Any tips on filling gaps.

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I'm starting my welding table and when one of the legs didn't come out square I ground off the weld and used a zip wheel to cut it loose so I can square it.  I haven't welded it yet because the rain stopped my work, but I thought I'd use this opportunity to ask if there are any tips on filling loose joints.  I know how to do it brazing, but up till now most of my welding joints have been pretty tight fitting.  This gap will be about 1/16" and I will be using either a 6011 or 7018 rod.   A couple of the welds I did on this project so far didn't come out that well and I'm trying to figure out what the inconsistency is.  I started out with the 7018 which worked well and made a really pretty bead on the flat practice piece, but it was hit and miss on the joints. I then switched to the 6011, but it burned through in a couple of places so I'm wondering which rod is best for the filling. The material is 2" angle 1/4" thick welded to 1/8 angle.  Any help appreciated.  SteveLincoln Pro Mig 180Everlast PowerARC 200
Reply:ive always found that the cellulosic rods fill better for the simple fact that they have a faster freezing puddle. you dont need to run the cellulosic rods at the same amperage that you run the 7018's at. matter of fact, i run 5p 1/8's around 95 to 100 amps... the longer you arc and the longer you pause, the deeper they dig tho, so, whip the rod out and "scoop" the melted metal back into the puddle and pause just long enough to let the puddle width catch up, then whip back out and repeat process.... hope that ive helpedmigweld 250parcmate 205weldall 250piforcecut 80i plasma'07 pro 300 miller'08 trailblazer 302mm350pdynasty 700dynasty 200deltaweld 452xr-a 50ft push pull feeders and gooseneck
Reply:6011 indeed. Bring those amps down in the range on the box label. Then practice.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:try 3/32 6011 at 60 amps for a start. focus the arc on the thick metal and let the puddle leak over to the thinner metal. you dont have to fill the hole all at once..move around so you dont melt through..
Reply:Thanks for the advice; I'll try to get out there again today.  SteveLincoln Pro Mig 180Everlast PowerARC 200
Reply:If you have a large gap due to improper fitup, there's a pretty handy way to keep the gap from "shrinking" as it's filled.Wedge something (chisel or screwdriver) in the gap to hold it apart while tacking.Make a tack.  Doesn't matter what it looks like, it'll be ground down later before the final pass or first pass.Then take the screwdriver out and place it somewhere else along the joint and tack again.The series of tacks will hold the joint from contracting while the final welding is done.  This keeps you from having an ill fitted and unsquare mess when done Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Always try to get a better fit up.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:The fit I had when I welded it was good, however my square slipped and I didn't notice it until I had finished welding the leg to the frame.  I always try to have as little gap as possible, however I asked this question because I know there will be times when the gap is bigger than desirable and filling gaps is a skill worthy of having.  Thanks for the tips.Lincoln Pro Mig 180Everlast PowerARC 200
Reply:Whipping in and out or in a deep "U" motion works with the bottom of the "U" where you are filling.  6010 and 6011 are your friends.   If it is a large gap you can use a welding rod with the flux knocked off as a filler rod.  It is sort of like TIG welding with a stick and adding filler material to the puddle.  This is a real crappy way to weld but sometimes it is the only way.  You are welding up a table not a frame for launching missiles.  If you ever are able to score a chunk of copper buss bar do not lose it.  You often can hold the copper bar behind the gap and run your bead on top.  The weld will not stick to the copper and the copper is a chill bar taking away excessive heat.  Look for a piece about six inches long and at least 3/8 inch thick.   Having to weld up your own fitting will make you resourceful...  And more careful next time you fit..Last edited by lotechman; 02-10-2011 at 05:06 PM.
Reply:Hey Steve, 1/16 isn't much of a gap at all.  Maybe go with a smaller rod like 3/32 and run lower amps.  That fit up isn't bad at all.  Ralph
Reply:Thanks for all the tips.  The weather is so cold down here (at least for us thin blooded Louisiana people) that I decided to use the MIG welder with flux core for the rest of the welding table since I could do it inside with just a vent fan.  It filled just fine using many of the techniques you guys provided.  I think the major culprit is my lack of stick welding skills!  Anyway, I'll be starting a new thread "another welding table" with pictures.  Steve.Lincoln Pro Mig 180Everlast PowerARC 200
Reply:sometimes i'll fill a gap with mig wire or tig filler rod, it helps to keep stuff from pulling around on you as much..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:I used to bust the coating off my electrode and pack the gap....Hammer electrode to desired thickness and tack. it...Figure it was best to have same composition of filler wire in gap...
Reply:Originally Posted by stevenstiltsThanks for all the tips.  The weather is so cold down here (at least for us thin blooded Louisiana people) that I decided to use the MIG welder with flux core for the rest of the welding table since I could do it inside with just a vent fan.  It filled just fine using many of the techniques you guys provided.  I think the major culprit is my lack of stick welding skills!  Anyway, I'll be starting a new thread "another welding table" with pictures.  Steve.