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As subject states, does anyone have a guildeline or graph giving general recommendations? I looked on Millers site and can't find anything. I'm not new to welding but still a novice with TIG. I'm having a rough time on mild steel, 16 gauge, with a 3/32 tungsten with 1/8th rod. Also, the Miller site/guidelines say to use a pointed tip, ground lengthwise, for mild steel. However, they show a picture with the tungsten ground to almost a point but it shows a blunt end at the tip...not sure why? Link: step 5: prepare tungsten>http://www.millerwelds.com/education...ips/setup.htmlThanks in advance!
Reply:in all reality the sharper the better....1/8 filler on 16 guage? you would want around 3/32 maybe 1/16 ...heat around 80-120 amps straight argon (footpedal?)if at any point you touch the tungeston to the piece STOP and regrind..maybe have 3 or 4 ready to go before you startpractice practice practice ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I'd try to use 1/16 rod. 1/8 is way too much. And try the amperage in the 60-75 range to start.You'll burn through a lot less.
Reply:they are right, better a small filler rod, remember if it's twice the diameter , like 1/8 is twice the dia. of 1/16 , then a drop of the 1/8 has 4 times volume of a drop of 1/16th. I hope i am making this example clear. and i found a good way to make a point on tungsten. put a short piece in an electric drill and spin it while grinding it. obviously, it won't work, if you're trying to sharpen an.040 or .020 tungsten, they break TOO easily.'course you old tiggers already know all this .
Reply:Thanks for the advice fellas. I think I may be wrong on size, I'll have to look. Right now I have 3 sizes for mild steel. Heck, maybe I'll just take a pic. I don't have trouble with burn through, getting the tungsten stuck or sharpening, it's just my welds don't turn out consistant one way, pushing right to left, versus pulling down...as in around a pipe. My pull down welds look way better than the right to left. When I sharpen, I leave one wheel (with caution sign) dedicated to grinding tungsten only on my bench grinder. Then I "pre-roll" the tungsten between my fingers, if you will...and then roll it one full circle (long way) to make a nice tip. I will double check the rod size and even take a pic. I'm just too dang picky and want all my welds looking uniform and nice. Oh....I have a foot pedal.
Reply:MZ - miller makes some slide-charts that contain a lot of useful TIG information. Basically, they list various metal types (stainless, copper, etc), and based on the thickness of the material and the type of weld (butt, corner, etc), the chart then recommends tungsten type, size, cup size, gas flow, and amperage.If you want, I'll get you the miller part number off of the chart. I find it very useful informationRegards,Scott
Reply:Scott - that would be great. I've seen something similar on their site...but it doesn't list tungsten size.
Reply:I'll hop on the 4 wheeler and run over the the barn and get the part number. Have it posted in about 10 minutes. Scott
Reply:OK - here's the skinny. Miller part number 171080 (may be 171086 - couldn't tell for sure) Called the TIG Calculator. It has recommendations, based upon the base metal type and thickness, for: Tungsten size, cup size, riller rod diameter, type of current (AC, DC, etc), amperage, gast type, gas cfm, gas psi, and remarks (such as 2 passes, preheat metal, etc).Hope this helps.Scott
Reply:for $25 you can get the student pack that will include the tig and mig calculators. The tig manual, and some other manuals. There is also a free jacket coupon if you buy a Miller welder. ( select models )DennisThermal Arc 185-TSWMillermatic Challenger 172VictorO/AAtlas Craftsman 12 by 24 LatheEsab PCM-875Wholesalem Tool Mill-Drill
Reply:Thank you Scott....and Tailshaft. I'm going to scout the Miller site again tomorrow. I thought for sure one of their pages listed some stuff.
Reply:Well, I found nothing on Millers site. Here is a pic of the 3 types of rod I currently have for my TIG:Sizes are: 1/16th, 3/32nd and 1/8th. The 1/16th seems too small to join 2 pieces of 16 gauage pipe...maybe I just need more practice? Attached ImagesLast edited by MicroZone; 05-13-2006 at 01:40 AM.
Reply:MZ - I use these same rods with my TIG.Here are the settings from my TIG calculator for 16ga (1/16") stainless steel. (Unfortunately, the calculator does not list mild steel, so stainless is what I usually use as a starting reference)Butt joint: 1/16" tungsten, 1/4 - 3/8" cup orfice, 1/16" filler rod, AC current, 60 - 80 amps, argon gas, 15 cfm, 20psi, 12" per minute weld speed.Lap joint: 1/16" tungsten, 1/4 - 3/8" cup orfice, 1/16" filler rod, AC current, 70 - 90 amps, argon gas, 15 cfm, 20psi, 10" per minute weld speed.Corner joint: 1/16" tungsten, 1/4 - 3/8" cup orfice, 1/16" filler rod, AC current, 60 - 80 amps, argon gas, 15 cfm, 20psi, 12" per minute weld speed.Fillet joint: 1/16" tungsten, 1/4 - 3/8" cup orfice, 1/16" filler rod, AC current, 70-90 amps, argon gas, 15 cfm, 20psi, 10" per minute weld speed.Hope this helps. Also, the calculators are not listed on Miller's web site - you have to go through a welding dealer to get one.Regards,Scott
Reply:Scott, Thanks a bunch for sharing the information. I'm sure it will help, it sounds very close to the settings i'm currently using. I guess more practice is in store. I'll post some pics of my beads.
Reply:Originally Posted by scsmith42MZ - I use these same rods with my TIG.Here are the settings from my TIG calculator for 16ga (1/16") stainless steel. (Unfortunately, the calculator does not list mild steel, so stainless is what I usually use as a starting reference)Butt joint: 1/16" tungsten, 1/4 - 3/8" cup orfice, 1/16" filler rod, AC current, 60 - 80 amps, argon gas, 15 cfm, 20psi, 12" per minute weld speed.Lap joint: 1/16" tungsten, 1/4 - 3/8" cup orfice, 1/16" filler rod, AC current, 70 - 90 amps, argon gas, 15 cfm, 20psi, 10" per minute weld speed.Corner joint: 1/16" tungsten, 1/4 - 3/8" cup orfice, 1/16" filler rod, AC current, 60 - 80 amps, argon gas, 15 cfm, 20psi, 12" per minute weld speed.Fillet joint: 1/16" tungsten, 1/4 - 3/8" cup orfice, 1/16" filler rod, AC current, 70-90 amps, argon gas, 15 cfm, 20psi, 10" per minute weld speed.Hope this helps. Also, the calculators are not listed on Miller's web site - you have to go through a welding dealer to get one.Regards,Scott
Reply:Originally Posted by elderthewelderYou won't have very good results welding mild steel or stainless on AC. Think you may have been looking at the wrong line of the calculator
Reply:Hah - didn't even notice that until you mentioned it. Rest assured, I am welding mild steel on DCEN. John - fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!- bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Elder - you are indeed correct - I had inadvertently flipped it over to the aluminum side. Here's the stainless infoButt joint: 1/16" tungsten, 1/4 - 3/8" cup orfice, 1/16" filler rod, DC current, 50 - 80 amps, argon gas, 11 cfm, 20psi, 12" per minute weld speed.Lap joint: 1/16" tungsten, 1/4 - 3/8" cup orfice, 1/16" filler rod, DC current, 60 - 90 amps, argon gas, 11 cfm, 20psi, 10" per minute weld speed.Corner joint: 1/16" tungsten, 1/4 - 3/8" cup orfice, 1/16" filler rod, DC current, 50 - 80 amps, argon gas, 11 cfm, 20psi, 12" per minute weld speed.Fillet joint: 1/16" tungsten, 1/4 - 3/8" cup orfice, 1/16" filler rod, DC current, 60-90 amps, argon gas, 11 cfm, 20psi, 10" per minute weld speed.Sorry for the mix up - I should have thought that one through. Scott
Reply:Thanks for posting the other calcs. smith. John - fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!- bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:I use 3/32" tungsten for ALL uses, unless I'm welding hot enough that I have problems with it melting or balling up...in which case I bump up to 1/8".I agree that on material that thin, you will be better to use 1/16" filler. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:16:28