 6013 technique that may be helpful.http://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread...highlight=6013It is a very easy rod to learn with and quite forgiving. I would suggest trying other rod types as well, after you can lay a decent bead with '13. With DC, try 6010, on AC try 6011. These are useful rods for less than pristine metal and for awkward positions. Different technique is needed than with '13-- 6010 is truly angery at the arc.
Reply:Just a personal preference, but I'd start with 6013, or 6011 with AC. I'll get some flack for this, but if you learn on AC. then DC will seem like you went to heaven. I learned with a lincoln "Buzz Box" many many years ago when I was a kid. My son started with my "Craftsman Buzz box". When He took welding in school, he was ahead of the game using a DC machine.
Reply:I have trouble with 6011 on ac I haven't worked on it much but it is different than dc. Are there any tips?
Reply:I learned on E7024 in flat. VERY easy to start, cuts down on over all cussin and stomping.I jumped to 6010 and 6011 after that, then 7018.
Reply:6011An iron  powder E6011 electrode.Low spatter,smooth arc.Deep penetration. X-ray quality weld metal.General all-purpose electrode-Maintance welding-Galvanized steel work-Light sheet metal fabrication-Welding through paint,mill scale or rust-Construction and shipbuilding!!  AC,DC+    This should be the rod u use for almost anything u need hope this helps!!
Reply:I recommend 6013 to start with.  They work well with straight or reverse polarity and have good restarts when doing short welds or runs.7014 is a good rod to start with as well.  You can sort of drag it and make a decent looking weld while you learn to control arc length, and speed.Also easier to learn while running in DC.Here in the Great White NorthMosquitoes can't fly at 40 below
Reply:Originally posted by fla jim Just a personal preference, but I'd start with 6013, or 6011 with AC. I'll get some flack for this, but if you learn on AC. then DC will seem like you went to heaven. I learned with a lincoln "Buzz Box" many many years ago when I was a kid. My son started with my "Craftsman Buzz box". When He took welding in school, he was ahead of the game using a DC machine.
Reply:Bigbamak5- thought you might like to hear from someone closer to your experience level. I started on an ac machine and 6011 and it's a good rod but I tried 6013 and really liked it, smooth good looking welds which are encouraging to a beginner. 6013 doesn't penetrate as well as 6011 but hell, I ain't building ships!"All that is required for evil to triumph is that good men do nothing"
Reply:...I ain't building ships!
Reply:that 225 lincoln is gonna work a helluva lot better on AC than on DC [in my experience] i started my kid out on the 11`s...as JIM and others have said, less splatter,more penetration... learn on this rod and everything else will be a "walk in the park"!it never hurts to look,unless they`r WELDING!
Reply:2 things,, if a weld isnt going to take stress then what is it for?  Also,, why would that machine work better on AC than DC?www.urkafarms.com
Reply:dumb question here, is 7018 ac only?? i only have dc stick mode, and haven't burned but a few 6013 rods myself..StangnetShop Full Of Stuff. Joey
Reply:started with a craftsman ac , backyard with my Dad building horsetrailers. 45yrs later(slow learner) come to the conclusion that a puddle is a puddle whether ac,dc or rc cokeacola. It's all in the operator and how they manipulate the rod. My "new" stick mach. is a linc. tombstone 250 which is alot like yoursThe only time it's ever on ac anymore is by mistake. Personally I start out newbees with 6010pluss dc reverse. Show them how to start the rod on a flat plate with just stringers. When they can run a whole rod most all the time, then start showing them how to manipulate the rod to get the desired puddle shape whether it be drag,push,whip, or some type of ossilation. I feel that 6010pluss 1/8 is just about the handiest rod to start newbee's on.    revpol
Reply:7018 is dc rod they make a 7018 for ac but its really not to good!!!!
Reply:I'll have to toss antoher vote in for 6013 (I like Lincoln rod, hell, even WalMart sells it!), and 7014 (they sell it too!).  With just a handful of rods and some decent stock to practice on, you'll be amazing yourself in no time!  Stay away from anything that'll be pulled or driven on the highway, hang overhead, or hold pressure until you really get good.  Enjoy!!At the Lake
Reply:I'll cast my vote for 6011.   1/8" runs beautifully for me at about 90 amps a.c.   As a beginner,  you probably won't be too happy with the looks of your beads.   It's true that 6013 gives nicer looking beads, but if you learn on 6011 (or even 5P+, on d.c.), you will have an easier time learning the basics, and ALL rods will, eventually run easier for you !I'll be the LAST one to let you down !
Reply:P.S. . . . . .(just read back to Fla. Jim & Franz).........Put me on their team ! . . .  I agree with them in that "If you can weld out-of-position with a.c.,  you can weld !"I practiced out of position welding using 6011 on a.c.,   and when I actually got to the point to where I could do it,  it dawned on me that I was using a.c. !Never laughed so hard in my damn life !Beware of people out there who will tell you that you have to use d.c. to weld out of position........tell them they're full of $hit !I'll be the LAST one to let you down !
Reply:1911,  Well I ain't built a ship but I had to keep a few together at sea and even one in a "warm" zone.My vote is for 60111) relatively inexpensive.2) AC is a good choice to learn on, then try DC eletrode positive (or reverse polarity for us old farts)3) Start on flat plate.4) Then horizontal5) The vertical up (6011 is an uphill rod)6) Then try overhead.And when you feel real good......7) Franz, you think the 1800 lbs on the trike front was ballsy.  On the way over to Desert Storm we caught the back side of a Typhoon in the South China Sea.  Ended up with a 24 in crack in a JP-5 fuel tank.  Me and my buddy Rob Richardson spent 2 hours welding that one up.  First, we tried welding it with the tank full first to minimize the explosion hazard but the leaking jet fuel was playing hell with the welding and us catching on fire got old fast.  So we talked with the oil king and CHENG and decided to drop the level in the tank below the crack and purge the tank with nitrogen.  Well we got it welded but the CO decided to put us at General Quarters just in case.  Due to the pucker factor on that job I don't think I **** for a week.PS Warm = wasn't combat, wasn't hot, but we were damned busy.Originally posted by 1911Man Bigbamak5- thought you might like to hear from someone closer to your experience level. I started on an ac machine and 6011 and it's a good rod but I tried 6013 and really liked it, smooth good looking welds which are encouraging to a beginner. 6013 doesn't penetrate as well as 6011 but hell, I ain't building ships!
Reply:My humble opinion, shade tree, is that 6011 can be run up OR down.    I'll be the LAST one to let you down !
Reply:I've tried it down, you loose a lot of the penetration (my opinion) running down hill and it is usually the penetration you are looking for when running 6011.  But yes, I will agree, it is an up or down rod.Ron ShopFloorTalk Millermatic 350P, M-25, M-40 gunsDynasty 300DX, Coolmate 3, Crafter CS-310 TorchTrailblazer 302, 12RC, WC-2430A spoolgunSpectrum 2050Thermal Arc Plasma Welder PS-3000/WC-100B
Reply:"Franz, you think the 1800 lbs on the trike front was ballsy. On the way over to Desert Storm we caught the back side of a Typhoon in the South China Sea. Ended up with a 24 in crack in a JP-5 fuel tank. Me and my buddy Rob Richardson spent 2 hours welding that one up. First, we tried welding it with the tank full first to minimize the explosion hazard but the leaking jet fuel was playing hell with the welding and us catching on fire got old fast. So we talked with the oil king and CHENG and decided to drop the level in the tank below the crack and purge the tank with nitrogen. Well we got it welded but the CO decided to put us at General Quarters just in case. Due to the pucker factor on that job I don't think I **** for a week.PS Warm = wasn't combat, wasn't hot, but we were damned busy."So, why the hell didn't you think of pulling a vacuum on the tank?SUCKING is a vastly underrated concept that can solve a load of problems, and with a big enough suck pump, it will stop oil from running out of a crack.Appreciation Gains You Recognition-
Reply:Franz, Acouple of problems with vacuums on shipboard tanks. As an "Alumni" of the Navy "POL" of school, I've seen pictures of structural damage from fuel tanks that had plugged vents, while fuel was pumped from them. Shipboard oil pumps were at the time I was in mostly positive displacement screw pumps, and would draw a hell of a vacuum.
Reply:i have always gotten best results with 7024 and 7018, never did much of the 60 series rod and 7018ac never gave me any problems, go and pick up a few diffrent 5lb boxes of rods and do your own experments..only you will be able to tell what works best for you !dawgFranz,Jim hit it on the head.  We did think of it but I was an internal storage tank; internal meaning not part of the hull structure but placed inside the hull.  Thus not as strong as a hull tank (as were the DFM {diesel fuel marine} tanks) The pumps were vane type positive displacement.  And we could not figure out a way to control the vacuum with out colapsing the tank nor did we know how much vacuum the tank could handle.  In addition we kept the JP-5 service tanks pretty full, so not much room to put the fuel we had to pump out to maintain vacuum.  Also to add confusion.  The pump room and the tanks were not colocated in the same space.Originally posted by fla jim Franz, Acouple of problems with vacuums on shipboard tanks. As an "Alumni" of the Navy "POL" of school, I've seen pictures of structural damage from fuel tanks that had plugged vents, while fuel was pumped from them. Shipboard oil pumps were at the time I was in mostly positive displacement screw pumps, and would draw a hell of a vacuum.
Reply:Jp5 service tanks, was that for an "EDG", or for aviation fuel?
Reply:JP-5 was there mainly for the Helo, SH-3F.  The only diesels on my ship was the motor whale boat, Captain's Gig, and the four portable fire fighting pump (P-250's).  I was on a Spruance (DD-986; I think you called them targets, lmao).  All gas turbines (four GE's for main propulsion, 3 allison's for electrical power and steam) no diesel generators.Ron ShopFloorTalk Millermatic 350P, M-25, M-40 gunsDynasty 300DX, Coolmate 3, Crafter CS-310 TorchTrailblazer 302, 12RC, WC-2430A spoolgunSpectrum 2050Thermal Arc Plasma Welder PS-3000/WC-100B