Some TIG pics.. getting the hang of it or fooling myself?

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Hi guys.  I've spent probably about 8 hours playing around with my TA 185 and finally have some pictures I'm not embarrased to share.Background: Mostly 16ga mild steel (1" RHS), 1/16" red (zirconated?) tungsten, 1/16" filler, 65-70amps (mostly at 70).Last night was my second TIG welding session, and I think I had two major breakthroughs:- I realized how critically important torch angle is (in all 3 dimensions)- I started watching the back of the puddle as it froze--this really seems to have helped me with the consistency of my "ripples"I'm still having trouble adding a consistent amount of filler though.  I think this will come with time.  Compared to my earlier welds at least these ones have a little buildup instead of being completely convex.Without further adue, the pictures:
Reply:The metal in those pictures looks really dirty--it was clean when I was welding but it did sit in my garage overnight, which will make anything dirty.Also, gas flow was 15CFH of pure argon.  The welds aren't wire brushed or anything, they're exactly as they were when I stopped welding.The nasty "bulbs" at the end of some of the welds were due to trying to avoid craters.  I was trying to add filler as I slowly ramped off the foot pedal but it always ended up sticking as the puddle froze.I found that if I just let off the pedal slowly the craters APPEAR to go away.  Do they really or am I fooling myself?Any criticism is welcome, but remember this was only the 3rd time I've ever picked up a TIG torch (and the first time was a single bead, about 10 seconds worth of experience).
Reply:JonB,Looks like your doing pretty good. The only criticisms that I can offer are the welds look kind of cold and the ripples are a little too far apart. These are just my opinion as my welds when first learning to tig were similar to yours here. How did you clean the metal? The only reason I ask is that I see some blackness at the edge of your HAZ and some inclusions that look like there was some oil on the metal. Wirebrushing to clean metal is important but cleaning with acetone is more important as it strips the oil from the metal. After laying down a tig bead with absolutely clean metal all you should see is a bead and a nice even HAZ that looks like a rainbow of color. On the matter of the craters, they are left when breaking the arc too rapidly with the puddle still molten. You are correct in backing off the pedal slowly allowing the puddle to cool. The only criticism here is to not add filler as you are backing off the pedal as a little mountain will form or as you have found out the filler will stick. Keep up the practice, it is looking good!! It took me about a 6 months of constant practice to feel comfortable with it.TiggerAaronHTP Invertig 201w/ CK-20 torch and Bernard ChillerHTP MicroCut 300 plasma cutterLincoln R3S-325 w/ TA 17A Wire FeederVictor Super Range II O/A kitClausing/Colchester 13X40 LatheBridgeport 9X42 Mill
Reply:Thanks for the criticism, Aaron.I only wire wheeled the metal, no wipe down with Acetone.  I'll be sure to do so the next time I'm out welding (I never ate my veggies either).Just curious, but what makes you say the welds look "cold"?  I've certainly got plenty of power to spare so cranking up the amperage a little is no problem--I just don't know what to look for to tell me I'm too hot or cold (aside from gaping holes in the metal or the inability to get a puddle going).
Reply:On the second photo down and the last half of that bead is cold. You can tell that by noticing that the ripples sit up very proudly like they are marbles on the surface of the metal. A good example of the way a good tig bead should look like is in the sixth photo down, on the middle bead. The first 9 or 10 ripples look real good and without looking at the back of the weld look to have good penetration. On this same photo the last half of that middle bead is too hot. You can tell this by noticing that the ripples are real wide and have a flat surface with little or no buildup. As you progress you will start to notice how the puddle looks when it is too cold, just right and too hot and vary the amperage accordingly as you lay down the bead. You will get it, it just takes time and patience. Most importantly, read the puddle, this is what makes the weld.TiggerAaronHTP Invertig 201w/ CK-20 torch and Bernard ChillerHTP MicroCut 300 plasma cutterLincoln R3S-325 w/ TA 17A Wire FeederVictor Super Range II O/A kitClausing/Colchester 13X40 LatheBridgeport 9X42 Mill