pipe welding problem

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I'm having trouble producing a decent weld when going from 6 o'clock to 9 o'clock in the 5G position.I can only manage to get an inch or two welded before the puddle sags out. I've tried adjusting my travel speed and amperage but still cant manage to get a good bead down.  Any suggestions?6" sch 40 steel1/8th 7018 @ 115 amps
Reply:Try 3/32 7018 @ 90-95 amps, easier to control for me!LarryMiller XMT 304 CC/CVSyncrowave 180 SDLincoln PowerMig 255XTTermalDynamics 52Lincoln 305GComlpete machine shop to back it up
Reply:Are you having trouble with the root or the cap? If it's the root I had trouble too with 1/8 on sch 40, and then switched to 3/32.  You might try 3/32 around 75-80 amps with a 1/16 gap and nickel land. It worked for me, but everyone is different.
Reply:Agreed Larry. Smaller wire with less heat. Maybe even down around 78-85 for 3/32 7018. Check your rod angle as well and make suer you are as comfortable as possible.'Mike
Reply:Yea this is for the cap.  I'm not sure if I have 3/32 at work, any ideas on how I can get the 1/8 to work?
Reply:Maybe let the pipe cool some before capping.
Reply:yes, cool the pipe before the cap.might want to turn down the amps 5 or 10 for a try. only on the cap.G
Reply:I used 1/8 over the summer when I was doing a lot of bench welding.  The amps I set at was about 100.  I found out that a hot 3/32 was a mild 1/8.  Also I was rotating the pipe so I never encountered going below 9 oclock position.  If you're starting at bottom, once you get the arc started, back the heat off and slightly weave the rod.  (Heat will build quickly so that's the reason to weave)  Travel speed will have to be pretty quick.  A remote would also be very helpful as manipulating your heat is key using 1/8 on pipe.  Good luck.
Reply:Originally Posted by ryanYea this is for the cap.  I'm not sure if I have 3/32 at work, any ideas on how I can get the 1/8 to work?
Reply:If you metal is sagging your arc length isn't right or your rod angle isn't right, heat should be a problem as long and your keeping the rod where it needs to be. I believe in hot, fast and tight (just like I like me women, lol :P).
Reply:What kind of machine are you useing? Are your rods comeing straight from an oven? If you are using a machine with an arc force control, turn it up. You can put your amperage so low the rod sticks ( like 95 amps) and turn up the arc force so it wont stick anymore. this way you will find more control. I used to only use the rods in the specified parameters, but after when i learned to weld pipe it just doesnt work very good. Another thing I do is i dont weave it like an uphand (building a shelf and riding it up), I pause and fill at a differnt moment, i skip ahead a little further and let the metal flow back into place, its hard to explain, but it fills beautfully with no undercut and a nice 1/8th reinforcement, If i can think of anything else or if I think I can explain better ill come back to this.Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:More amps and faster movement....Maybe around 125-130.You'll be freaking rolling with 1/8th and sched. 40 6".Is everyone else doing it w/ 1/8th"?If so, pick their brains?And if it's @ work and the company will not furnish the 3/32nd you need I'd buy my own to make sure I do a good job and don't get run off. Or make them get me what I need. Personally, I'm uncomfortable with the 1/8th on the smaller pipe.I like 3/32nd @ 94 for the cap...So damn hot it just curls up..... Stomp the boot on the ground and no chipping hammer or brush needed.Then break out that file and make er pretty Last edited by jsm11; 01-26-2011 at 12:29 AM.1981 Lincoln SA 200Miller Trailblazer 302gMiller 211 Mig Welder w/ AutosetI'm learning to stick metal together
Reply:And this likely goes without saying......If your coming from the bottom up I'd assume you have that electrode folded in 1/2 over the stinger to give yourself better control?Bossman / inspectors may not like it.....But, they aren;t doing it.1981 Lincoln SA 200Miller Trailblazer 302gMiller 211 Mig Welder w/ AutosetI'm learning to stick metal together
Reply:Originally Posted by SR20steveIf you metal is sagging your arc length isn't right or your rod angle isn't right, heat should be a problem as long and your keeping the rod where it needs to be. I believe in hot, fast and tight (just like I like me women, lol :P).
Reply:i got a hold of some 3/32 7018.  going from 6 to 9 was very easy with this rod, my first pass came out nice and flat. jsm- what is this "1/2 bent electrode" you speak of?  i usually just keep the electrode 90* from the stinger.  also if you weld "hot" will this cause the slag to peel up with no hammering needed?i'm using a lincoln 175, and my rods do not come out of an oven.  we do virtually no stick welding at work so my boss has not (and most likely will not) invested in one.
Reply:I would say arc gap too long, the arc force is what keeps the puddle in there. Agree with 3/32, so much nicer to cap with, 1/8 is fine, its just gonna be wider. I would also allow pipe too cool in between fill and cap. Its only sch 40, 1/8 is gonna heat it up pretty quick. I practice 5G very often, its the hardest position for me, 2G and 6G are relatively easy. 5G your over head much longer than 6G, and you need to move slower on bottom, say 6-9 oclock, 6-3. tight arc, and slow movement, let the metal get back in there... My goal is to have my bottom weave caps, look exactly like my top caps, getting there, but skilled eyes point out the undercut on the bottom Im getting....Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:Man, I just got my D1.1 on 6" last spring, but just reading through all of these different responses Im even feeling confused. Bottom line you need to eventually develop your own method and then STICK WITH IT.  To many people make the mistake of trying 50 different methods and fail to perfect even one of them.  You might not be comfortable with what you are doing but eventually you need to make a decision to stick with it.For me?  I run about 110-115 after the root and pretty much leave it there.  If anything I turn it up as I move on to ensure I'm getting a good tie in and not rolling any slag.  Arc force all the way down to 0-1 as xx18 wire tends to like this the best.To me if your puddle is falling out with those amps its because your moving to fast and not building enough of a shelf before you try and move on.  Having weld metal fall out because your moving to slow is actually harder to do than one might think, you really need to get a big puddle going.  Slow down and add a little manipulation to grow a shelf and I bet it will run much better.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:omg! 1/8 coming off the bottom?? yes its gonna sagg, too much heat in too small of an area, try weaving the rod more! you have to get to where the joint can handle the heat and by possibly stepping the rod out of the weld area a scant bit it will help. i know lots of pipefitter welders who cant do this, so dont feel like the lone ranger on it.
Reply:It takes alot of experience to control 1/8" rods, use the 3/32" around 87 amps and keep your arc as close and tight as possible and don't move too slow. Its like putting in a hot pass ( tighter arc-little more heat- and little more speed)
Reply:Whatever amperage your using on 3 o clock till 12 o clock position take 15 to 20 amps off for the 6 o clock to 3 o'clock position. Gravity and fluidity of the hot weld puddle is make it sag so lower amperage for that postion will help. Also as suggested let the pipe cool a little and come out just a hair farther with the toe of your weld. I use 1/8" on 3" and above so I know it can be done everytime. Just keep practicing you'll get it.