Attempting to make an anvil

admin

This is one of my first projects.  I've messed with my torch cutting small things but I had this piece of track laying around and wanted to try my luck at making an anvil.  Seems like a good idea since I don't have one.  Bear with me, I'm new at this metal working stuff so things my look a bit rough, I'm a better grinder than cutter.  Any input from the more experienced people would be appreciated at any time.  I'll post more pics later, hopefully. Attached ImagesMolongneckLincoln 175HD MigWard's Powr-Kraft 230 ARCHypertherm Powermax 45Harris O/A TorchMakita 2414NB Chop SawMakita 9557PB 4 1/2" Angle GrinderClarke BT 1002 6" Brench GrinderRyobi DP 120 12" Drill Press
Reply:My first suggestion is to get rid of them sneakers and investing in a good set of leather steel tip work boots. You'll find out real quick you can flip them shoes off when some of them cuttings melt them shoes to your foot. Probably won't feel real good when you drop that anvil on your foot either. At least you are not wearing shorts.As for the cutting work, a little crude but at least you got it to cut. What are your regulators set at? What size tip is that? Were you trying to push the cut or pull it? How far away were you holding the flame? Kinda looks like you need more practice time on manipulating your cuts. Nothing some more practice can't cure. Looks like your flame could use some adjustment as wellLast edited by dabar39; 08-12-2008 at 08:12 PM.Reason: spellingI am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:I agree on the shoes.  I set out to start on this by getting my pants on, long socks, long sleeve shirt, and a hat.  When I posted the pics I realized I had forgotten one important piece of safety clothing, the boots.  I had my welding gloves on and the goggles that came with the torch outfit as well.  I always try to cover all safety aspects, the shoes. . . . . no excuses (head in A**).I had my O set at 40 and my A set at 10 using a # 2 tip.  I guess the technique I used was pushing, which wasn't successful in one pass.  Tip distance is something I was paying extra close attention to so I can get it figured out, still working on that one.  The flame, I'm open for suggestions.  Thanks.MolongneckLincoln 175HD MigWard's Powr-Kraft 230 ARCHypertherm Powermax 45Harris O/A TorchMakita 2414NB Chop SawMakita 9557PB 4 1/2" Angle GrinderClarke BT 1002 6" Brench GrinderRyobi DP 120 12" Drill Press
Reply:Your first lesson with those shoes will be when you step on one of those glowing red chunks. You won't be able to get it off quick enough. Hind site advice but I would have cut the arch out of the web first. No biggy, you're getting there.
Reply:Is your torch new and did it come with specifications that tell what tip size to use for what range of cut, and give pressure settings also? Does it tell/do you know how to adjust the flame properly? I believe all that came with my Harris but that was 40 years ago and mine was new. I'd expect 40 pages of warnings and all today.I would have undercut the point first, that is, removed the web below so it wouldn't interfere with the down cut at all. Was someone else taking the photo while you actually welded, or is it a posed shot after the fact? The red glow indicates the former.
Reply:Here is a picture of what it's supposed to look like. This is one I made about 25 yrs. ago for an old farmer down the road. Sorry about the quality as it is a digital pic. of a 35mm pic. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by BobHere is a picture of what it's supposed to look like. This is one I made about 25 yrs. ago for an old farmer down the road. Sorry about the quality as it is a digital pic. of a 35mm pic.
Reply:Molongneck,I think you were close, the cut is mostly severed and shows  good blow through.The flame adjustment looks about right for the job, pressure settings sound right.But if photo #2 were the actual cutting, the torch would be too far from the work, and there's no cutting jet visible.I would say mostly a steadier torch head and more consistent travel speed would do it.For that cut I would probably rest my gloved hand on the rail, pinky finger down, then steady the torch tubes between thumb and index finger as I pull the torch through the cut with the tip probably no more than 3/8" above the work.I  sometimes make a rough cut about ½ inch away from the final cut line, and then make a final cut on the line. This preheats the metal, burns away crud and leaves just a thin peel to final cut. The thin peel makes it easier to watch both heat in the cut, and blow out progress at the bottom; both are factors in making slight torch speed and height adjustments to maintain a clean square cut.Easier done than said!There are plenty of cutting threads to search on here.Practice practice practiceGood LuckLast edited by denrep; 08-13-2008 at 02:01 AM.
Reply:Denrep,That is probably one of the best descriptions I have read in a long time. Thanks.Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:When cutting thick steel keep your tip perpendicular to the plate. If you tilt ahead any at all make it no more than 5 degrees. O/A settings and tip size were correct for the thickness. The best advice is get comfortable and don't rush yourself. I try to avoid pushing or pulling the torch whenever I can. You get smoother cuts by getting out to the side and following the line. I go so far as to set up spare jacks to rest on. Make sure you start with a good clean cutting tip. It makes all the difference in the world on thick stuff.Getting good with a torch is the same as getting good at welding. Practice, practice, practice.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:metalwebnews.com has an article/instructions onmaking an anvil, good info on hardfacing etc.
Reply:Thanks for the pics!
Reply:Have you seen this homemade 275lb. anvil?http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/anvil1/anvil2.html-Matt------------------------------------------
Reply:Originally Posted by Fred Paul JonesThanks for the pics!
Reply:i agree with every thing posted here.  i would add that a clean tip is my top priority.  if you don't have a tight cutting stream then it is worthless.