First welds tig welding, could use some tips.

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I ground the paint off of a bracket I had lying around and tried to lay a couple beads. Keep in mind this is my first time TIG welding so don't be too brutal.I was using 1/16" 2% tungsten with 1/16" filler rod (mild steel obviously) and the amperage was 60 on some and 80 on others. no foot pedal control. not sure what size the cup was, an 8 maybe? The metal was wirebrushed and cleaned with acetone after every weld.pics:You might not be able to tell much from these pictures, and the reverse side doesn't really tell you much at all because I didn't take the paint off off the backside. But if you can, does anyone have some tips for me?you can see that the welds near the top don't look like they've got any penetration to them, and I think they are the ones using 60 amps. The one closest to the bottom where you can see the heat in the metal was done with 80amp.To me it seems like the welds are sitting on top of the metal too much, like maybe I'm moving along too fast or something?Like I say this is my first time TIG welding ever, so I've got a lot to learn.let me know,thanksSky
Reply:From what I can see, they look ok.  The penetration issue is not apparent from the pictures, but if the welding heat didn't affect the paint on the back, you probably aren't getting quite the penetration you want...However, it sometimes is hard to tell how good the penetration is without cutting the part across the weld.  The metal may just be a bit thick for your tungsten size (you don't mention the thickness).  At 1/16th on the tungsten, you may want to up the amps a little but...just keep it under about 100 to 120 amps max.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:thanks for the tips, the paint did burn off the backside in the areas where I had welded, but once I get some scrap peices of metal and weld them together i'll cut them back apart again too check my penetration.thanks
Reply:try a 3/32 red end tungeston around 100 amps..no footpedal... bummer you have way more heat control that way...so as the piece gets hotter and hotter you have to go faster and faster......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:good info, I've got some 3/32 at my house, I'll try that with more amperage.thanks guys.
Reply:The tip angle on the tungsten is important to the penetration.  The sharper the included angle on the tip of the tungsten, the less penetration you will get.  Since you dont have a foot pedal, you can limit the amout of "acceleration" you'll have to do by increasing the tip angle.  Start with a 30 degree angle.  That will give good penetration, but if you find yourself having to fun too fast because of the heat buildup, change to a 45 or 60 degree angle and see how that goes for you.  On serious penetration stainless steel welds, I actually use a 3/32 dia. tungsten that's flat on the end, no grinding, and penetration is in excess of 1/8" at 200 to 260 amps.I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:On serious penetration stainless steel welds, I actually use a 3/32 dia. tungsten that's flat on the end, no grinding, and penetration is in excess of 1/8" at 200 to 260 amps.not in my shop... wrong..sorry if its not sharpend then the "flame path" can go anywhere and the heat is not concentrating where it belongs...anyone else use "flat end" tungeston??...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:i'll tell ya what...when i get the machine running i'm gonna try flat end tungestion on 3/8 316..then i'll do it with sharp end tungestion...i'll bet 10$ that i'll burn a hole thru the stainless in no time with the sharp end..and it will take all day with the flat end...you want penetration? ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:i agree with zap i use a point .  have used flat an flat tip ,,does  walk around the tung.
Reply:to me its the same thing with the "ball" when doing aluminum...if you get the "kings crown" ball when doing al (looks like a mace ball)..the arc is going out 3 or 4 diffrent "points" of origin..therefore they collide with themselves and nothing good becomes of it..i do not see how on earth flat tungestion works...its illogical......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.